• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help: Oil pump drive broken

S

Scribe

Husqvarna
C Class
The bike: 06 TE 610
The issue: I took the clutch cover off to replace some parts and discovered that one of the tangs on the end of the crankshaft that drives the oil pump had snapped off, putting a hole in the clutch cover housing in the process.

Right before I'm getting ready for a 1,000-mile plus ride. Fantastic.

The fix for this is to replace the crankshaft, I would assume. Awesome.

So my question is, can I safety operate this motorcycle with just one of the tangs intact? I have no idea how long it has already been operating like it was, but it was apparently still pumping oil as the engine didn't grenade.

PS: This sucks.
 
Honestly, I don't know if I'd take the risk. If you unknowingly lose your oil pump on that ride, you're in for a LOT more headache.
 
Any indication why the flange broke?

Don't know about their accessibility, Could you drill a hole through the pump tang and remaining flange and safety wire together?


EDIT. Nevermind, I see the thread on ADV.
 
I'm pretty sure the ear on the crank broke because I didn't line up the oil pump drive with the slot in the end of the crank before trying to tighten the bolts. Stupid, stupid, stupid. Learn from my mistake and make sure that cover goes on all the way before tightening the bolts. It should snug right up with only a light tap or two.

There was a guy on ADV who did the same thing and ran his bike with no problems on one crank ear, so that's my plan for now. I'll crack the banjo bolt on the line that goes to the head to make sure it's pumping oil. Honestly, the only problem I can see is that it might load that one crank ear too much, or that it would put lateral, rather than rotational, force on the oil pump drive shaft. But there are no bearings that oil pump, it's a pretty stout lobe design, so I'm gonna shop around for a crank and meanwhile hope for the best. (New crank from Hall's: $1,300.)

That's my sad tale.
 
Before I'd shell out $1,300 on a new crank I'd shop around for an expert welder. Looks like it should be possible especially since not high force on the ears.

_
 
That's what I'm going to do. I know a good fabricator so maybe he has a solution. If so, I'll post it up.
 
It may be weldable, but the best welder I know said forget it. It's hardened and you'd have to know a lot about the metal before attempting it.
 
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