• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help! Blowing main fuse

MorrisBetter

MorrisBetter

Husqvarna
AA Class
My 08 TE510 started blowing the main fuse (on top of the starter relay). I've recently added the Trail Tech DOT headlight kit, as well as a powered GPS mount.

I've looked at the wiring and everything looks kosher. I dressed the wiring behind the headlight to make more room, and I don't think there's a problem there.

The fuse blows when I press the starter button. The new headlight must draw more current that the stock unit. Could the light add enough current to blow the fuse.

I also saw an error code on the display, but it went away before I could read it.

I'll check the schematics when I get home, but I wanted to get this message posted up ASAP.
 
Is the headlight on when the key is switched on?
Does the headlight try to come on when the start button is pushed?

Sounds like to me there is a hot wire grounding to the ground circuit that grounds the handlebar, I think you have a bare wire/connection somewhere.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
Is the headlight on when the key is switched on?
Does the headlight try to come on when the start button is pushed?

Sounds like to me there is a hot wire grounding to the ground circuit that grounds the handlebar, I think you have a bare wire/connection somewhere.
Click to expand...

The low-beam is on with the switch on. This is normal if I remember correctly. The low-beam stays on when the starter is engaged. I don't remember if this is normal.

I've disconnected the headlight for now as a trouble-shooting step. The problem is that this is an intermittent problem, so I can't be sure it's the light until (if) the fuse blows again.


I did notice two things:
1) The schematic shows a 15A fuse in that position, and there's a 20 in holder. Hmmmmm.....

2) When looking at the headlight area harness. The new headlight presses against the harness that plugs into the bottom of the speedo/display unit. I think I can move the speedo up by moving the mount to the top of the bar risers and get the pressure off. I hope it's that simple. I'm headed for Death Valley in 8 days.
 
OK, another data point....

Without the headlight plugged in, the starter cranks _much_ more enthusiastically. Clearly the headlight is drawing a lot of current. Maybe too much for the fuse.
 
MorrisBetter said:
OK, another data point....

Without the headlight plugged in, the starter cranks _much_ more enthusiastically. Clearly the headlight is drawing a lot of current. Maybe too much for the fuse.
Click to expand...

My bike is far from stock, but I would think the headlight would be relayed to be off when key on/starter cranking and then pop on when current flows from stator.

My bike is wired so that NO headlight/day run light is on until I turn it on, so my starter has full power.
 
Your bike is EFI, right? Take a look at page M3 of the 08 manual (http://husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair_manuals but the quality of the wiring diagram is poor - its virtually identical to the one in the te310 2011 manual but some wire colours are different, i'm just downloading a 2010 510 manual tio see if its any better)

in the bottom left of the page are the dash clock, left switchgear and a depiction of a relay. The relay is fed with a brown/white carrying low amps 12 volts (sidelight circuit) when the key is turned on and and a brown/blue wire which the ECU connects to ground only when the engine is running.
On the high amp side of the relay a yellow and black wire brings power through a couple of fuses from the battery so it should be live all the time or at least when the ignition is on (engine not running)
When the ecu grounds the brown/blue, the relay activates sending power down green/yel into the switchgear which then distributes it to the relevant bulb

because you say the light is on with engine not running then either:
This relay is stuck
This relay is bypassed in some way
The ecu has some problem and grounds the blue/brown wire all the time

You'll find the relay under the petrol tank but it isnt certain which one it is; they all function the same and can be in any order, LHS or RHS, so use the wire colours to determine which is the correct relay

Turn on the ignition, observe the on-headlamp, pull the relay, check if the headlamp is still on - tests if the relay has been bypassed. I'd recommend putting that relay back in circuit and restoring any fuses to their proper values
If the light extinguishes, check the relay for continuity. When unplugged the conenctors that the brown/white and brown/blue wires connect to should show very low resistance and the other 2 (grn/yel + yel/blk) an infinite resistance (open). If either of these is not true the relay could be defective. temporarily substistute the fan relay and see if your lights behave properly
If still no joy, test the resistance between brown/blue wire and ground. with motor not running it should be very high. If it is low, the ecu is grounding the wire all the time.. or the wire has rubbed and come to ground itself. Igntion off, unplug ecu, test wire again.

let us know the results of the testing
 
OK, the problem is... The Trail Tech headlight is wired wrong.

I plugged the stock light back in and guess what.... The low-beam doesn't light when the bike isn't running. Neither does the high-beam. Put the Trail Tech headlight back on, and the low-beam light when the ignition switch is turned on.

The root cause is that low-beam is connected to the pin that is intended to power the little light that is in the side of the stock light. The little light does not switch off when the bike is not running.

What is that little light anyway? Parking light?

Anyway, I'll swap the pins in the plug tomorrow.

Thanks for all the effort you guys made.
 
City light (parking light)

MorrisBetter said:
OK, the problem is... The Trail Tech headlight is wired wrong.
I plugged the stock light back in and guess what.... The low-beam doesn't light when the bike isn't running.
Click to expand...

Now that sounds right.
The city light wire is what I used for my HID low beam so that it would stay on when I turn on my high beam, so they are both on at the same time. I wired an on/off switch so that I can manually turn the low beam on/off at any time, like at start up.
 
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