Been riding 6 years, a Ninja 250 -> Seca 2 -> SV650 -> DR250 -> TE630 Still have the SV but felt like i wanted to try out the supermoto side I was going to get a DRZ400 but this TE630 came up for $4000 with only 9000 miles on it... seemed like total steal Loving the thing so far, been "stage 0'ing" it basically since it's new to me but damn it's fun having that low end I thought SV was a boss ... this thing is nuts I've made accounts here and supermotojunkie - figure i'd like to get as much info as I can regarding a Super moto conversion for this bike. Assuming since a SM version exists this should be fairly painless right? Any other mods up front I should be considering to improve longevity or performance (or anything) ? Really impressed with Husky so far, whole bike is a feat of engineering compared to my big brand bikes...
Welcome and have fun. In terms of mods, outside of opening the bike up with airbox/pipe hanges and getting the fuelling right,it's all up to your preferences. A more comfortable seat seems to be a popular mod as well...
I haven't done the SM conversion on mine, but here's what I've done: Highway Dirtbikes Handguards Leo Vince Ti single exhaust JD Jetting Tuner Seat Concepts Seat OFG Racing Radiator Braces Uptite Skidplate TE510 Pegs (you can get aftermarket ones cheaper) 14 tooth front sprocket BRP Chain Guide Motion Pro LiteLoc Rim Locks That, and lots of miles. I have around 12,000 on mine, and bought it new. It has seen everything from dirt, mud, sand, snow, and even a tour of the Colorado mountains and a climb up Pikes Peak. Mileage is going up much much slower now that I've got a street bike to keep it company in the garage. You'll find that it takes a little more wrenching than your big box bikes to keep it up, but it's very easy to work on. Mechanically, at 9000 miles, the chain and sprockets are probably toast, unless they've been replaced already. You also might want to check the valve clearance in case the original owner never did. Some people have reported that the vent hose that runs from the engine into the backside of the airbox can pull loose. There are a couple of quick & easy fixes for that if you hunt around on the forum. Mine never had any problems. Some of the wiring harness runs down the frame right between the exhaust headers and is prone to melting. I noticed the outer insulation had melted off of mine when I installed my exhaust. I fixed it by wrapping it in some fabric heat shielding. I haven't had a problem with it since. If you don't have rim locks, get them. I ran without them for a long time, until I spun my front tire while braking on the road and ripped off my valve stem. It slammed me into the pavement at about 50 mph and I did a nice 20' slide down the street. The bike only cost me about $250 to replace everything that was damaged, but it took me a while to heal up. I miss my SV650:
I've got electronic versions of the Owner's Manual, Shop Manual, and Parts Catalog. If you want them, send me a PM and I'll hook you up.
Thanks for the input! I have the owners manual and a parts fiche - I could use the Shop Manual, sent you a PM. Checking out the rim locks immediately- don't want any of that jazz lol. Beautiful SV - Here's mine: And this guy: Really interested in the Airbox mod and the DIY Power Up resistor (i've done all sorts of DIY electrical stuff, Arduinos and what not, figure I could do this)
Engine: Power up resistor if it's not been done. Hole the airbox and remove the maze if it's not done already. Ibeat or JD tuner to tweak the fueling. Keep an eye on the clutch spring washers, the clutch hub bushing, and the oil pickup screens. All of this is well covered in other threads. Search. Wheels: Add a set of 17" rims. I got a used set of SM630 wheels for a decent price off a forum member. OR, If you can afford it, get a 17" rear wheel laced to a hub with a cush drive. It'll be much easier on the entire drive train. I hear SV wheels may be made to fit with some custom spacers?? Brakes: You'll want a rear brake disk (cheap ebay ones work here in my experience), and a front disk (cheap one's MAY NOT work here, i got a cheap unused one with the wheels, and it's slightly thicker than stock and rubbed the caliper/bracket slightly) If you use the SM630 disk you'll also need a caliper relocation bracket. If you use the TE disk, you'll have to drill out the mounting holes in the disk slightly as the screws securing it are slightly larger than the TE screws. With either you'll also need the speedo magnet. If you're not switching back and forth between TE/SM setup, just use the disks you have. I have no issue with the TE disk size on the SM wheels, but I'm not racing. Speedo: You're speedo will be out, and there is no way to calibrate it once it's been set to the TE wheel size, so you'll want a gps, another dash that is set for SM wheels, or replace the lot with a Vapor dash that can be changed. Suspension: Firm up the rebound/compression settings on the suspension from the factory recomended TE settings in the manual, experiment a bit until you like what you got. That's about all I can think of at the moment.
I can't believe I left out the Power Up kit. That is the first thing I'd do. If the previous owner knew their stuff, it's already done. Check to see if the O2 sensor is still plugged into the exhaust on the left side. If it is, check to see if the wire on the other end is plugged into the wiring harness. If both of those things are true, then the Power Up has not been installed. As mentioned above, the SM conversion will throw off your dash. You can get a second dash and set it up for SM wheels, or get an aftermarket setup. If you go with the OEM dash, and you buy a brand new one, they come uninitialized from the factory. When you first plug it into the bike and turn it on, you get ONE chance to set the wheel size setting. Once you set it, there's no changing it.
Brilliant info here- yeah i'm going to look at the PU resistor and airbox tweaks right away. I assume this shouldn't really require a modified / aftermarket exhaust? I figure it would help but not sure when i'll be updating that. As for the 17" wheels- I'm thinking about buying the Bare Bones kit from Motostrano - http://www.motostrano.com/Supermoto-Conversion-Kit-Bare-Bones-p/kit-bones.htm The tires on this thing are fried- I've ever seen dual sport tires so worn lol... I figure i'll be spending ~$300 on tires regardless so the kit including them seems reasonable. Couple other things- 1- I've noticed the bike a little hard to start in the mornings- even at 65F out... a quick tug on the starter lever fixes that- normal I assume? 2- I've found throttle VERY sensitive at low speeds- of course it's a big single and that's something to get used to - is there any trick to keeping the throttle "just barely cracked open" - engine braking is insane thing thing compared to my other bikes and i've had a little trouble managing my speed in city traffic.
The 630's are excellent bikes. Mine has about the same miles as yours. You will want to pull your clutch hub and inspect the spring cup washers. I suspect they are in need of replacement as mine were. Info on what I am talking about is here: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-debris-found-in-my-engine-610-630-clutch-issues.16604/
Reading that thread makes it seems like a lot of work had to go into replacing those cup washers- Is it possible to replace them without tearing the whole clutch apart / drilling rivets / re pressing it all back together? Edit- i've got a friend with a 20 ton press, just gotta figure the details of this project, and i'll check my clutch of course first
^ Yes it does seem like a lot of work, but sadly necessary for the 610/630 platform. My basket is currently at a good shop getting the cup washers replaced. He will be drilling out the rivets and installing new Indy Unlimited cup washers and reassembling with a 20 ton press. It should come out BETTER then from the factory. I will be putting up pictures in the other thread when I get it back next week.
Yeah i'm gonna pull it all apart in the next few months, currently working on getting my garage paved (well, part of it) getting a nice floor helps My friends dad has a 20 ton press, figure I'll check the condition of these cup washers and see about replacing them ... the bike hasn't been run hard as far a I know- but I want to make it last. My SV has 40k on it- surprised to see bigger projects like this required at 10k on the Husky but it just looks like one small thing they goofed up... any idea how long Indy Unlimited's cup washers will last?
My cup washers looked good at 8K miles but I did replace the basket bushing. I've accepted the fact that being big dirt bikes at heart, our Huskys are designed to dirt bike durability standards. It's a different design approach than street bikes. One of the guys on here put 50,000 miles (kilometers?) on his 610 before a major tear down, but that's prob pushing it. Any street bike will go twice that amount w/o needing anything if cared for. .
