TE/TC Handlebar rec for taller guys on TEs

I'm looking for new handlebars to replace the stock Nekens on my '15 TE300. I actually like the bars, but now that I've cut them down to accommodate our tight, woodsy trails around here, the clutch line interferes with my BRP handguard mounts. I need to move the clutch lever farther towards the middle, but I'm out of room as you can see. Anyone have good experiences with bars that are taller and/or with less sweep?

Get a clutch line made with a 20 degree bend on the end

That was my first inclination, actually. But the way the line is butted up against the bar mount, that's really not going to buy me that much room. The fat part of the clutch master just sticks out too far. Besides, I'd like to raise the bars a little and I'd rather not use risers. Thanks for the thought!

Not sure if they will solve the clutch line issue, but I put mini-hi bend bars on the 165 and like them. No need to cut them down, @ 4" rise and not much sweep on the Mika version. Just about every bar maker has the bend. Next set I'm looking for less center length, brake line nut contacts the bars when I rotate the lever down for standing.

Well, this might actually work after all! I was out riding yesterday and a friend pointed out that the handlebar mounts could be moved forward on the triple clamps. This doesn't change the relative position of the handlebar and mount, but moving them forward a bit allows me to rotate the bars back a bit which gave me just the clearance I needed. Woot!

Now, a slightly bent end might be just the ticket since the end of the line gets bent downward by the handguard mounts. Is there anything off-the-shelf I could use or do I have to have something custom made?

Protaper makes a KTM high bend nearly identical to the neken. My 2015 300 xc-w actually came with protapers stock.

whatever you choose don't forget to maintain the Peg/seat/ handlebar triangle standard form.
1" higher bars = 1" higher seat. the ape hanger handlebar setting that I see many dirt guys end up with, screws up the chassis balance..... and yes use the maximum adjustability of the bar setting

Well, I think I have it solved. I'm SUPER happy with where the bars and clutch lever are now. (I feel foolish saying this after so many years of riding, but I really didn't expect to be that sensitive to where the controls are.) It's made a huge difference. I ordered a Galfer clutch line with 90 degree bends on both ends, and it moves the hose completely out of the way of the handguard mounts:

https://slavensracing.com/shop/clutch-linehose-kit-ktm-husaberg-gas-gas/

I'm having a hell of a time bleeding it, but that's another story.

Bleed it with a short length of clear plastic hose on the end of a common BBQ/meat injection/Veterinarian clear plastic syringe. Should be able to get one about 1 inch in diameter at any Tractor supply, feed store, saddle shop, Walmart's kitchen/cooking section, etc.

First remove the fluid reservoir cap on the master cylinder and level the perch as necessary of course on the bars. Then just fill the syringe with fluid directly from the bottle, hold it up right and vertical to push out any air bubbles then carefully connect it to the bleed nipple as you loosen the bleeder and pressure bleed it with fluid from the slave cylinder back up to the lever. This takes about 5 minutes. It could take hours doing it by hand from the lever down if you have had the hose off.

Yeah - I found a video on this method this AM and tried it. Made a bit of a mess, but it was SO fast. I'll never go back to the old method for sure. Cheers!

I recently used this old school style oiler to bleed the clutch on my Beta 525, it was a lot easier to handle then a syringe. I put a length clear hose on the end of it to attach to the bleed nipple. With the can, I am able to hold the hose firm on the bleed nipple with one hand, and pump the oil can with the other. Works like a charm and not too messy.