Gearbox Woes?? Not sure

Discussion in '610/630' started by huskyte610e, Mar 9, 2009.

  1. huskyte610e Husqvarna
    B Class

    I'm having infrequent issues when dropping from 3rd gear down to 2nd gear.
    ie: it wont drop down to 2nd, even with a heavy push.
    I can get it by going up one, then down two.
    It seems to be more regular when the engine is warm, but does not happen at very gear change.
    As best i can tell, the old issue with the woodruff key was only on early 06 models, and would have caused obvious other noises first.
    I'm thinking it may be the oil.
    I used to have trouble finding neutral on my 04 610, until i found a suitable oil that worked.
    Could it be oil?, and if so, any reccomendations of oild choice/specs?
    Alternatively, could this be something else?
    2007 Te-610

    David
  2. Fritzcoinc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Cypress, Texas
    2000 model here. No probs. 3rd to 2nd but much prob. getting netural while at full stop.
    Anybody got a suggestion?
    Or, whats the trick?
  3. Thorton98 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Michigan
    Had the neutral finding problem. I put a Barnett clutch cable on mine. 100% improvement. 20/50 Spectro oil, 10/40 when it's really cold. Never had the problem with 3rd to 2nd. (knock on wood!) 3500+ on the odo.
  4. Fritzcoinc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Cypress, Texas
    A post on ADV suggest reducing the slack adjustment in the clutch cable to nill. When I read this I remember that I noticed more problem finding neutral after adjusting slack to spec. Is there an adjustment for the clutch linkage inside the case like other bikes?
  5. jerbear610 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Sacramento,CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    14' WR300, 11' TE511, 06'TE610 sold
    Other Motorcycles:
    11' Husaberg FE570, 15' Beta 300RR
    I haven't had problems downshifting between 3rd
    and 2nd as you describe but I have had instances when
    riding off road and have tried going from 2nd to 3rd or even 3rd to 4th and have hit neutral. It always seems to happen at the worst time like when I'm hillclimbing
    or goin through water or need to lift the front wheel off the ground to clear a rock or log or bump. I have had
    the not being able to find neutral at a stop light issue
    as well but have found that when I coming to a red
    light I can usually tap the lever when down shifting
    between 2nd and 1st and find it that way.
    As far as oil goes I've used the Motul Synthetic 15w50
    and the Moterex Synth 15-50 or 10w50 can't remember exact viscosity but liked them both.
    I also was told that a Barnett clutch cable would remidy that. One of these days hopefully soon I'm going to replace my clutch cable and I'll let you know
    if it solves the little shifting quirks on my 06' te610
    Jerry
  6. Fritzcoinc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Cypress, Texas
    There is an adjustment procedure in the service manual for the clutch linkage between the lever on the engine and the throw out bearing. See page D25. Anybody got a short version of this? It looks like you pull the csae clutch cover and adj. the clutch accuating rod to make a dimension from the clutch cable lever to the clutch cable mount on the engine. Am I close on this?
  7. Flying Trash Can Sustaining Member

    Location:
    So. Cal
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE 610
    Other Motorcycles:
    BMW R1100R

    I had the exact same problem with my 2007. I switched to Spectro Golden and it went away until the oil got dirty. Now that I have a couple of 3k miles on the bike it stopped giving me trouble completely.
  8. roost Husqvarna
    B Class

    Location:
    USA
    Just some thoughts; clutch cables wear, long before they break...it might be time to replace it, and then you've a decent spare one with you, for when you NEED it! The Motion Pro Terminator (aka 'T-2') cables are another good option...the inner sheath liner slides real nice=less pull. Clutch adjustment is something which also wears...how old is the bike? As your clutch wears over time (very gradually), it does come out of adjustment, meaning it doesn't disengage the clutch completely, which WILL make it difficult to find neutral (also can hurt the gear shift dogs)...Long ago, at a shop, we learned the advantages of some syn-blend oils, like Spectro Gold, for making transmissions shift better (really works well on older Goldwings?). Anyways, I think any good syn-blend will help, particularly in an older design gearbox, like a 610 (I'm assuming this one's similar to my old '93 610?)...I've had very good experiences with Rotella 'SYN' ...about $18.00 at wallyworld...a good value!
  9. huskyte610e Husqvarna
    B Class

    Bike Model: 2007
    Miles Travelled: 206 :confused:
    Clutch Cable Age: Replaced on Sat.

    ... spoke to the dealer.
    Said put a few more miles on it then see how the gearbox loosens up.

    (Note: Story to come regarding why the Miles Travelled. Will keep you posted)
  10. Fritzcoinc Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Cypress, Texas
    My prob. solved, 2000 Te

    Well, the dimensions in my owners manual for the clutch lever free play adjustment are wrong. Instead of .120" to .2" ( thats inches ) it should be 1.2 MM to 2mm.
    I adjusted the lever to about 1.5MM and was able to find net. without problem.
    I was not having any other shifting probs. besides finding net. at a full stop.