Fork seal replacement

I need to replace the seals on the bike (1983 250WR) and need to order the fork cap tool and a seal driver. However the battery in the digital caliper is dead. So rather than drive to the store and get a battery and measure myself, thought I'd ask here:

What size is the fork cap so I can order the correct tool to remove it without screwing it up. 36mm? 37mm? I can't recall and of course can't get a good measurement with a tape.

What size seal drivers do I need, if any?

I have a bearing driver that has about 6 or 8 different size drivers. I just flip them over and use the flat side for seals. If I don't have the right size I just use a socket. I think 1 1/4 " works for the cap but I'm not sure. SO I'm probably not much help.

37mm according to HVA Factory who sell a tool for the cap.

I drive my seals in using a handy piece of plastic pipe from a plumbing job!

same here

I have one of those old fashioned calipers with numbers on, no problem with batteries!

Got the caps off and reassembling

Do I just tap this bushing thing into place? The seal then sits on those two washers.

Anyone?

More and more views but no one knows?

I'm no expert on these forks but the exploded parts list doesn't show the part in our photo. Maybe that's why you haven't received a response to your latest question. Wish I could be more helpful.

That is not a correct item. The fork is supposed to have 2 seals installed. I suspect someone used a spacer and just fitted a single seal. Build it up as per the OEM with twin seals.

So drive the bushing thing (under the washers in the photo), drive in a seal, then drive in another seal, and skip those two washers?

I think I got it:

I used 39x52x11 seal, removed those spacer washers and it fit with the retaining ring. One seal in each as they are thicker than stock.

2 x 2 forks seals
40 x 52 x 10.5
is good ??

I think the (2) 40 x 52 x 10.5 is better than using the 1 39 ID seal My opinion is that the tighter seal will wear faster from the increased friction

i use a single kawasaki seal 39 52 - 11. i usually use the old seal upside down to knock them in. (its not ideal but always works) i usually get them out by the butchers screw driver method levering on the edge of the slider (with a wooden piece to avoid damaging the edge of the slider). a good wack down on the screwdriver with the edge under the lower seal edge usually flips them out... again, not ideal but i have been doing this for 40 years with no drama or failures.

make sure you have new top out washers. Dont tighten the lower allen head until the fork tube is fully bottomed in the slider with no springs. this centres the damping cone.

Same, sick of flat batteries and broken lenses.