1. Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

Fork seal replacement

Discussion in 'Vintage/Left Kickers' started by Motoduc84, Mar 19, 2012.

  1. Motoduc84 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Nebraska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1982 250 WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    Duc MTS 620, Yam SR500, Suz RM 125B
    My new (to me) '82 125 WR is seeping by the seals. Rats! It's been a while, but I remember this being a miserable job.

    I remember reading that Honda replacement seals were better than OEM Husqvarna, but that was for the the 70's models. Any input? Plus, could probably use a little refresher on how to do this.

    Thanks.
  2. visiteur1948 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    france Europe
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    husqvarna only
    hi to France !
    no honda ,no suzuki ....!
    spy double lips !
    ( lip x 2 )
    total 2 x 2 spy joint !
    and after no problèm !
    40 or 35 mm !:)
  3. visiteur1948 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    france Europe
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    husqvarna only
  4. smadams68 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Nixa, MO USA
    The most difficult thing is holding the Aluminum dampening rod during disassembly and assembly. Here is my take. Just loosen the bolt on the very bottom of each fork leg with impact gun (hopefully the bolt will loosen and not spin the dampening rod). Loosen and remove the top collar caps on each fork while still snug in triple clamps. Drain Oil and completely remove the bolt on the bottom of the fork legs. Remove forks from triple clamps, remove spring sets, dampening rod, and pull upper fork body out from lower body. Remove the large dome shaped washer at the very bottom of the lower fork. Clean and flush, and change out top out washer on dampening rod. Pry fork seals out with something like a tire iron. Clean everything up, lightly lubricate everything, and drive/install new seals in (two per leg). Assemble. Note before tightening the bolt on the bottom of the fork legs, compress the upper fork tube all the way down to bottom and snug up the bottom bolt and make sure the dampening rod is centered and aligned. Once tight make sure fork tube works up and down freely. Tightening that bolt is difficult as the dampening rod will want to spin, this is where you need a homemade tool. I have had luck with a wooden dowel sharpened or tapered to a point. I lightly tap the dowell into the top of the rod, grab on to it and keep it from rotating while tightening the lower bolts. This has been sufficient for me on more that one occasion. Prior to adding oil, and the springs, with the fork tube all the way down add fluid. Work the tube up and down a few times, and fill with fluid to desired level. Place springs in and install top caps. Scott
    Brad-in-STL likes this.
  5. Motoduc84 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Nebraska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1982 250 WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    Duc MTS 620, Yam SR500, Suz RM 125B
    Okay...remembering now. I still have a 'custom' socket for removing the aluminum damping rods. I cut a small notch on opposing sides and it worked. REALLY long extension for the ratchet; surprised I forgot about that. Thanks for the instructions, smadams68.
    Kent
  6. ruwfo Administrator

    Location:
    NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1980 390CR, 1982 430CR, 1984 400WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    1985 250XC, 2016 FJ-09
    Motoduc84,
    Don't forget to get new seals, 1985? & up Kawasaki 1000 ZG? (Eliminator model) forks were 40mm & the fork seals fit prefectly &
    you only need 1 per side , unlike Husky 2 per side. Take alot of care when taking out the old seal, so you don't screw up the surface
    that make contact with the seal. Also use a large socket or the correct seal driver size when installing the new one & take your time
    & drive them in straight. You may get lucky enough that the seals are still good & just need a good cleaning. I spray the inside of
    mine down with disc brake cleaner (2 cans) while i'm disassembling them.

    Husky John
  7. visiteur1948 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    france Europe
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    husqvarna only
    SAM_2346.JPG

    for front
    forks HVA
    40 or 35 mm !
  8. adam6402 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Tulsa, OK
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    None
    Don't skimp, buy new seals. I found a $5 piece of pipe notched with a dremel, measured to 20 inches with a hole at the top to slide a tool through to keep it from turning works well for holding the damper rod. Not sure what the bozo that ownd my bike first used.....
    .. IMG00575-20120105-2112.jpg photo2.JPG
  9. grouty Auto Lover ...

    Location:
    South West UK
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    78 390WR, 78 390 AMX, 500 Humph
    Other Motorcycles:
    works 73 CCM 520, another 73 CCM520
    When I stripped my 390 forks a while ago I found a chisel in one of them !
    So I guess that is what a previous owner used to hold the rod. His loss, my gain.
  10. visiteur1948 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    france Europe
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    husqvarna only
    SAM_3669.JPG

    maker (?) by me !
    simply !
  11. SA63 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Glasshouse Qld, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    84 510, 500 auto , 86 510
    I have not needed the damper rod tool.

    if you compress the forks when undoing the bottom the force of the springs on the damper rod stops them from spinning.

    So crack the bottom bolt with the forks in the bike or the axle clamp in a vice . You can crack the tops as well (whilst in the triples).

    Then turn the forks upside down and compress on the floor . undo the bolt, turn upside down andpump out the oil,remove the whole lot (slider/springs/ damper rod, from the bottoms, sort out the top cap later .
    Same goes for reassembly - loosely assemble and compress the fork to tighten.

    that notched tool is not an option for me as the top of the rods are modified for gold valves now...

    You should be able to do whole job from start to finish well under the hour mark!
  12. suprize Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bendigo, Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 400, bike in a box Moto Villa 350
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm 300
    Tips for removing seals, make sure you place some rag or a slice of teflon ( cutting board) on the lip of the slider as you pry the fork seals out. if they are old and cruddy, its not hard to damage the lip when you get sh#tty with the process!, ive always "cracked" all the bolts, dampers, caps etc in the bke and never had an issue with the damper rod turning. I wish id seen this post a month ago, i just forked (pun intended ) out for 4 new Husky seals when i should have gone for the kwaka's (i knew but lost in the sands of tine)
    Brad-in-STL likes this.
  13. Motoduc84 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Nebraska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1982 250 WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    Duc MTS 620, Yam SR500, Suz RM 125B
    Great news! I will get this done this weekend...get back to everyone soon!

    Kent
  14. ruwfo Administrator

    Location:
    NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1980 390CR, 1982 430CR, 1984 400WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    1985 250XC, 2016 FJ-09
    Guys,

    Just to confirm suprize said I’ve haven’t need to use a dampening tool on any of my Husky forks for years. I just did my 83 250 Sat &
    here’s a quick run thru.

    a) Support the bike so front end off the ground, break loose the bottom 13mm headed bolts on the bottom of the fork leg, then break loose the fork caps. Remove the front wheel, here’s a trick you only need to loosen the pinch bolts on the brake cable side clamp & the axle nut. This makes reassembly easier as you don’t have to juggle the axle spacer on both fork legs. Remove brake cable & forks one at a time, so you can position them back in the triple tree without having to take any measurements for the height.

    b) Slide the dust boots off, completely remove the fork cap, pull out the spring & drain the oil. Separate the fork halves, by completely removing the lower bolt-make sure you don’t lose the beveled washer in the oil drain pan. Pull the dampening rod out & check your top out washers (black plastic) replace them if there broken. If the dampening rod is difficult to get out -gently tap it out ,this is were people have been know to leave socket extensions, chisels & pieces of pipe. Clean everything, I use spray disc brake cleaner, my fork seals were done last season, so they were still good. Check everything for cracks, scratches etc & repair or replace as needed.

    c) If your seals are crap, replace them with Kawasaki Eliminator (40mm) fork ones, only one is needed per leg not the 2 that Husky uses to put in. Here’s were buying a seal removing tool comes very handy. Grease the seals before you drive them carefully back in.

    d) Reassembly : lube the top out washer on the dampen rod with fork oil, then slide back in the upper tube. Lube the inside of fork seal & assemble both halves, making sure the bevel side of fork washer faces down or toward the outside of the fork , start the bolt on the dampening rod. Temporally throw the spring back in & fork cap---don’t over tighten, now tight the lower bolt. Check to see the there’s nothing binding by compressing forks by hand. Loose the fork cap again, take the spring out , collapse the fork completely, fill leg 5-6 in from the top with your favorite weight fork oil. I use 5.5 inches & 10weight oil, but this is something you need to work out depending on your weight & riding ability. Reinstall springs, fork caps, fork dust boots, slide back into triple trees, tighten everything. Do the other side.

    e) Here’s a good time to check out your front wheel bearings, brake shoes, cable & axle. Also a good time to safety wire & tie wrap your brake cable as shown to prevent it from pulling out.

    Husky John

    Attached Files:

    Aviyaytor and luvwoods like this.
  15. Motoduc84 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Nebraska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1982 250 WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    Duc MTS 620, Yam SR500, Suz RM 125B
    Thanks, John.

    I do have a tool for removing the seals, so I am on my way. And, so far as you know, did all years Kawasaki Eliminators (900-1000) use the same fork seal? The local dealer has young kids at the parts counter and they struggle if you don't them the exact model/year of the bike and the needed part.
  16. visiteur1948 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    france Europe
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    husqvarna only
    SAM_3720.JPG
    SAM_3672.JPG
    fourche 40 01.JPG

    hi to France ! Motoduc 84 !
    y restore my 125 WR 1982 and today
    front forck 40 mm HVA 430 1983 !
    y am happy results !
    (my english is bad ,excuse me )
    Aviyaytor likes this.
  17. 2T_vs_4T Husqvarna
    AA Class

    visiteur 1948,
    Did you repaint the forks, if so, what is the RAL or paint code for the color paint you used.
    Cheers.
  18. Motoduc84 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Nebraska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1982 250 WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    Duc MTS 620, Yam SR500, Suz RM 125B
    Well, I won't be replacing fork seals this weekend. Dealer had to order them! Rats!
  19. ruwfo Administrator

    Location:
    NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1980 390CR, 1982 430CR, 1984 400WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    1985 250XC, 2016 FJ-09
    Motoduc84,
    According to Bike Bandit there the same p/n , i looked up the 85 900 & 87 1000 and there both # 92093. Are you sure the seals
    are shot? cause, i just did my 390 & 430 did this weekend, both were seeping & they just had dirt packed on the top. Pulled them apart
    throughly clean them & put in fresh oil & there fine.

    2t_vs4t
    RustOleum Gold Metallic Spray Paint looks pretty much like the factory color.

    Husky John
  20. Motoduc84 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Nebraska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1982 250 WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    Duc MTS 620, Yam SR500, Suz RM 125B
    Done. Followed your directions, John, and was well, with the exception of the seals. The Kaw Eliminators seals I ordered didn't fit; my '82 125 still needed 35mm seals, which I still had a few new ones in boxes (from my old '78 CR). Took me a little more than an hour....and about a pound of Oil Dry! Thanks for everyone's helpful advice.