FE/FC FE501 valve clearance adjustment.

Good morning everybody. I would like to add this post and ask if anybody has had a similar experience? Or can relate.

I just did a valve clearance check and adjustment on my '15 FE 501 Husky on this past Sunday. The valve clearance on it is supposed to be .10mm to .15mm on the Intakes and is .12mm to .17mm on the Exhausts valves. Both the intakes were fine at .12mm and .13mm. So I left them alone.

I had checked the valves clearance a week earlier so I knew I had to get the shim kit to do any adjustment on the exhausts. The exhausts clearance were at the outside of the allowable clearance. The right side was right at .17mm and the left exhaust valve was at a snug to the feeler gauge .19mm.

I wasn't too worried about that as the exhaust valve being loose by that little amount would only allow the valve to extract more heat out of themselves in the cylinder head by sitting on the seat a bit longer. "An old VW trick to keep from burning exhaust valves". I rode it last Saturday anyway waiting for the shim kit, knowing they were both at the edge or outside of the limit. "Not to worry" !

So I got my shim kit delivered and along with it a new K&L Metric/American reading caliper. I pulled it apart again, seat, tank after the ride on Saturday and mounted a new rear tire while I was at it. I pulled the rocker cover Sunday morning after putting the rear wheel back on from the tire change the night before. Up on the bike lift it went and I removed the exhaust rocker shaft and exhaust rocker and with a magnet pulled the pair of shims one at a time. using the Brand new digital readout metric/American reading Vernier caliper. so I wouldn't have to use my old dial calipers and do the math, just a simple flip of a switch and you can zero it anywhere through out its opening length.

I pulled the shims and measured them both and they measured 2.20mm on both sides. So I'm thinking I'm good to go, no problem. I have the 141 piece kit with 3 of each thickness in .04mm increments from "Hot Cams" from 1.72mm to 2.60mm thicknesses for the full assortment of shims. It was about $55.00 US dollars for this shim set.

I tried the next thicker pair of 2.24 shims and reassembled to re-check it. It was way to tight. The next .04mm thicker shims was just too much of an increase. So the only thing I could do to bring it back down a little tighter to get them into required specification was use a new pair of the same thickness 2.20mm shims as what I took out, that were installed stock at the factory.

As it appears the valve tip will wear a witness mark on the shims underside themselves. So the next closest and only option or only thing I could do was install another pair of the same "new" shims and reassemble it and check it again. It tightened them both up to within spec of about .13mm and .14mm. Since the "Hot Cams" shim assortment I have are in .04mm increments the next size shims (which I did try). I knew it would have been way too tight. It was. So I installed a new pair of 2.20mm thick shims from the assortment kit and put the used ones in the same divider in the shim kit box. I re-assembled it, checked the clearance. It was all I needed to do. I buttoned it back up and rode it just to check it out. It is fine.

The first thing I did when I got back from my quick check it out ride though last week was I purchased a complete other shim kit from "Pro-X" that the .04 incremental assortment is in between the other "Hot Cams" set from 1.74mm to 2.58mm in .04 increments.

Meaning now I have shims in .02mm increments available. "Pro-X" has 2 shim sets available that fit these bikes and most all of the 4 stroke KTM based engines. 9.80 dia. from 1.72mm to 2.60mm or the other set 1.74mm to 2.58mm but you need to get both sets, to have them all to have the .02mm incremental assortment. "Hot Cams" only has the one set like I initially bought with .04mm incremental sizes. - 1.72mm to 2.60mm.

So now if necessary, my next valve clearance adjustment will allow me to make a change down to .02mm.

Still having done this at home and buying 2 full assortment boxes of shims, 3 of each thickness in .02mm increments from 1.72 all the way to 2.60 now and the dial caliper I feel, was still cheaper than having it done at any bike shop or the dealers. Plus I have the peace of mind that I am confident that it is correct. The closest bike shops are about 100 miles round trip from me. The nearest KTM/Husqvarna dealers are over 120 miles from my place. Not that I would go to either of them for something so simple to do but there again what is my time worth?

Single shims are $1.99 a piece alone.

The K & L Digital caliper with a spare battery and case was only like $36.99. It saved me that much in time the first time I used it, not having to do the math or any conversion. Like I've had to do with my dial calipers, or micrometers. Or even bother to look at my "Proto" poster size metric conversion chart. That purchase alone was a great investment to have around since everything is in "mm" on these bikes. I have been doing the conversion long enough. Too long in fact and looking at my old conversion chart. No More of that.

I'm going riding this morning. I love new rear tires. Plus it rained at the start of the week. So it should be some ideal conditions in the dirt.

What have others experienced when doing a clearance check and an actual shim change? Has this happened to anybody else? Or am I just that picky?

I thought I would mention, I am running Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro formula since the first oil change. Plus a 1 ounce shot of Maxilube. At each oil change being done now at about 12 hour intervals. My first oil change was at .09 tenths of an hour. Next one was at 5 hours. I use a S/S filter.

Any input would be appreciated. If anybody has experienced a similar situation.

Thanks for any feedback in advance. Timmy

I have seen the witness mark thing a lot over the years on this style of cam setups. And as you stated was that all that was needed was a new same sized shim to bring it back to spec's.

Paw Paw

Thanks, PawPaw.

The bike ran just great today. Very Crisp. I at least know for sure where the valve clearances are at and have all the shims to make adjustments as time goes on.

This is not something I will ever overlook.

I also know that as things break in and bed themselves over time as wear progresses, if I ever have to go as far as up to .10mm or so to keep them in spec. That's as far as I will allow it to go.

If it ever gets to the point that I need to go that much or to that figure, .10mm

It will come apart at my own hands and its definitely time for a full head service and a freshening.

I won't let it get to the point of catastrophic damage being done by neglect.

Oh Yah, I almost forgot. The new rear tire was an absolute climbing beast in the loose rocky desert hills. But that's another thread all together. I'll just leave it at that.

I checked the clearance on my bike 2 weeks ago. The exhaust where still spot on and the inlet side also within spec, one max loose and one max tight.
Same as you I don't like valves on the tight side so I rushed inside the house to dig out my hotcams shim kit.
All measured up and the correct shim in hand came to the conclusion that they are NOT 10mm diameter as KTM normally uses...! F!!
Rang the dealer for the correct shim and while on the phone I ran the numbers through my head and I figured out I could swap the 2 inlets shims.
Put it back together like so and measured a few times to make sure it was right, both intakes are .13 mm.
Should have rushed out to buy a lotto ticket afterwards...

can't remember the exact details but I had the same problem with my 09 berg, ended up using Harley Davidson shims as they had a finer selection, can't remember exactly which model harley it was now

I think V-rod, that's the kit I have but mine are the wrong size.
Problem is KTM swaps in between 10mm shims, like the V-rod and 8.9mm as in my 501. Make sure you got the right ones when ordering.

Hi Big Timmy,
At how many hours was this ?

About 70 hours or so.
I have it written down in the shop but not there right now.