• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Electrical issue....No Spark

58Driver

58Driver

Husqvarna
B Class
A little background:
2011 TXC 511
I went on a dual sport adventure a few weeks ago and ended up on the side of the trail from the coil ground on the side of the head.
reference:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/449-511-ignition-ground.28115/page-2#post-258103
I stripped the broken ground wire and tightened the bare wire back on the head to get home.
The bike ran mostly good but would randomly sputter.

Friday, I serviced the bike and added a 12ga wire spliced to the black coil ground wire and ran it to the back of the motor where Londin Suggested in the above post. I also replaced the plug with a CR9EIX, accepted my PCV trims and opened up the airbox TC style.

Sunday left on a super twisty supermoto ride. I rode about 60 miles and stopped for gas. The bike has never run this strong. I was stopped for about 20 mins total.
I left out again, and now im getting the random sputter again like a bad ground. It got a little worse, and then died altogether. This time there was no roadside remedy and a long walk followed.

I took enough stuff apart last night to verify that there is in fact no spark at all.
The plug still looks brand new.
My local Husky dealer only works on the xlites and soes not have any diagnostics or experience with the 449/511.

My list to troubleshoot / eliminate so far is:

Kill switch - Is there a place to check for ground in the wiring harness to verify if the kill switch is activated? I can just take it apart too.

Coil - It seems like there hasn't been a documented failure of this part, but if it didn't work with an average ground, then maybe it was starting to fail?

Plug that connects to coil - Is this replaceable? its not in the parts list. it only has 3 very short leads.

Ignition pulse to coil - I think this comes in on the red wire going to the coil, I don't know how to measure it.

Im open to any advice / troubleshooting tips I own a multimeter, but im far from an expert on this stuff
Thanks in advance, Dave
 
58Driver said:
I read this yesterday and it seems some good general info, but not 511 specific.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-no-spark-2007-te510.33416/#post-315554
Click to expand...


Big bore thumpers that vibrate are gonna rub stuff around. I have had at least 4 major bare wire events in the 3.5 years, 18000 miles I've had my TE450. Below is the latest one, just last week, among the affected wires are the main power source (through a fuse and then a relay) for the coil, fuel injector and fuel pump.

HuskyBareWires_zpsb7fb8f7f.jpg
 
Tinken said:
It has been a known issue for no spark due to the kill button shorting.
Click to expand...

I will check it out... Found a PDF service manual should be some help

OlderHuskyRider: Im checking for skinned / frayed wires as I get deeper into this.
 
The kill switch works like it should - open until pressed then closed. (Blue/black) and (blue) wires coming out of switch.

The Coil tested bad according to my interpretation of the service manual. (Emphasis on interpretation)

The primary coil tested at .4 Ohms Desired is .6-.7 OHMS +-15% @ 20C or 68F. Its 70 F now.
----Measured between pins 1 and 3 or the two outside pins on the coil.

The secondary coil tested at 14.7 MOhms Desired is open circuit.
----Measured between pin 2 (middle) and the spark plug cap.

Terminal cap resistance I don't know how to measure??

does this seem like its worth spending the $$ for a new coil?
 
For troubleshooting purposes, I removed the pcv and autotune modules completely from the bike.

I redid the ground for the whole bike using the subframe bolt as a common point for the battery, rear engine case, and throttle body ground. Coil is grounded to rear engine case.

I have the start / kill switch disconnected
The blue "kill" wire is not showing a ground on the bike side of the start / kill connector

I'm getting good ground at the coil plug. The red wire in the coil plug gets+12v when cranking. The black wire in the same plug should be the signal wire. I'm getting an intermittent voltage on the black wire.

I don't know what is supposed to be present on the black wire to produce a spark. I have 2 of the three components - power and +12v. I may have a signal, I just don't know how to measure it.image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
The coil wire that was on the head could still be broken inside, pull plug off to the coil and verify a good ground path.
 
Tinken said:
The coil wire that was on the head could still be broken inside, pull plug off to the coil and verify a good ground path.
Click to expand...

I have good ground to the inside of the coil connector.
I couldn't tell how to get the wire out of the plug so I cut it close and soldered / heat shrunk on a 12ga wire.image.jpg

Does anyone know where / how to measure the output of the Hall effect sensor on the stator?
 
crank sensor.png I connected my pcv with these taps. I suppose the wire could be severed.

What kind of signal / voltage should be on these wires?
From PCV manual:
Connect the Crank input wires of the PCV to the stock crank sensor pickup wires (Fig. C).
This connection can be found near the bundle of wires towards the rear of the throttle body.
PCV WHT/BRN wire to stock GREEN wire


PCV BRN/WHT wire to stock BLUE wire
 
Quoted from this post:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-no-spark-2007-te510.33416/#post-315554
Applies to a 510 but I think it applies to the wires in the picture above.


2. Based on your testing it sounds like the Pulser coil is BAD. For testing the pulser coil (R and G wire) you will normally check for continuity between the two wires. It will be a small to medium ohm value, the 100 to 500 ohm sounds ok. An open circuit or a direct short is a fail. Also neither wire should show an OHM reading to ground. Generally that is all that is required for testing and the running output is seldom tested.
 
update:
The pulser coil or hall effect sensor for crank position is definitely putting out a signal. I measured about 2.5VAC across these terminals while cranking. I found a small continuity issue at the connector, but it did not affect the presence of spark.

Moving forward to the coil, I measured a slight signal voltage at the coil connection.

I believe that I have the three required ingredients to make a spark at the coil connector.
1) +12v on the red wire
2) Ground on the middle black lead
3) Trigger signal on the remaining black lead

The only possible conclusion is a bad coil. Im trying to find on in stock somewhere.
For some reason the BMW coil is priced at about $85 while the Husky part is $128.
My only concern is that the signal to the coil seemed low.
 
I hope you were able to pick one of the coils up for about 30.00 or so. That beats paying for a new one. For some reason LKQ whom is one of the nations largest auto dismantlers has parted out several of the G450Xs. I guess some people just let them sit so long in their garage they won't run so they have them picked up and hauled off to be dismantled..

Thats funny about the Husky parts being way more at the Husky dealers. Thats the rule for items like the Torque limiter as well the exact same part 15 miles away from the BMW dealer at the KTM,Husky,Beta dealers here in Tucson AZ. Which is the closest 2 dealers for me about 130 miles away from my house had Re-Packaged in a Husqvarna plastic bag with a BMW sticker on the box it was in was repriced like 230.00 at the Husqvarna dealer and its 180.00 or so at the BMW dealer. I buy from neither one of them. I go to Bike Bandit usually and pay like 165.00 for example.

Go to ebay though and BMW G450X parts bring a premium because of it being for a BMW. Husky 449/511 parts are about 20% less for the same thing when it comes to engine parts sometimes. I have alot of spares. I just picked up a pair of like new front lateral radiator panels today earlier for 69.00 shipped. They have discontinued production of one of the 2 side panels of these stock plastics well over a year ago and bare panels are 65.00 each if you can find them and the stickers are 45.00 each on top of that. I now have about 5 complete sets with limited production custom graphics from like Speedbrain and Touratech put away for a rainy day or when I sell or decide to just display the bike in my garage. I must have about 7 each or more of the numberplates and the fenders. I may not need them but the time will come when you won't be able to get them at all. I'm thinking of beadblasting a set to make them nice and dull and then doing a camoflauge set of plastics just for the hell of it. That might be cool looking and different too.
 
Waiting over. New coil = no difference.
I suppose this means the trigger signal from the ecu is not adequate
I may be throwing in the towel
 
Keep looking on ebay I've seen ECUs for sale as well. Can you have yours tested? I think maybe Tinken could do that at Zipty but I'm not sure. Or for what years. some are locked and can't be remapped. He does an exchange service for remapped ECUs for about 40.00 I'm not sure what 1 goes for without a good core but call him at ZipTy racing and ask him.

I'm installing a new PC V right now with the autotune O2 sensor as well and I don't plan on using the included splice connectors when installing. i'm soldering all my connections and sealing with heatshrink with glue inside of the heatshrink tubing.
 
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