• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Does this bike look hard to start?

DPete

DPete

Husqvarna
A Class
360 wr 003.JPG

It is, I have done all I know how to do, cold starting is the worst once it decides to start it runs awesome. Guess I'll learn to check the timing, could use the spec if someone has it 76'360WR. I have been all thru the carb ( Mikuni 38mm) if it starts it idles fine, if I shut it off hot it will restart, if it sits a few minutes it might or might not start but will normally bump start. Once in a while it will backfire a little thru the exhaust while kicking, compression tested + or- 150 psi with several kicks, when it won't start it has blue spark with the plug removed and plug not really wet. It's a helluva bike if I can get it to start. Suggestions welcome. Frustrating
 
You need a 78 style kick lever so you can get a full stroke on it. It makes a massive difference.

20141223_124437_zpsg9r8lrt0.jpg
 
DPete said:
View attachment 72426

It is, I have done all I know how to do, cold starting is the worst once it decides to start it runs awesome. Guess I'll learn to check the timing, could use the spec if someone has it 76'360WR. I have been all thru the carb ( Mikuni 38mm) if it starts it idles fine, if I shut it off hot it will restart, if it sits a few minutes it might or might not start but will normally bump start. Once in a while it will backfire a little thru the exhaust while kicking, compression tested + or- 150 psi with several kicks, when it won't start it has blue spark with the plug removed and plug not really wet. It's a helluva bike if I can get it to start. Suggestions welcome. Frustrating
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have you tried adjusting the airscrew and/or pilot richer/leaner? your conditions sound like it possible that it might be a bit lean or the choke isnt working
 
also sounds like its getting a little weak too..150 maybe a little low considering a fresh topend is 180 psi or close to it
 
On the carb I have tried different pilot jets, replaced choke plunger, replaced needle jet and needle, went down one size on the main, moved air screw in and out, it is now @ 2 turns out. Reeds look good. I bought it not running and it has come a long ways, maybe I need to pull the top end like you guys suggest. I like the idea of the longer stroke kick lever.
 
need to invest in the dial indicator..nice to have if you are going to work on two strokes. then you know your timing is set on them..
be careful with your new top end..thats why you had to lean the main jet. two strokes run richer with sloppy rings/low compression. with a new top end you will likely need jetted back to where it was.
bikes have been known to be jetted leaner and leaner then when they are rebuilt, they seize.

are you kicking until the needle quits climbing on your compression tester? i only saw you say a few kicks..
 
If the carb is adjusted or jetted too rich we tend to raise the idle screw(sleeve) to make it idle. This adds too much air. Your above the choke system on the carb, I would lower the idle screw and start it. Then adjust the balance screw. The pilot jet maybe way off. Check your float level and float drop too.
 
Retest with moderately warm engine, throttle wide open only getting 125 psi will test again tomorrow with cold engine to see the difference if any
 
DPete said:
Retest with moderately warm engine, throttle wide open only getting 125 psi will test again tomorrow with cold engine to see the difference if any
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either way, it doesnt really matter. bike is definitely low on compression...thats exactly why the thing ran rich on top. i strongly suggest richening it like it was once the top is fresh
 
DPete said:
LOL keep lookin you might see a for sale sign on it if it doesn't start
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the kick lever assessment is probably correct..i had that lever on my 79 and liked it..but could see how maybe on a big bore it wouldnt be so hot
 
The lever makes a massive difference. With the stock lever your foot hits the peg and you only get half a kick stroke. That might work with a 250 but its not going to work with a 360.
 
On those levers the swing out part you put your foot on hits the footpeg, your foot cant go under it, which is the whole problem. The 78+ kicker puts your foot out to the side, and below the peg so you can get a full kick.
 
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