Did a search and couldnt find anything on this although I'm sure it must have been discussed before, so forgive me if it has. I'm starting to consider the "power-up" thing and was wandering if its worth just having the cat removed from the existing pipe instead of spending a lot on an after market pipe? 1) Is it practical to actually have the cat removed, can it be done without butchering the pipe? 2) Do you get a performance improvement - all aftermarket pipes claim performance improvements but I'm a bit skeptical of many of the claims - so will this make a REAL difference? 3) Does it make the pipe a whole lot louder? It sounds fine as it currently is, wouldnt really want it much louder. Would appreciate any comments
I tried to no avail to remove the cat on my 09. People to knock holes in them but it doesnt seem to do much for either the performance or the sound. In the end I went to a Leo and added a longer internal baffle. Was both quiet and had better sound quality.
I too am considering doing a de-cat to the OEM plus I would like to shorten it while am at it I saw a quick and not in depth thread about it in SMJ I think, but didn’t save it so ill have to search for it I don’t have the riveting tool to close everything up ones the operation is done so I’m kinda thinking about taking it to a car exhaust shop and telling them here, open it up, make a big hole in the middle so it’ll be straight through and shorten it a bit.... It must be cheaper then dropping $300 for a Leo and the end result shouldn’t be that much far off.....I think......?
Hi AlanB, Speak to Blazes (he's also from South Africa) and he did mine - as well as installing the power up kit. Regards, Hennie
Have done a couple --not that difficult --I remove the complete cat --stainless steel and weighs a ton The trick is to know how to remove the cat ---- Fit a 50mm inner core with packing and reducer to one side and then pack it and rivit it back --works well going to do another one next week on a exchange basis --anyone want me to take pics ?? to show all how easy it is ---- sounds good as well
I did my 09 510. I don't know if the internals are the same on the 610's. It takes some degree of skill and a decent grinder, rivet gun, etc. I could only post a few pics for the thread but I've taken a few snaps since, let me know if you want any more info. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2009-smr-exhaust-modification.16491/
Blazes, assuming you are talking about the almighty 610 then yes please ! Absolutely if you can do something of a pictorial walk through it would be fantastic Thanks in advance (if you can... )
Hi Muddy --yes it is the 09 610te. Starting one tomorrow and will post the pics step by step --the more you do the easier it gets --
That was mine Quite a neat job and am very happy with the results. One of those "why didn't I do this a long time ago?" modifications. The bike is so smooth now! And feels like it has a lot more grunt in the midrange. Plus the exhaust actually sounds sightly quieter maybe, especially at speed? But with a really nice deep note. Thanks again M PS whats the word on using leaded fuel in an emergency now that the cat's out? I try and stick religiously to 95 unleaded which is the highest octane we get here, but am wandering what the options are if all you can get is leaded (and that's usually 93).
I am looking forward to this as it looks like the 630 cans are the same as the 610 can. Less restriction in the can(s) the better.
I have also been looking at the cans on the 630--I have ordered a 630SM but have to wait a few months till the next batch arrive here in SA--Definately going to decat them --do the O2 and just buy the ECU for it --going to be much more affordable for me--
Ok --here goes--- Firstly --remove all the rivets from the retaining bands on both sides of the exhaust slip on --NB --mark them as they need to go back in the same place and only fit properly when done so. Put wood or carboard in a vise once all the rivets have been removed. Not to damage the bracket on the pipe. Clamp pipe in vice and use a Aluminium or likewise item --install in back side of pipe and smack it with a hammer until the cattylist start to appear on the other side - Cut off at the end as shown --about 50mm --2inches from the bead--where the rivets were-- after end piece Now that is done --proceed with inserting a wooden block or likewise item to smack out the the rest of the cat towards the other side - This is what it looks like once the rest of the cat has been removed - Do not remove the inner packing that is stuck to the outer Aluminium box- Do the same as on the otherside and cut the end off giving it enough space to be re fitted later --NOT to short -- afterwards- Clean off all sharp edges and burrs and edges -- Rest to follow --
The Rest -------- Break out tail piece inner by using a sharp screwdriver or chissel -- after you have cut it to the sizes shown on the picture-- On the side leading out from the inlet --use a 50mm inner core --obtainable from any car xhaust dealer --ask that they expand it one size for you at the end to 55mm-- It should fit tightly into the inner section as per picture--no need to weld it on this side as the heat from the stainless will keep it in place-- Fitted-- I try to keep the welded section of the core to the outside wher the flow of gas will hit it first from the exhaust-- I use a tapered tube to adapt from the 50mm core to the outlet tail piece--any adapter can be used -- I fit this over the end piece at the angle required to match the inner core -- Once you have the position --angle and length sorted you can --tack weld the core to the adaptor --no need to weld the adaptor to tail end as it is a tight fit-- I then wrap the exhaust packing lightly over the core and when installing it only comress the two ends tightly as i feel the air needs to flow in an out of the pipe and if packed tightly the gas will jus flow straight through and serve no purpose -- I then put it together making sure that the core is linged up and using rivets to keep the end in place while i do this --not riveting them --just loose in the exsisting holes--starting from the back - Once this is done i assmeble the retaining bands and rivet them back in the original positions. sand the complete pipe with water sandpaper from 400grid till 1200grip and end up using Autosol to polish the pipe and make it look good again-- The finished product What was removed -- Materials used --about 30 dollars mostly labour --sounds awesome and not to loud and looks original as the standard Husky pipe is cool imho- Hope this could help those who want to tackle it themselves ---not that difficult at all --just need to follow the steps and you can do it in a few hours --
Thanks for the pics and steps Blazes ...... Now that I have seen the whole thing, I think my labor is worth the price of a Leo :-)
Takes about one and a half hours --- have a Arrow on my one 610 TE nice but expensive --i like to spend time in my workshop --i also did my 450 te
Did the same on 09 SMR cans (x2). Yes it is not that difficult once you've got in there and I saved some £500.00 over a pair of Leos. Think the cost of doing both cans with the SS baffle tube - and having the alloy sleeves anodised ran out to about £75.00. The saving has paid for a wheel rebuild and 5" rim. By the way, very informative post including photos. How did you manage to post 19 pics? I only managed I think 5 and hit a limit.
