CR500 Gearing

[SteveJ]

When I recently purchased my 83 CR500, the original 4 speed gearset had been swapped for a 6 speed wide ratio, I was given the 4 speed gearset with the machine. While I refurbished the bike for vintage motocross, I reinstalled the 4 speed, which seemed to me to be more appropriate for my use. I am running a 12 tooth countershaft and 53 tooth rear sprocket. The machine strikes me as being rather tall geared (high geared) in 1st. It has plenty of power. I am an intermediate level rider, on my other bikes I usually place in the top positions in my classes. My problem... on starting lines with good traction the bike wheelies instantly on the start. I have tried sitting as far forward as possible with as much downward pressure on the handlebars as possible. Tried leaving at higher rpm's but almost looped it. Someone suggested that I pin the throttle and dump the clutch to get it spinning, asked him if he wanted to try it . I feel the issue is with the tall gearing in 1st. The parts manual shows primary gearing between crank and clutch to be the same on 83 XC and CR, so unless someone pulled a switch with some other model, it should be correct. 12 lbs. pressure in the Dunlop knobby on the rear. I am thinking of changing to an 11 tooth countershaft sprocket to see what result I get. Anyone else have this concern on starting lines? Gearing suggestions? Starting line technique? Open to any and all suggestions regarding any of the above. I have never ridden one of these bikes prior to owning this one, so nothing to compare it to. Is it the nature of the beast? Thanks in advance.
Steve

 

[Bigbill]

I think the stock gearing is 13/53. The tighter wrap of the chain on the smaller front sprocket it will wear faster. I would keep the 12t front sprocket and go bigger on the rear sprocket maybe a 59t. Six teeth on the rear sprocket is equal to 1 tooth on the front.

Have you tried fanning the clutch at the start?

 

[suprize]

Have you tried fanning the clutch at the start? ....no power cords Bill (sorry)

Slipping the clutch would be the best term... pinning the throttle but only letting the cutch out to deliver enough power to launch not loop. takes a bit of practise but once you've got it it you can hold the bike with the front wheel a foot off the ground and maximum power delivery... sounds easy eh...

im sure your on it but the tall gearing really gives bite eh. maybe try getting off the line a bit slower to let the clutch out fully then pin it? maybe too slow...
smaller tyre?

face it im clutching straws here.

 

[Bengt Husky]

I had the same problem with my 83' CR 500. She had a 12 front with a 54 rear sprocket. I just could not get used to it.

I went back to stock and put a 13 front and 53 rear on. She pulls like a train now. I start in second gear and feed the clutch over the first 2-3 metres of the start. Sit right over the front and hang on for dear life...!!! On very long starights it may be a bit short, but a 500 pinned in 4th is still fast enough for me.

Steve

 

[Nikel]

I have 16/48 gears on mine and I can do backflips on it if i want to.
I think you just need to get the feeling i the right hand.

Valentino Rossi once said.
"At the beginning when you try first time the 500, Ohh faakk"

Sure it was a MotoGp bike, but for a normal person a 500 twostroker is more or less the same feeling.

 

[Bigbill]

The husky book from cycle world did say the 500 had more power than most experienced riders could handle.

I wonder how the husqvarna 500cr compares to the Honda and Kawasaki 500's?

 

[rajobigguy]

The husky book from cycle world did say the 500 had more power than most experienced riders could handle.

I wonder how the husqvarna 500cr compares to the Honda and Kawasaki 500's?

Both the Honda and Kawi are more powerful (faster) overall but the Husky has a flater torque curve which makes it a bit more manageable for riding Enduro type stuff. That being said, any open class 2T is more than most mere mortals can handle so trying to get out of the gate without the front wheel aiming at the moon is going to take some practice. For starters I would go a few teeth larger on the rear sprocket and run a little higher rear tire pressure so you can get the wheel slipping a little more but short of that it's just going to take a lot of practice.

 

[SteveJ]

Thanks for all the input everyone. Most important thing for me is knowing that it is the nature of the machine and not an unusual gearing problem. That said, sounds like I've got some learning to do with respect to clutch and throttle on the start. Practice, practice practice.

 

[SteveJ]

Both the Honda and Kawi are more powerful (faster) overall but the Husky has a flater torque curve which makes it a bit more manageable for riding Enduro type stuff. That being said, any open class 2T is more than most mere mortals can handle so trying to get out of the gate without the front wheel aiming at the moon is going to take some practice. For starters I would go a few teeth larger on the rear sprocket and run a little higher rear tire pressure so you can get the wheel slipping a little more but short of that it's just going to take a lot of practice.

I do have the first year Honda CR500 (1984), the only air cooled year. It is indeed faster, but tends to blubber and bobble until the mid range hits, then it turns into a Howitzer and you're in trouble before you realize it. I don't race the Honda because the mid range hit is just too much. Wanted the smooth power delivery of the Husky for that reason, may still be to much. I'm sure my reflexes at 57 years of age don't help. But again, practice, practice, practice and see what I can accomplish.

 

[Nikel]

The Hondas have a higer level of tuning that have sacrificed the low end torque over high rpm hp.
The liquid cooled cr500 have a maximum rpm of around 6500 stock so it is more like a Diesel engine than a 2 stroker.
But with some porting and tuning you can get a load of more hp and higher rpm.

 

[oldbikedude]

on starting lines with good traction the bike wheelies instantly on the start.

Sounds right to me.

 

[Kartwheel68]

It is the nature of the beast. I would have left the 6 speed in there, the problem with the 4 speed is it is the same as 2-3-4-5 in the 6 speed. Even then, to start a 500 two stroke you use 2nd gear (1st in your case since its really 2nd in the 6sp) and brutally slip the clutch so you dont either loop out, stall, or spin the rear tire too much. I actually start in 3rd with my '01 Honda CR500 for long starts, just slip the clutch.

 

[Kartwheel68]

Also, 13/53=4.07 so one tooth on the front is roughly equal to 4t on the back on this particular bike.

 

[SteveJ]

It is the nature of the beast. I would have left the 6 speed in there, the problem with the 4 speed is it is the same as 2-3-4-5 in the 6 speed. Even then, to start a 500 two stroke you use 2nd gear (1st in your case since its really 2nd in the 6sp) and brutally slip the clutch so you dont either loop out, stall, or spin the rear tire too much. I actually start in 3rd with my '01 Honda CR500 for long starts, just slip the clutch.

Interesting comment... I went out to the shop this evening and counted the teeth on the six speed gearset and got the following:
1st = 14:33
2nd = 17:29
3rd = 20:26
4th = 23:24
5th = 25:22
6th = 27:20
According to the specification sheet that came with the machine, the 4 speed gears are:
1st = 17:29
2nd = 20:26
3rd = 23:24
4th = 25:22
Exactly what you said, I would not have expected that. Yep, could have left the six speed and been much more fun as a play bike when not on the track.
According to the specs found here http://www.yourhusky.com/files/tech_data_81-88.pdf the six speed gearset I have is a CR, not a WR as the previous owner said. Should have researched it thoroughly before changing it.
Thanks for the input.

 

[suprize]

with the 6 speeder you can gear it to the moon and start in first!!

 

[SteveJ]