Anyone here replace the countershaft sprocket seal? I may have a leak, hard to tell. I did a chain service last week but decide to R&R the chain and sprockets. Lots of grunge has dripped down and into the skidplate, more than I'd expect from chain lube. I'm seeing two part numbers but even MAXBMW suggests I remove and measure, which is sort of inconvenient... Both the BMW fische and the husqyparts.com numbers match (G650GS and Terra respectively). 11117700117 (no.15) and 11117700116 (no.13)
Assuming it's the 11 11 7 700 116 SHAFT SEAL, OUTPUT SHAFT - 25X40X7 per the info on F650 website: http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/CounterShaftSealFAQ.htm
One guy had a cracked case that was leaking. He chased that for awhile and found it. Someone here may remember who it was and point you to that topic.
This also makes me think I should probably clean things near my sprocket. Just put on a new 15t and it was a mess down there. Please let us know what you find regarding the McMaster seal.
I'll be getting the seal today. Taking the old one out last night was not the easiest because of the space. I had to very carefuly drill a couple holes thru the seal and insert screws and wedge it out without damaging the surfaces. It was really goopy in there behind the cover and countersprocket. Hard to tell if it was actually leaking or not with the black cases. However I did clean around the cover and the skidplate last week when doing maintenance and lubing the old chain. When I opened it back up 2 dyas ago, there was a small river of gooey black gunk going dowm into the skidplate. It took me a good hour to get it all cleaned up using WD40 and other cleaners. Ready to install tonight...
Hey Rapid, If you can give us the play by play on this it would be awesome. Can you explain a bit further the process for removing the seal? do you just pry it from the outside and then push the new one in over the shaft? any sneaking retaining rings or tricky stuff? I plan to clean mine up to day to see if I am leaking in the same place. I recently noticed the bike used some oil (never had before), also noticed a ton of gunk when changing the sprocket... now you have me thinking this may be my culprit. Thanks!
I'll post a few bits later Out testing No clips no secrets I very carefully drilled holes either side and ran a screw in and pulled it out with pliers.
I didn't take a pick of the old seal and the screws, suffice to say it was severly damaged by the time I got it out. Not hard to get out just awkward due to the space. Not much room for prying, and you need to be delicate not to damage the seal surface in the case. Once out, I spent a good 20 minutes cleaning and asssuring the mating surface was unharmed and smooth and clean. I'd say it's actually trickier to get the new seal in nice and even. Used a bit of oil on the seal and surface, then used a large socket to tap it in. The socket was again, awkward, so once started, semi-even, I used a soft drift and ball peen to tap it all the way around. So far so good. I'll let you know is anything leaks... One thing I want to stress about replacing the counter sprocket. Make sure that your spring washer, washer and bolt are all completely centered. My spring washer was off center and a bit dented. I don't know if that was sloppy factory assembly or the previous owners work. Make sure she's all nice and evenly spaced... Also, I read an argumenton ADV, two knotheads going back and forth about whether or not to grind down one of the lower frame bolts because the chain was rubbing on it. That's going to happen if you install your counter sprocket backwards, that is, inside out. Looking at the parts manual it's hard to tell because it doesn't show a view revealing the offset collar on the sprocket. The collar needs to be on the outboard side to be in-line with the rear sprocket, and in turn clearing that frame bolt.
Hi Rapid Dog. Do you have your original front sprocket handy and is there any wear marks on it like in http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/front-sprocket-is-yours-on-the-wrong-way.88672/ ? Cheers
Yes, me ! Mine was a casing defect inside the oil filter compartment. My $1 Plastic Steel Repair job is still holding up 20 +k km and many oil changes later.
