Correct Oil for 14' TE310R

Manual says "Castrol Racing 1 10w50". I searched everywhere for that and closest I could get was was "Castrol Racing RS 10w50" Full Synthetic. The manual doesnt say whether to use synthetic, semi-synthetic or non-synthetic. Does it not matter as long as it's 10w50 made for a motocycle? Dude at Cycle Gear was giving me something about full synthetic being bad for a new bike.

I can't even find a source online for the "Power 1 Racing", I'm wondering if it's marketed as Power RS in the US.

That's what it looks like. Found this on another forum in case anyone cares:

Here's a copy of an email I received back from Castrol:
Thank you for contacting Castrol.

Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T is part of the Castrol Malaysia product line.

As many products that are carried in North America are not available in Malaysia and vice versa.

BMW Motorrad recommends exclusively Castrol Power RS R4 10W-50 for use in their new boxer model, the HP2 Sport. This is the first recommendation for a dedicated motorcycle product in the BMW boxer engine and follows the successful conclusion of in-house durability testing by BMW in Munich. This is part of a successful co-engineering program between BMW Motorrad and Castrol.

BMW also recommends Castrol Power RS R4 products in all wet clutch models (K 1200S, F650, F800 and the off road G450). The recommendation in owner’s manuals will be Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T. In the USA, the recommendation will be Castrol Power RS R4.

Castrol Consumer Relations

Many, many threads, too many to list so I will give a url...
http://www.cafehusky.com/search/1136400/?q=mobil 1&o=date

Don't stress the Castrol and go to Wal Mart.

First off, the numbers on the front of a bottle of oil are pretty close to meaningless. Secondly, Husqvarna specifies a viscosity that is too high for the 250/310 engines flow capacity.

Your question should be; "What is the correct oil viscosity for the 310R?".
I understand that M1 is not available in all areas, so a good way to know if your oil is safe is to look up it's kinematic specification prior to purchase. I have listed some ranges below that I recommend.

Less than or equal to: 85cSt@40°C
And hold a kinematic viscosity between: 12.9 & 14.3cSt@100°C



http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/what-kind-of-oil-should-i-use-and-how-much.31911/

Thanks for clarifying Tinken.

I would suggest you find another shop if he is representative of their sales reps.

That dudes last job probably included the phrase "Would you like fries with that?"

A lot of people still think that way.

Mobil 1 Lubricants & Specialties pg.10

I guess he wasnt that dumb after all, just old school. Good info Tinken.

What's next? a monoshock?!?1?!?!

There is old school...and then their is out of touch... I actually think Street2Dirt nailed it with his "fries" comment.

I just gave up on local shops. Unless you happen to find "the" guy that started the shop - generally everyone else is in there collecting a paycheck. I have just been so underwhelmed with the lack of product knowledge and general knowledge of our sport.

We all need t-shirts that have WWTD? You know, What Would Tinken Do?

LMAO

Its is frustrating, especially cause no one seems to really get these bikes. The dealer who sold mine couldn't help with the power up. I found one good KTM/Husky dealer but they're a hike. I miss my DRZ sometimes, until I remember how heavy and generally lame it was.

Why couldn't your dealer power up your bike?

I bought it not knowing about the performance issues of the bike when stock. Once I got it home and rode it, I knew something was wrong so I called the dealer and started asking about why it would be low on power. The sales guy said would have Service call me, but no one did. I found this forum and learned what they should have done and called them back. The Service guy was basically like, I have no idea what you are talking about, why would we do performance mods to a brand new bike without specific request. I told him the bike requires it to run right but got nowhere. Eventually, I knew I would have to pay them to do anything, I'd get no advice and it would void my warranty so I decided to do air filter frame, v-stack and cat removal myself, ride out warranty then remap. I have done the first two and it is now rideable, only having occasional stalls at low rpm, when starting out. It has good power and is now rideable at least.

Well, we are just up the hill from you and we do power ups. Come check us out some time.