I recently removed a slipper clutch from my 2009 TE 250. Going back to the "old way" is better suited for me. Anyway, the clutch seems to be kinda heavy compared to my KTM, which also has the hydraulic clutch. Are these know to have a heavier pull? If so how can I make it easier? Help is appreciated.
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
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Clutch pull heavy on 2009 250?
- Thread starter ktmhusky
- Start date
HUSKYnXJnWI
Husqvarna
AA Class
Well- there's at least 2 things that vary-
1/ is the piston size of the master cylinder.
2/ is the actual spring tension of the clutch springs.
1/ is the piston size of the master cylinder.
2/ is the actual spring tension of the clutch springs.
Pinittowinit
Husqvarna
AA Class
I put a hydraulic clutch on my wr300. Made life alot better. At the time Midwest mountain engineering did not have the lever for the magura "2" style clutch.
I also have a Midwest mountain engineering lever on my 510smr. The combo of a hydraulic clutch and the MME lever is crazy. I could work that clutch all day and not even think about it.
Those guys at MME are badasses. That lever is amazing, Its really nicely made, looks good, and is priced perfect.
I also have a Midwest mountain engineering lever on my 510smr. The combo of a hydraulic clutch and the MME lever is crazy. I could work that clutch all day and not even think about it.
Those guys at MME are badasses. That lever is amazing, Its really nicely made, looks good, and is priced perfect.
turboslacker
Husqvarna
A Class
My 2009 TXC250 clutch action feels stronger than I expected for a hydraulic. Feels same as straight cable to me. Fluid level is fine. Any other ideas?
I see there is a red adjuster knob on the lever. Mine was all the way out so the lever was way far out. I backed it off about 15 clicks from all the way out to bring it closer to the bar and seems to be better. I'm still going to take the recommendation above and get the Midwest Mountain Engineering lever.
AndrewS
Husqvarna
AA Class
For anyone using the MME lever, does it have the clutch switch notch? I read that it didn't initially, but that MME planned to add it. I realize I can override the switch, but I'm still wondering.
Also, is the throw significantly longer? It seems that if it's easier pull, there should be a longer throw since you don't get something for nothing.
Any other concerns?
Also, is the throw significantly longer? It seems that if it's easier pull, there should be a longer throw since you don't get something for nothing.
Any other concerns?
Slowpoke
Husqvarna
AA Class
A couple years ago I saw a bike with a clutch lever that had a mini linkage system built in to the pivot. (I wish I could remember the name)
It was mounted on a KTM. It worked very well, as the linkage reduced the leverage required thru the first 1/2-2/3rds of the lever stroke.
It was mounted on a KTM. It worked very well, as the linkage reduced the leverage required thru the first 1/2-2/3rds of the lever stroke.
AndrewS
Husqvarna
AA Class
Sheesh.. I'm just asking a couple questions that can easily be answered by anybody that owns one. You own one, but would rather spend a couple sentences telling me to just try it, rather than being helpful and answering my questions. Being in Canada, I have border BS to deal with, receiving it and sending it back, if necessary.
HUSKYnXJnWI
Husqvarna
AA Class
hows this for overthinking it....
Well I don’t have one.. but you are right Andrew, leverage is a measurement of length of lever/throw and power required to move it. If you keep the perch in the same place and grab a long clutch lever (with 2 fingers towards the inside) you are not using the whole lever to your advantage. What I do is try to put the perch further to the right to use the end of the lever- thus maximizing leverage as much as I can (limited by how much space I have on the bars after having cur ¾” off each side of the bar as well. I have a Magura short lever (which could be shorter).
The other aspect of the lever is where the pivot point is from the push pin (which applies pressure to the actual clutch piston). Changing this distance changes leverage as well. YES I would venture to guess that they decreased this length requiring more throw. BUT if done right, and only using 2 fingers/ with a shrt lever- you’d be moving the lever less to begin with- so it balances this distance/versus throw length to your advantage. You may not notice the distance change at all - but notice the change in pressure needed to be applied.
So I think it would make sense that they’d work well…. Pinitotowinit seems to like them… haven't seen any negative/disappointed reports.
Here’s another post on them… http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/clutch-lever-for-magura-sweet.19975/
Here’s the website: http://www.midwestme.com/pages/product.html
Just trying to add to the thread- If I destroy my current lever (which personally I don’t have an issue with) I might consider getting one of the MME’s and it would probably show to be an upgrade for me and how I would use it.
Well I don’t have one.. but you are right Andrew, leverage is a measurement of length of lever/throw and power required to move it. If you keep the perch in the same place and grab a long clutch lever (with 2 fingers towards the inside) you are not using the whole lever to your advantage. What I do is try to put the perch further to the right to use the end of the lever- thus maximizing leverage as much as I can (limited by how much space I have on the bars after having cur ¾” off each side of the bar as well. I have a Magura short lever (which could be shorter).
The other aspect of the lever is where the pivot point is from the push pin (which applies pressure to the actual clutch piston). Changing this distance changes leverage as well. YES I would venture to guess that they decreased this length requiring more throw. BUT if done right, and only using 2 fingers/ with a shrt lever- you’d be moving the lever less to begin with- so it balances this distance/versus throw length to your advantage. You may not notice the distance change at all - but notice the change in pressure needed to be applied.
So I think it would make sense that they’d work well…. Pinitotowinit seems to like them… haven't seen any negative/disappointed reports.
Here’s another post on them… http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/clutch-lever-for-magura-sweet.19975/
Here’s the website: http://www.midwestme.com/pages/product.html
Just trying to add to the thread- If I destroy my current lever (which personally I don’t have an issue with) I might consider getting one of the MME’s and it would probably show to be an upgrade for me and how I would use it.
AndrewS
Husqvarna
AA Class
hows this for overthinking it....
Well I don’t have one.. but you are right Andrew, leverage is a measurement of length of lever/throw and power required to move it. If you keep the perch in the same place and grab a long clutch lever (with 2 fingers towards the inside) you are not using the whole lever to your advantage. What I do is try to put the perch further to the right to use the end of the lever- thus maximizing leverage as much as I can (limited by how much space I have on the bars after having cur ¾” off each side of the bar as well. I have a Magura short lever (which could be shorter).
The other aspect of the lever is where the pivot point is from the push pin (which applies pressure to the actual clutch piston). Changing this distance changes leverage as well. YES I would venture to guess that they decreased this length requiring more throw. BUT if done right, and only using 2 fingers/ with a shrt lever- you’d be moving the lever less to begin with- so it balances this distance/versus throw length to your advantage. You may not notice the distance change at all - but notice the change in pressure needed to be applied.
So I think it would make sense that they’d work well…. Pinitotowinit seems to like them… haven't seen any negative/disappointed reports.
Here’s another post on them… http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/clutch-lever-for-magura-sweet.19975/
Here’s the website: http://www.midwestme.com/pages/product.html
Just trying to add to the thread- If I destroy my current lever (which personally I don’t have an issue with) I might consider getting one of the MME’s and it would probably show to be an upgrade for me and how I would use it.
I think I am going to try the MME. I e-mailed them about the clutch switch and they responded that there will be a new version in about 3 weeks with the bump for the switch. I can wait for that. Although, I should clarify that I need the original Magura version (2009 TE), in case he meant it would be on the new Magura 2 levers. I'll check back about that.
7point62
Husqvarna
AA Class
Sweet! Am pleased to have stumbled on this thread. I've never been comfortable with the stock lever and although reshaping the ball end slightly has made it more comfortable I'm still not 100% happy. I'll be shooting Steve an email to see if he delivers to the UK.
Nice one guys!
Nice one guys!