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Clutch hub nut question- help request

EricV

EricV

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi gang. I've got a slightly wobbling clutch basket on my 630- thinking the brass bearing is worn. I've had the assembly off before to have the cup washers done, but it was last put on by the mechanic who transferred all my innards to the new engine casings around 9K ago.

I cannot get the main bolt to budge. I've flatted out the lock tab and have immobilized the hub. Which way does that 27mm nut turn to loosen? I think the mechanic over-torqued it and I don't have an impact driver- but can use a breaker bar...but need to know if it's the usual threading or reversed.

So- facing the clutch- wrench it counter clockwise or clockwise? The manual doesn't say.

Thanks!
 
Hey Brotha, It loosens just like any regular nut ( turn wrench counter clockwise) that's the reason why they put the lock tab on because as the clutch basket spins clock wise it could make the nut come loose, so it's very important at the end to bend that tab again. Impact would be your best friend to take off only, otherwise you might have to suffer a little or more if you don't have the tool that holds the basket, part # 8000 39524 (around $80 ) if you use a regular screwdriver and etc to hold the basket try to hold it on multiple spots if possible so the force won't be only on one spot and maybe snap something. I did that mistake on a suzuki I had and snaped off one of those thingies that holds the clutch plates with the springs. Big mistake. Also when you put the new brass bearing lube it with engine oil and torque nut at 45.5 ft lbs and of course bend the locking tab, Really Important step. hope this helps, let me know how it goes.
 
It turns left to undo, anti clockwise . I thought my clutch basket was wobbling too much, so i got another bushing and when i changed it, there wasnt much of a noticeable difference, so I put the old bushing back and kept the new one for later. There must have to be atleast some clearance for the oil to get through and create a lubricating barrier.

The clutch spins anti clockwise in a 610. The crank turns foreward and the clutch is driven directly from the crank.
IMG_1740.jpg
 
Huge thanks guys- very helpful. Now this next question is more of my mind fuggin' with me....

I pulled the clutch plates and kept them in order. The manual says that when replacing them you end (so the last one on will be against the pressure plate) is a steel plate and not a friction plate. I could swear that the last plate on (when reinstalling) is a friction plate. The manual says the steel plate should be last- but the pics show a friction plate last.

My right side oil screen, by the way, is fine (this one has about 8500 miles on it.)
 
Count the friction plates, you should have one more than the steels.
I usually put a cable tie around my clutch pack to keep it in order.
 
Spice Weasel said:
Count the friction plates, you should have one more than the steels.
I usually put a cable tie around my clutch pack to keep it in order.
Click to expand...


Thanks man- and good tip on the cable tie. I'll do that next time.

From your pic it looks as though a friction plate is the last to go on (granting that's not definitive, of course, as the steels are thin so a pic can be deceiving.)

EDIT: Just saw a pic Theo posted in the "Help Debris found" thread and it appears that the friction plate is last before putting the pressure plate on. Weird that the manual states that it's a steel plate that would be past.
 
EricV said:
Thanks man- and good tip on the cable tie. I'll do that next time.

From your pic it looks as though a friction plate is the last to go on (granting that's not definitive, of course, as the steels are thin so a pic can be deceiving.)

EDIT: Just saw a pic Theo posted in the "Help Debris found" thread and it appears that the friction plate is last before putting the pressure plate on. Weird that the manual states that it's a steel plate that would be past.
Click to expand...

According to this parts fiche pdf on page 9, it states there are 7 steels and 8 friction plates. If there one more friction plate then it means the pack starts and ends with one.
 
Spice Weasel said:
According to this parts fiche pdf on page 9, it states there are 7 steels and 8 friction plates. If there one more friction plate then it means the pack starts and ends with one.
Click to expand...

That's the situation I have in my 610; the 630 should be alike, in this regard, according to the parts catalogs of the two motorcycles.
(I guess you meant «table 9», not «page 9»).
 
That's correct guys. I got ahead of myself overthinking it at work (instead of while I was staring at the pile of plates.) I did that as I only had an hour to resume work on it, after work, today. All buttoned back up, clutch works well.

Still not sure about that bearing/basket play. I hear you: must have a slight bit for oil circulation- makes sense. I've no way to know what's an acceptable amount. I wish I'd have measured my last bearing when it was new. Now that I type this I'll do a search later as I know someone did take all the precise measurements when we were freaking about availability of this part and discussing fabricating some. I'll look. Anyway my newer one has about 8500 miles on it and the first one had ~6500 on it. With my cheap caliper I couldn't measure any difference between the two, so installed the one with lesser mileage.

Anyway what prompted me to wiggle the assembly is the fact that when I'd release the clutch lever, while in neutral, I get a very discernible noise. Kind of a very light rattle/warble sound. Now of course I know that to a certain extent that's just normal, but as of the last 2K it seems to have become more prominent. Dunno- maybe it's just me but I don't think so. The bikes at around 15,800 now and I still love riding the thing.
 
A caliper probably is not sensitive enough. I have some experience with micrometers, quality inspection, et cetera, and, for the dimensions involved here, I think that you feel zero play if the clearance between the inner diameter of the clutch and the outer diameter of the bushing is not greater than 0.005 mm. If you had 0.02 mm of difference (about a thousandth of an inch), you would notice some play.
 
I measured the new bushing i have with two different vernier calipers, one digital, one not.
The inside diameter is 25mm. The outside diameter is 28mm.
The rattle/warble sound you hear might just be the edges of the friction plates beating against the basket, I get the same noise in the same circumstances.
 
Thanks again guys. I'll measure the one that came out again, just to see. I think my neighbor has a better caliper...probably has a micrometer.

The idea that the sound may be the edges of the plates rattling against the basket makes sense- thanks!

Much pain in the a*s to get that nut off but, as is usually the case, good to have the peace of mind that comes with pulling it apart. Also good to know my screen is still in good shape. The first one came apart about 8K ago so I was getting pretty paranoid about it.

Just have to do the valves, adjust the chain and swap the air filter out and I should be good for another season!

Eric
 
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