Need some clutch help folks. Getting this thing ready for the season is killing me- seems at every turn I find something else wrong with the bike. Oh well- it does have 20K miles on it, after all. The cut-to-the-chase: not sure how to attack this- replace this or that, or do the master rebuild and also replace the slave. Just want to be confident it’s fixed (last time it went it stranded me.) My master was nearly dry. Happened about 2K ago also- thought maybe a seepage issue...topped it off...didn’t seem to have issues (until I looked today.) To help you help me: 1.) There doesn’t appear to be a leak at the master. No wetness I can see. By the way I did put a Magura rebuild kit in about 6 years ago- leaking piston. 2.) Don’t see any leak at the slave. My guess is that it’s leaking inside. Thinking about a new slave rather than just a new O-ring, to err on the side of caution. What would you do? Again it’s got 20K on it. 3.) Dumb Q: Will engine oil come out when I pull the slave? Just changed the oil- would hate to waste it. 4.) Anything else I should know before trying to fix? Huge thanks all. I’m afraid I don’t know much about hydraulic clutches- first I’ve had. Really wish I didn’t - they’re not trouble free at all. Edit: looks a little wet inside at the master. Looks worse than it is- if I dab with a tan napkin it doesn’t appear wet. More of a greasy tiny dab. Eric
I took the master cylinder plunger out but couldn’t really tell if that had been leaking. Nothing external, and when I released the c-clip and white plastic washer some oil did come out (but nothing on the outside of the white washer before I released the clip and washer.) Seems to me my best course is (to ride this weekend, and to hopefully get on top of this from the get-go) is: Go ahead and replace the Master plunger (rebuild kit) AND replace the o-ring in the slave. Would you agree? Next steps after that would be to go w/ a better slave and better perch set up.
Here is what happened to me and how i solved the problem http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/loss-hydraulic-oil-in-the-engine-by-the-clutch-actuator.83445/
Thanks guys and thanks rotax- I did see that post and have read through it. I am going to try to find a Viton 2093 today! Eric
I'm sorry there was a 0 too many 0770020210 It is a spare parts original ktm Identical some 2093 oring
This is great- thanks! Trying to find one now that I can hopefully get by the weekend. I've also ordered the master rebuild- might as well do that too, just in case. EDIT: Called a bunch of places and no one has it in stock. I did find a place in the state next to mine and they say they can get it in a couple of days, and then overnight it to me. Thanks again!
It is a pleasure to solve problems here on cafehusky. when you carry out the repair put some pictures here on the forum
Bummer. I decided to swap out the internals of the master cylinder and the slave o-ring...just to be sure. In the barrel of the master I see a significant scar. Put the rebuild kit in anyway (hoping to get a little while out of it- while I research master cylinder options) and tomorrow I’ll do the slave o-ring when it arrives. I don’t think I want to try to hone it out- no experience with that and, before that, I’m done with the Magura crap (at least this model.) I’ve gotten a lot of miles out of it, but not w/out some hassle and the ongoing paranoia of failure. I’m wanting to do the master and, while at it, might as well get a new slave. EDIT: Further help request: Kirbybikes had posted a good solution- changing the 163 master to a 167. However- I am having a hard time finding a 167 that uses mineral oil, in a 9.5. I know I can go to DOT4 (by changing the slave or it's o-ring to one that can handle, but would rather stay w/ mineral.) Further edit (because- as you already know- I over-communicate): After scouring the net I did find a 167 in 9.5 that uses mineral oil. It doesn't appear to have the clutch safety switch/wire, but guessing I can splice mine together to bypass that. Please let me know, if you know, how to best do this. I think there are 3 wires in that section to the switch. Thanks!
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/margura-clutch-master-cylinder-replacement.85766/ Link to the lever replacement thread. Corrected the error in the part number for the safety switch. Looked at the wiring diagram and it only shows 2 wires. You have a fifty fifty chance of getting it right. But I believe it should be connected together to bypass the switch. Twist together and try to start, but either have the bike in neutral or clutch lever in first. I know obvious.
Thanks man- appreciate you getting back to me. I did find a place that has a 167, though this one (as indicated) doesn’t appear to have the switch (and duh on my end- should have read your thread more carefully, and the guy I ordered from- though nice- didn’t seem to have the knowledge you have.) Looks like I can add it on. Thanks also for looking at the wiring diagram. I did that too, since, and see two wires. Should be simple- we’ll see (asked because I’d seen some more general posts on adv that said on bikes w/ ecu there could be issues or more to it.) I think I’ll try it- wouldn’t mind doing away w/ that feature. Anyway I think the master I ordered should work fine. Also installed the slave o-ring so hope that works well, though I think I’ll go ahead and get a more robust unit. Thanks again!
Hi Rotax- I think you got lucky with where that anodization is flaking off. The spot near the end, on yours, appears to be just outside of where the black seal rides, and the one further down looks like it may be in the area that's between the black and green seals. My "bad spot" is pretty bad and, unfortunately, it's right where the black seal slides along. I re-assembled things yesterday and it held up for the bleeding and a brief ride around the block, so I'm hoping it'll be good for this weekend. As indicated I did order a new master cylinder because I do feel confident my bad spot is right where the seal rides, so I expect to see leaking fluid fairly soon. I also have what appears to be roughness in the bore that I can't explain- maybe that's the start of more flaking. I did swab it all out carefully with cotton swabs and- though it looks bad- it felt relatively smooth. Here's mine:
Eric, good call on replacement! Until I could get my clutch replacement parts I put a diaper of paper towel wrapped around my master cylinder and carried a small bottle of mineral oil with me and topped up mid ride. This got me thru 2 rides and several hundred km. Rotax I would start sourcing a replacement cylinder because you will need it some day. Personally I would change before full failure just to save the head ache of it ruining a trip. But where would the adventure be in that. As the bikes get older and the miles or km build more people will be going down this road.
when my pump starts to leak again I will evaluate the purchase of a new Brembo pump https://www.red-moto.it/shop/frizio...pa-frizione-idraulica-ktm-husqvarna-husaberg/ Or n.20 https://evolutionbike.it/swmstore/oem-parts/superdual/frame/21.html
Hi gang- Do you know what slave cylinder options there are for the TE630? I called Zip Ty (about the one on their site) but they say it doesn't fit the 630. I'm also seeing Oberon models, but not sure which will fit the 630. I replaced my slave o-ring a few hundred miles ago but no joy- still losing fluid. I have the new master cylinder so now it's time to do both of these at once. Thanks! Eric
Thanks! I did find one that's an Oberon, though it looks a little different than that one. The site/shop says it's the right part/fit. Hoping to get it by the end of the week.
