clutch dragging and adjustment help

[Old Geezer]

Got my bro's '85 CR500 fired up a few weeks ago and road her for a couple minutes down the street. Running like a top, shifting fine, etc. But, when coming to a stop with the clutch pulled in, it's dragging just enough to where you can't select neutral unless you're still rolling a little bit. Come to a full stop and no dice getting neutral. Not good, since this forces you to shut her down in order to dismount, and forces you to have to kick that beast alive again (which is a pain in the posterior with these monsters).

Earlier on in the restoration process, we pulled the clutch basket, plates, and discs all apart and cleaned well because the previous owner had made some comment about the clutch 'not quite working right'. Figured it was just gummed up.

Anyway, I think I adjusted it correctly at the arm that pushes the actuator rod through the shaft center. I've got probably less than 1/2" movement at the end of the arm, and even with the clutch lever at the handle bar set to almost no clearance at all, the clutch still drags.

I basically followed this procedure that someone posted awhile ago:

Disconnect the clutch cable.
Remove the cover.
In the center of the clutch is an allen screw held by a lock nut.
Hold the allen and loosen the lock nut.
Adjust the screw to get 7/16" to 9/16" of free play of the clutch arm when measured at the end of the arm.
Re attach the cable and adjust the handbar lever to 3/32" play between the lever and purch.

Shall I pull off the cover again and adjust the shaft/arm to even a closer tolerance? Clutch hub springs all looked ok and the through-bolts are all turned in fully to their stops. Maybe the springs are of uneven tension due to age and the plate is not releasing evenly/parallel to the clutch plates. Just thinking aloud.....your thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[ruwfo]

I was taught to adjust the clutch at the handle bar, like this. You should having a gap of the thickness of a dime as you pull the lever in, before the clutch cable moves.

Husky John

 

[crew67lm]

This probably isn't the problem,but trans oil that is too thick can cause just enough clutch drag to make finding neutral difficult.20 or 30 weight oil is thick enough.
Just a thought...

 

[troublemaker]

I have this same issue.I have been using hydraulic fluid and it has helped some.

 

[Ron]

Warped plates in the clutch can cause it to not fully release.

 

[Old Geezer]

Thanks for the input so far. I'm using new 5W20 oil, since I couldn't seem to find straight 30W. Maybe once she gets good and hot this symptom will lessen....I hope.

As to clutch adjustment, with the clutch cable completely slack I always do the control arm down on the cases first to get the correct clearance (if too tight and no 'slop', then the release bearing surface will always be contacting the pressure plate and wearing it out). Then finish the adjustment at the handlebar to leave about 1/16" gap in the grip...again, so as not to be putting tension on the release bearing surface. At least that's my understanding and how I've done it. With those two adjustments done properly, you get maximum available release.

Warped plates...always a possibility especially in a bike with unknown care and feeding over the years. How about the clutch boss bearing itself (clutch baskets always seem to have a little slop in these old bikes, Husky or otherwise). Perhaps the entire clutch assembly is wobbling around due to a worn bearing, causing uneven grab. Again...just brainstorming.

 

[Xcuvator]

All good things to check. don't forget to look for notchy basket fingers.

 

[firecrackerkid]

Everyone has their own ideas about oil. I think husqvarna recommended 20wt and quite a few use ATF. I could easily be wrong but I don't think you can find neutral while stopped and running, at least not easily. I get mine into neutral while I am coasting before I stop.

 

[WayneL]

I use Motul Transoil in the gear box. I fitted a new set of clutch plates a while ago to my 87 WR400 - no drag and better feel than a bought one , but now after some use/abuse its developed some drag.....

 

[fran...k.]

Have you pulled this piece out and inspected?

 

[Old Geezer]

Everyone has their own ideas about oil. I think husqvarna recommended 20wt and quite a few use ATF. I could easily be wrong but I don't think you can find neutral while stopped and running, at least not easily. I get mine into neutral while I am coasting before I stop.

You're right, it does call for 20W (not 30 as I mentioned earlier). I couldn't find straight 20 so went with the 5W20 that I could find. Can't imagine that would make a huge difference. Interesting that this dragging seems to be a bit more common than I realized. I spent some time reading all the oil opinions out there, enough to make your head spin.

Funny how my XC never had this issue back when it was running with straight 30W(now that's another story).

 

[Old Geezer]

Have you pulled this piece out and inspected?

The thought has crossed my mind, but those things don't just 'slide right out' when you pull up on them. Didn't want to force it out, not knowing if there was a secret handshake to get them out. I can see where you would lose some action if seriously worn as in the picture.

 

[fran...k.]

There is a six mm bolt (10 mm head or slotted can't recall at the moment) that needs removed, kind of a safety stop and then just pulls out but also forces the seal out that is the resistance. The bore wears as well but that shouldn't effect how well it is dis-engaged. I know the oil has an effect on getting totally stuck when parked for a few days if the wrong additives are in it. It is supposedly the oils with the energy conserving which I think is pretty much the norm by now you don't want. I am sure there are plenty of oil threads on the internet. I use tractor transmission and hydraulic fluid though my issues of late were locking up when parked needing broke loose then fine for that day. I wouldn't expect perfection form that clutch, it has one ore set of plates than it did at first, I believe. A single or dual plate dry clutch is the real fix though not applicable in this type of design.

 

[Old Geezer]

There is a six mm bolt (10 mm head or slotted can't recall at the moment) that needs removed, kind of a safety stop and then just pulls out but also forces the seal out that is the resistance.

Thanks. I did remove that set screw but found that still the shaft would not just slide up. To your point, it's the seal that's tight fitting. I may just yank that sucker out this weekend for kicks and giggles, see how she looks.

 

[2premo]

a common problem and so it was with my 85 500
clutch drag is affected by temperature too, when warm the plates swell
I heard the 88 4 stroke clutch plates fit and work better

 

[mr stainless]

just a thought ...the clutch on my 500 if stood for a while drags and the only way I got rid of it was to remove the plates and soak them in oil ..... now mine does not get used that much so as soon as I have had my last race in sept ish I remove the plates and soak until racing starts again in may ish .....

 

[grouty]

I used to have this issue every time I dragged the 390 out of the workshop. Cured by binning the alloy plates and replacing with steel ones. The clutch basket was replaced with a billet one from Andy at HVA factory. I run Silkolene medium gear oil. No slipping, no dragging.
The old basket looked fairly good, but the difference fitting a new basket was incredible.

 

[hva-factory]

I think you may be looking in the wrong direction here.

Remove the clutch completely and undo the small screw on the right engine case. Pull out the shaft that has the cam on it that moves the pushrod. Replace this part if it is worn, as its 'cam' action defines how much the clutch pushrod moves. Also, replace the seal with a sealed bearing. This improves the action, and if the hole in the case is worn - gives a new lease of life to the rotating mechanism. The end of the pushrod that mates with the cam should be flat on the evo bikes but with a small radius on the end of the diameter. (See pics of new parts)

 

[hva-factory]

This is a good upgrade for all of the primary kick engine bikes for all years. I have made the pushrod at 8.6mm diameter too, so they dont flop sideways when the cam moves it - but still loose enough to operate and get oiled. Re - assemble the clutch and adjust the arm to give 8mm of play. Fit the cable and with luck the adjuster at the bars will be mid-range. Oh, yes - be absolutely sure to use a Magura clutch lever. The mechanical advantage of the modern levers is not the same as a magura!

Hope this helps!

Andy Elliott

 

[Old Geezer]

Excellent Andy, thanks for chiming in! That cam, being as small as it is, will make large movements of the pushrod with relatively little rotation I would guess. But if the surface is worn, then I suppose you would get unacceptable pushrod movement no matter how tight you have the cable adjusted...just won't get quite enough plate separation to prevent the dreaded drag. In theory anyway. Worth looking into, or resurfacing if possible. I wonder if this isn't the cause of what appears to be a pretty common symptom of these 'ol bikes?
Any input on the proper sealed bearing size that will fit this shaft and case bore?