Chain Tentioner roller brg #

The bearing number on the chain tentioner black roller with the side rails is 626 2rs.

on what bike?

The spring loaded lever chain tentioner with the black roller. I think they run from 81 maybe sooner to 84. The little bearings with the 6mm hole are number 626 2rs.

I don't believe this chain tentioner roller gets such a small bearing. I see so many huskys missing the chain tentioner setup. It's really needed because it swivels tention wise when the swing arm moves. It keeps the chain in check. There is no way to adjust the chain tention properly without it. I've seen the chain come off and crack the case near the clutch operating lever housing. The other thing is premature chain, sprocket wear can happen without it.

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/catalog/item/6417224/6297118.htm

It really isn't needed. At one point I put Metzler marathon street tires on my xc500 and pretended it was a street bike and that thing would oscillate like crazy. Using a roller skate wheel seems to be what folks that had those bikes when new or close to that did. My 420 has a genuine up tite aftermarket device. I might guess that is where George gets his user name and perhaps business name from. I think I had more problems with wear in the pivot assembly and spring breakage. Before I stopped using it I used an aftermarket roller and made it bigger with a custom addition.

Most of you folks on here seem to be in the restoration mindset while I probably get considered more beater and bitsa as time goes by.

Are you sure the bearing has a 6mm hole? The other bearings just in front of the sprocket have an 8mm hole but pieces to make a 6mm bolt fit.

could have sworn these are a 608rs, along with the other chain rollers as well as almost all aftermarket units..now i need to go check..

as you say frank, these spring loaded ones are kind of a hassle and not really that useful.

I ordered 20 of the 608 rs and there too big. They probably fit the rollers on the rear. Unless the spring is tired after all it's from the 80's? I believe the setting is 20mm between the swingarm tube and the roller.
Don't forget like any spring used in a application were it turns must be lubed too. Just a few drops of oil.

Note, don't forget to lube your garage door spring. It can get costly replacing it.


I fabricated a similair tentioner on my '76 Suzuki ts185 and she worked fine. I made a bolt with a washer welded to it so the spring tention could be adjusted. It took a few tries to adjust it correctly.

Is George still in business at uptite Husqvarna?

He posted here a while back and I emailed him about a uptite 500 cylinder and he returned a message right away. I was wondering if the Husqvarna after market products were still available for the left kickers?

You are kind of funny here. I just recently replaced a pulley on one of those.

Springs need lube. I have the spring that turns and winds up on my garage door not the one that extends. The one that winds up turns on a tube. If left dry it can bind and break. It's similair to the chain tentioner setup.

Sorry I use similair designs for examples so we can understand.

I haven't used that tensioner for two years now without an issue. I just set the tension for 1- 1.5 cm when im leaning on the bike, sprockets and pivot in line. works fine..its been raced trail ridden flogged un mercilessly without a whimper... it was fine then suddenly the alloy tube wore out on one side and the tensioner wheel was cockyed and looked like derailing the chain..so I ditched it.

But if the suspension is constantly compressing the sprockets and chain probably see tention at the compression point too. I feel the lever/roller chain tentioner is there to keep the chain at the correct tention. Now is there a setting without using the chain tentioner? Probably so but I feel it's the terrain that can be a factor too and how much the suspension travels. The only way to see how the suspension works with and without the tentioner is to block the bike and remove the rear shocks. Then move the swing arm to see when the chain gets tight without it. Then try it with the tentioner to see how it works with it.

chain will always be its tightest when the rear axle, swingarm pivot, and countershaft are aligned.

"chain will always be its tightest when the rear axle, swingarm pivot, and countershaft are aligned." And this is where the chain should be adjusted for. This can be obtained with the chest on the seat or a tie down quite easily. The distance from the sprocket center to the swingarm pivot center is rather large compared to most comparable bikes but the advantage is that a wide range of sprockets can be used. It would seem that the distance is not so great that the tensioner device was deemed necessary when they went to the aluminum swingarm.

there is no doubt that early long travel bikes had issues and a tensioner would help solve these. also helps "whip" when cracking the throttle hard. I know from a mates effort to xl 350 a vb monty that unless that sprockets and swing arm pivot are in line ...the chain will double up into the front sprocket with unhappiness the result!! OTB evry time he landed from a descent jump .... back to the drawing board

Well the bike had it from the factory so I'll have on them. I'll set it correctly and forget about it.

cant argue with that Bill...