Hey Everybody. I stumbled on a great deal on an almost complete exhaust on ebay. I bought it because High Performance Coatings is local to me and they offer really nice thermal insulation coatings. They have done turbo downpipes for me in the past with excellent results. The exhaust will be coated both inside and out with a Titanium Ceramic rated to 2000F. The benefit is greatly reduced exhaust pipe temperature. This coating keeps the heat in the exhaust gasses and not in the pipe. http://hpcutah.com/coatings/high-temp-2000-f-black-high-performance-ceramic-coating/ Quoted price over the phone is $25/ft. If anyone is interested I would be willing to combine orders and do a "Group Buy". I have no relationship to HPC. Just sharing a resource. Got the pipes, heat shield and O2 sensor for $69. Matt
That''s some good stuff, and a good idea. I don't really care for how the header comes so close to the crankcase and the oil pipe in particular. Before it became a hipster thing, pipe wrap was the way to go. Last week I wrapped mine in DEI Titanium wrap. (Note, is fake Chinese stuff out there so beware. Got mine from Summit Racing). Doesn't seem to fade or get all nasty...
Interesting, I never even considered doing that to the bike's exhaust before. I had the turbo manifold and part of the exhaust on my car done by a similar local shop a few years back when I upgraded to a different setup for the same reasons that you describe. It's still holding up really well. Let us know how it turns out.
Spoke with Marco (MXGP TM Racing Manager) about this coating. He said when on the east coast for the Florida round of the MXGP they visited some of the NASCAR facilities and saw their exhaust systems with this type ceramic coating and after discussing with the engineers, decided to give it a try on their MXGP bike. He said temp testing has shown a marked decrease in radiant heat during their instrumentation process/testing. PS when it heats up it takes on a sort of gray color so its not so noticeable out on the track.
Header seems VERY close to the crankcase, oil pipes, fuel tank, rear brake line etc, etc. to me. I would not personally choose header wrap but it is a decent alternative if you don't have access to ceramic coating. +10 hipster points for looks. Matt
I never really considered it for a bike before because the old "chrome" ceramic coatings would discolor and generally look like shit in a few months. Fine for car underhood but I didn't want that look on a bike. The 2000F coatings were way more expensive back then also. The new 2000F coatings are available in black and are done locally now so they are much less expensive. The benefits can be considerable. I will be documenting the temp differences between stock and coated with a laser thermo. Matt
Yep. Nascar guys, dragster guys, turbo guys, etc ,etc . If it makes hot exhaust it will benefit. The "Titanium" finish cooks to a whiteish color. They have a new black that supposedly does not discolor / turn brown. I will be trying out the black. Matt
We were wrapping our 4 stroke moto machines with the header glass wrap tape quite a while back. A few of us had full wrap like seen above. Because of water, dirt and mud getting all impregnated into the wrap mine evolved into only wrapping where the radiant heat was a problem. To insulate the side of the airbox from melting was one place and at the shock from heat. This was on my 2006 TE450 for 1 example of use.
For another example of spot use for failure prevention. Exhaust tape in one spot on my 2008 TXC450 to insulate the plastic air box that had a common melting issue from the collector heat.
Finally looping back around to this with photos. Internal/external coating is CeraKote InsulKote thermal barrier. Final external coating is Cerakote Glacier Black good to 2000F. I had the exhaust pipes coated internally/externally and the mufflers coated externally only. No idea how it will perform but it looks pretty good.
Hey RD, how is your wrap working?, I´ll have to find a solution pretty soon because my gas tank is getting very hot on city traffic and builds a large amount of vapor that inflates it. Has anybody noticed about this issue before?
did you remove the vent valve in the tank cap? It's known to fail and stay closed. Could also be that the rubber vent hose is pinched when it's not routed properly. https://advrider.com/index.php?thre...questions-thread.850525/page-85#post-22407576 http://destinationworld.be/tr650-terra-tank-breather-valve-removal/ I also noticed that the fuel starts to "boil" when the engine runs hot for a while like on longer slow offroad sections but didn't have any issues with overpressure building up in the tank.
Thank you very much for your advice, didn't knew that the gss tank cap has a pressure valve. I'll, let you know how it worked.
Sorry, now I get it. ItsI on the check valve on the cap ring. Some good option if the valve is broken is to take it away, just prevents fuel leak if bike is in its side or water getting inside of fuel tank if immersed.
Dear CarstenB, I did opened the pressure valve and didn't found any problem. Went out for a short trip to try the valve and after a 2 hours ride the gas fumes were getting out of the relief hose. Can you tell if the right position of the bearing in the pressure valve is in the left chamber? Thanks for your help.
i don't quite understand. Did you remove the spring, bearing ball and washer for the test ride? And now the fumes exit through the rubber hose? That was the purpose of removing the valve. The fumes can escape instead of building up overpressure in the tank. I think the bearing ball, spring and washer go into the larger central hole but why do you want to put them back in?
I placed them back for the test ride. So you think the three elements work together inside the same chamber?
