castor oil for 2t mix

I should of read more into using the castor 2t mix oil. I chose 32:1 ratio using blended castor oil.
Now I found oil when the mix sits the oil separates from the gas. So I need to shake the bike to mix it up again and shake up the 4 gallons of mix. Well I might be switching to maxima super M 2t mix next. I don't feel comfortable with the castor oil but I could be wrong.

Is there a trick to mix castor oil 2t with some synthetic 2t mix? Do some of you do it?

All 2t oil will separate to some degree over time, but castor oil yields high hp with a high engine protection. It's downside is cost as it is very expensive. I always do the fork-pogostick before firing my 2smoke bikes.

Yes, it's called Maxima 927.
It's a synthetic oil with degummed castor added. It burns clean and does not separate.

I use the Maxima 927 at 40:1. My fuel mix doesnt stay in the tank long enough to separate...and this type of landing helps mix it anyway...

a good pogoing is important (said the bishop to the barmaid ) if the bike has sat for a while. also helps if there isn't much in the tank to freshen it with a couple of new litres of mix. fuels can go off in 2 - 4 months. some bikes don't mind, some wont go!

don't mix synthetics with mineral oils they can go like egg whites in the fuel.. nasty. always empty and replace.

I think a good quality oil at 30 - 50 : 1 with a few drops of castor if you want that smell.. but castor was phased out for good reason...its not quite as good as the newer oils and you need to have it rich.

I use the motorex fully synth at ridiculous ratios of 75 and 100:1 in the wr 400 and it goes well. will be stripping for a looksee after 3 years of flogging the crap out of it at vinduros and desert rides. it is a water cooler. it also does the chainsaw, whipper snipper and blower vac and none have poohed themselves to date.

the blowervac is 20 years old I worked out the other da y. purchased in 1994. 2 cords and 3 of those little priming bulbs..useless machine...

i ve used this stuff for years..good oil but around 10-12 bucks a quart. the smell alone is worth it, but have had great engine life with it at 40:1....i never keep gas more than a month or so but have not noticed mixing problems. bike is always in the back of the truck for at least 30 minutes or pogo'd 10 seconds..

also, the bike in my avatar was bought nos by me in 98. the vast majority of the miles on it are klotz, it has to have well over 200 hours on the stock bore/piston. still pulling 210 psi tho! was 212 last year and 215 about 6 years ago..

that's what you need...we don't have that Klotz in aus, we only have the "clots" who run the country (any party...they are all imbeciles)

I use Castor 927 also, I never seem to have any problem with separation, but as a habit I always shake the can. I also make sure not to top off the bike when I stop riding, the turbulence of filling the tank mixes what is in there before I start riding.

I run Castrol A747 at 40:1 with no problems.

I road race, wide open throttle almost constantly. Standard bore and piston and done over 10 x 2 day meetings including Phillip Island.
I use Maxima 297 castor / synthetic at 25:1 I remove the cylinder every few races to check and the wear is so minimal it is hard to measure.
Everything inside is coated with oil although the smoke is minimal and there is virtually no build up of carbon in ports or pipe. I don't believe there is any advantage to running less oil.
I have noticed after trying synthetic once, the noise from the engine which comes through the fairing was much louder and sounded rattly.
I have not had any issue with mixing but do shake the tanks before use.
Cheers

Ty told me today that he loves Klotz too. Maxima 297 as well.

We are adding two additional pro riders to our race team next year, both on two strokes. During enduro cross and our pro races we use GP-7. It is ridiculously expensive, but it allows you to run heavy mixes as low as 20:1 without choking out the pro class. (super low smoke).

the only advantage is 15ml per litre and oil at $35 a litre

i know it sounds tight but I hate buying a bottle of oil and tipping all into a drum in 1 go. I like that I can jet the bike with altering oil volumes at times for subtle changes
there is no splooge and the bike runs crisp and sweet.

I have seen all sides of the coin on this topic and I don't recommend anyone run lean oil mix unless your comfortable with it and understand what your doing. it must be a fully synthetic heavy base oil to get way with this.

I told a bloke about my mixing ratios and he put 75: 1 in his just rebored 82 430 and complained that it was nipping up....its first ride was a water sodden paddock bash .

fresh engines = 20:1 fr christs sake!

if I went Road racing I would pull back to 50:1 at least, maybe 30:1

i just dont understand the point of running lean oil ratios? what is the benefit? very very little spooge and the only smoke really is at startup/choke at 40:1. is it just to save money? my plugs last from months to a year or more..

more fuel per charge = cooler engine -most significant benefit.

There was a myth circulating between the factory teams at one point that 24:1 ran the fuel leaner than 50:1, therefore developed less hp. This is false, there is only 1.2% less fuel by volume and the hp and increased wear well out weights that loss. 24:1 is for racing, while 32:1 is easier to tune for as a happy medium. Most desert racers down here run 32 to 36:1 and many 40.

Edit: 1.19% difference I'm being told.

Hi Guys,

2 stroke oil technology has improved over the years, I use Opti2 which can be mixed between 70 to 100:1.

How is this possible?

When I pour the Opti2 you can see straight away it is easily twice as viscous as a mineral oil, so of coarse you don't need

as much, but does make it harder to mix into the fuel.

Also it is a one mix oil, I mix it for my bike if I don't use it all I can use the same mix in my weed wacker, still some left use

the same mix in my chain saw, no need to worry about ratios all mixed at 100:1

http://opti2-4.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=165

Any time you change oils you should be doing plug chops!

http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/technical-information/spark-plug-analysis

Cheers, Dave.

I notice some guys add more oil to the mix making it more lean on the gas. If there isn't enough gas so the engine runs lean it's going to eat something more than gas? Lean engines eat metal.

We speed cut with the husky chainsaws at the local fair in competition using high test gas with optimal at 100:1 mix. Some guys used aviation fuel. I'm not sure about the chrome inside the bores of the newer bikes but the chrome in the husky chainsaws and the cajiva dirtbikes was exactly the same quality. I never worked on the newer husqvarna bikes. But the cylinders are like a chrome lining not chrome impregnated. These cylinders had rock hard industrial chrome lining. It was so hard it would make the industrial hones squeel like a pig. The stones on the gear driven hone couldn't touch that chrome lining. You match that hard industrial chrome lining with a good quality set of chrome piston rings the engine should last a longtime with a good quality two stroke oil mixed correctly and if the carb is jetted correctly.

During the engine assembly I burnish a moly paste into the cylinder wall and piston skirt. We ran the whole season with no problems. Then we tore it down for inspection. The cylinder walls and piston skirt looked like new. We installed new piston rings anyway. But the old rings were probably still ok. I use the moly paste in everything.

That's actually myth, see my last post.

As Tinken says, while it is true changing the ratio of oil does change the amount of fuel, the difference is so tiny in practice its irrelevant.

The plating on modern engines is not chrome its Nikasil (silicon carbide). KTM was the first to use Nikasil on production bikes in '84, before that some companies like Kawasaki did use chrome.