My 200 ktm front brake is not releasing all the way, any advice, cant get into piston area to maintain it, is this all one unit pressed in?
I'm not familiar with that unit is it a twin pot or quad? When the callipers Off and lining are removed then keep pumping the brake till one almost pops out then lock that with a clamp an pop the other out. That's for twin clean up with very fine and paper I'm taking 2000 grit or finer. If you can't do that then grab a load of penetrant spray then douse the pistons (not the disk or pads) then use a flat bladed screwdriver to push the pad/piston back in. If that don't work then I may hazard a guess your pads are worn replace em.
adjust your lever. It's probably too tight against the M/C piston, not allowing the piston to retract past the relief port.
if your brake is locked from a lever being adjusted too tight and the wheel will not turn or barely turn.... there is no maintenance your brakes need- any motorcycle brake system that'll hold pressure for more than an hour is fine. now, if they're locked for another reason than that's another issue. turn the orange or black knob out a couple of turns (takes all of 3 seconds) and you'll know faster than you can write "interesting". If that doesn't work, crack a banjo bolt until a spot of fluid comes out & then re-tighten. And if that doesn't work, I'd guess your slave pistons have an issue. don't forget to let us know the results.
Maybe i didnt explain fully. They have a slight hangup when i spin wheel like its not fully opening or releasing as much as it should
brake drag. (did you try the lever???? 3 seconds of effort) grease the caliper pins with silicone grease (not talking about the pad pins). Make sure the caliper is free to float- both halves (unless, of course, you have pistons on both sides of the rotor). try it, then report back.
I thought about mentioning that but I assumed (hah. ummm, oh-oh...) that HS507 would be able to see and/or feel that. HS507, what do you say?... (and do me a favor, would'ja- when you mention "piston" be specific about what your talking about... you have 3 pistons, sometimes 5, in your front brake system alone)
All my bikes got bent rotors, im a woods rider. But no its not issue. Csliper not fully releasing i think
like trench coat said try pulling the pins and lubing them while the caliper is off see if the pistons move back easily
Ok, i rebuilt both master and calip, piston moving decent but still soft after alot of bleeding, maybe line has a slight clog? I see banjo bolt leaking a bit on master, never did before!? Weird. Maybe put old crush washers back on and tighten slowly and get leak to stop and see if pressure builds so its not soft any more, other than that at this point if it doesnt work i will replace line. I never had an issue like this that wasnt solved, nuts! If not solved i might rebuild master again i guess. Bought an after market kit, maybe should went with OEM for rebuild. Anyone have these issues?
Make sure the loop from the lever is lower than the cylinder, I tuck mine down under the bar pad to bleed. As for your banjo washer heat it till it glows and dunk it in water or let cool naturally this will anneal it so should crush up again.
Juicy- I think that annealing only works on copper washers; watch out for aluminum or (god forbid) the banjo washers with a rubber seal on the inside diameter. keeping the brakeline lower is a good technique- a handy way of doing this is to hang the m/c by a wire a foot above the bike.
an easy way to cheat on the washer is barely lose the banjo and twist everything to attempt to seat agree on master above ALL for bleeding, I tie my line straight up and just last week rebuilt the master on my 02 KTM 380 put the banjo in loose squeezed the caliper above the line and clamped the banjo tight, then release the brake and it pulls back fluid (not air)
