1. 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

Bottom valve removal from left fork tube

Discussion in '4 Stroke' started by hardtailcy, Sep 5, 2015.

  1. hardtailcy Husqvarna
    B Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 Husqvarna TE510
    Other Motorcycles:
    Suzuki RM-Z 450
    Hello guys, the left fork tube of my 2008 TE 510 has developed a small leak. Going through the repair manual it states that a special tool is required to keep the inner parts of the fork tube steady while removing the bottom valve. I obviously do not own this tool. Did anyone succeed doing it without the tool? Did you use a rotary hammer tool to remove the valve? If removing it is easy, boltiing it back will it be possible without the special tool?

    Thank you guys, Andreas.
  2. Dirtdame Administrator

    Location:
    Rock Springs Wy
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    11 WR300,13 WR125,18 FE501
    Other Motorcycles:
    17 Beta Xtrainer
    Where is the leak coming from? If it's from the fork seal, you don't have to remove anything from the bottom of the fork to replace a seal.
  3. underwatersimon Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Pictou Co. Nova Scotia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2015 Beta 350rr
  4. hardtailcy Husqvarna
    B Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 Husqvarna TE510
    Other Motorcycles:
    Suzuki RM-Z 450
    Hello guys, the leak is coming from the bottom valve compression damping adjustment screw. I removed the bottom valve keeping the top bolt of the tube in place and found two o'rings. Will be replacing both.

    To be honest I do not understand why the manual says to hold the internal components of the fork tube in place while removing the bottom valve, because they are not even connected.

    Anyway, will keep you posted on how it goes.
  5. rancher1 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    WA
    The bottom valve screws into the cartridge aka "Internal components".
  6. hardtailcy Husqvarna
    B Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 Husqvarna TE510
    Other Motorcycles:
    Suzuki RM-Z 450
    You are absolutely right rancher1. You can only bolt it back on if you use an electric rotary driver. After installing it and replacing both o'rings, again seems to be leaking through the adjustment bolt.

    Next step is to remove it again and disassemble the bottom valve for inspection. I am thinking that I may need to disassemble both valves from both tubes so that I can re assemble them the same way and by this keeping the same damping adjustment on both tubes.

    Let me know if you have any other suggestions. Thanks.
  7. hardtailcy Husqvarna
    B Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 Husqvarna TE510
    Other Motorcycles:
    Suzuki RM-Z 450
    Hello guys. I managed to fix the leak from the bottom valve of the left fork and now I have the same issue with the right fork! The leak is always there regardless if the motorcycle is used or not. Oil is always coming from the bottom valve compression adjustment screw.

    I disassembled both forks two times and still cannot stop the leak from the right one, but I always succeed installing correctly the left fork.

    There are no visible damages to the cartridge thread and sealing surface where the bottom valve is installed. I always replace the o' rings with new ones, always change the oil and always tighten the same way both forks. Do not have the special tool to hold down the cartridge, that is why I use the electric rotary screwdriver.

    Does anyone believe that there will be any difference if I disassemble and reassemble the bottom valve. I do not think so considering that there are no internal seals to the valve other than the two external o' rings. See image for reference.

    Will keep you posted. Andreas

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