I decided to be preemptive in changing out the plastic elbows on the fuel pump. Just knowing my history the chances of breaking something is fairly high. Coupled with the absolute frustration with the stock connectors failing to close off when I've needed to take the tank off I wanted to get it done. I went with the brass Omega Engineering Inc. products. If you order from them make sure that you get Viton O-rings designated by the suffix FKM on the item. This will double the price from standard and need to be made to order taking six weeks or so. If any one is hot to do this I had to get two sets as a minimum order..... I had already committed in my mind so I went ahead with it. And yes it cost too much....... $300, I probably should have canceled the order when the price doubled and the order minimum doubled too. So if anyone really wants a set up I've got one.......... $150. These specific items are FT-LCD230-06-FKM and FT-LCD100-06-FKM The female body with 3/8"NPT threads and the male connector with a 3/8" male barb. Viton O-rings all around. Flow is stopped in both directions when disconnected. As shown in Nesbocaj's helpful thread I referenced to do this I used vice grips and a lever against wood to remove the stock plastic. One came out whole and the other broke. While your in there it's a good time to check for this common issue. You can see here that my holding ziptie was loose. As well I checked for the wires connected to the pump. My black one was loosish and I decided to make sure it was tight. Like kewekenievial found here Rather than keep the plate mounted to the tank I held it in a vice. For the 3/8"NPT tap you also need a 37/64th bit. Kind of silly to do but it helps me visualize what I'm doing.... As mentioned elsewhere, be sure to put something to block the filings in the fuel filter side. A note about tapping something cast like this. I was nervous. I took it very slow, lots of backing out and cleaning. I was worried about how much meat would be left on the rise but feel good about sinking threads into the meat of the plate. Using Teflon tape, yellow rated for gas, was the catch. When just getting the male NPT part snugged up there was a little pop where the upper lip section seemed to let go. It was just a hairline crack but enough. I backed out the fitting, re-wrapped the threads with one less wrap and put it back in. Just for backup I used a touch of JB Weld on the hairline crack to make sure it wouldn't grow. Time will tell but I don't actually think it will be an issue. Just a word of caution to stop a touch earlier if you have any questions about it. I used 5/16th fuel injection line. A bit of a tight fit over the 3/8" barb but it works. I took the stock fitting with the two straight connectors and cut them out, fitting them to the other end. All done and connected up. You can just see the splash of JB Weld. The rest of the pictures are in my SmugMug Gallery Worth it? $150 is way steep for the four parts but the moneys is already spent and I'll never spill gas all over the shop trying to take the tank off again. I was originally thinking it would be half that.......... I guess time will tell.......
Yeah, just think of it as a nice job well done and move on. Don't let spent dollars impinge on your enjoyment.
The money is easily worth knowing I wont break the stock plastic elbows on some silly tipover in a rock garden. And knowing I can, if need be, take the tank off and not have to spill, or drain the tank. Another plus is that I can now offload fuel if necessary with the spare stock elbow, I'll throw in the toolkit with the siphon hose.
advice? Would these be another alternative? Russell qwik-release.[/ATTACH] What corresponding AN number for the incoming fuel line? (no, I've never replaced fuel lines before) Thanks, Sid
If it is actual Teflon tape and not some cheep plastic substitute, no fuel of any kind, will ever degrade it. Ken
Ken is correct. Only difference between the Yellow (gas proof) and regular white teflon tape is the yellow is thicker for bigger diameter pipe and course rough threads. It's thickness just means fewer wraps. Hard to work with on smaller cleaner threads. Later George
Intake manifold? fitting Almost through with creative and needlessly complex fuel pump elbow replacement. Is the brass barb on (what I assume is intake manifold) a standard EFI fitting? Like GM uses... Sid
Took the plunge, pulled brass barb and tapped with 1/8" NPT. Put in male -6AN 45 degree adaptor. That aluminum was pretty soft, hope will be ok. Don't want to ride a flamethrower. Plumbed line with Russell proclassic hase, covered with thermal wrap. If I had to do over, think I would put quick connect (I used Jiffytite) in-line rather than directly to the tank. It's pretty tight under there.
Husky Sherco bits I have heard that the fuel pipe / outlet part on the husky is the same as the sherco part, can be bought for as little as <$20, anybody confirm this ?
If we're talking the same part, it's barbed and difficult to remove (said one report). Not sure if it's also difficult to insert.
I have seen reports of it being the same part. You will need to search in TT forum also. I think that was were I saw it first. That said George at Up-tite has a real nice fix for this. I think it was around good price for the Double and less for the single line fuel pumps.
