• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

88 engine paint

oldbikedude

oldbikedude

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hello folks, I have searched this site over & can't find a good idea on what paint finish to use on my '88 430 engine cases. I love the satin finish on the older models but the factory paint my my '88 looks to be shinier & quite thick. I will be doing a rattle can job at home but I have been pretty succesfull painting in the past. Anyone have any sugestions. Duplicolor, Krylon, VHT, High temp, primer, no primer, clearcoat, no clearcoat, flat, matte, semigloss****************************************! I just want to get it right the first time. Thanks in advancee guys OBD.
 
Duplicolor was prefered once but is not fuel resistant. I was at Autozone last week and picked up a can of Rust-Oleum Flat Black engine paint that is fuel and temp resistant. I also purchased a gallon of Rust-Oleum Aircraft paint remover. Stripped multi layers of paint off 2 WR frame in under 2 hours. You want to prime any spots without paint coverage, paint will not adhere to bare aluminum or mag. Zinc chromate over bare aluminum or mag then overcoat with the paint.
 
I've had good luck with VHT semi gloss. Degrease the motor real good , light scuff, prime any bare spots, and shoot. The factory paint is some tuff-stuff. I would n't try and strip down the whole motor to bare metal. It's a waist of time and the new primer and paint will not stick as good to the bare metal as the factory paint.
 
I have used Kal-Guard gun coat.You have to bake it at 350 deg to cure it.Gas and oil has no effect on it.Just have to prep the cases good for good adheasion.Best if you blast all the old paint off. Check out their web site.
 
Thanks husky jim, that is what I was wondering. The paint on my lower cases looks thick. heavy powdercoat thick. I know it's not powdercoat & is original paint. I wasn't going to try to strip it all the way because I can tell it would be a major project in itself. It goes against everything in me not to because I'm a bit of a perfectionist. I've bead blasted & painted many bike motors (engines). If this were a show resto I prob. would strip it but I'm not done riding it yet. (although the cases are gutted now of everything) Hmmm, oh here I go again. Nope not gonna strip it all. It actually isn't that bad now but while it's apart I have to freashen it up. So I guess I should use High temp primer on those worn spots? Who makes that? Or doesn't that need to be high temp?
 
Thanks Auto, I've never seen that product before. I'l have to keep my eyes open for that. I guess it it ment to be used on guns?
 
oldbikedude said:
Thanks husky jim, that is what I was wondering. The paint on my lower cases looks thick. heavy powdercoat thick. I know it's not powdercoat & is original paint. I wasn't going to try to strip it all the way because I can tell it would be a major project in itself. It goes against everything in me not to because I'm a bit of a perfectionist. I've bead blasted & painted many bike motors (engines). If this were a show resto I prob. would strip it but I'm not done riding it yet. (although the cases are gutted now of everything) Hmmm, oh here I go again. Nope not gonna strip it all. It actually isn't that bad now but while it's apart I have to freashen it up. So I guess I should use High temp primer on those worn spots? Who makes that? Or doesn't that need to be high temp?
Click to expand...

Read the instructions on the VHT can. If primer is needed use zinc chromate or zinc oxided primer.
Rustoleum has a etching primer for aluminum.
 
oldbikedude said:
Thanks Husky jim. P.S. nice bike.[/quot].



Thanks, I was looking for a 400 or 430 motor for the my auto and found it while searching craigslist.
If you look at page 21 and 22 in Vintage Left Kickers / Post up pictures of your vintage Husqvarnas bikes! It was a true C.L. find.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top