87 510 TE Value

Does anyone have a good idea what a good used 510TE value would be. Was put away properly indoors and just needs fresh fuel, tires, general maintenance and cleanup. Not abused. New England

Did you see the pair for sale on Ebay?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Husqv...ash=item3625b9470c:g:d9EAAOSwhVxaChQr&vxp=mtr

And there's this one

https://www.ebay.com/itm/87-Husqvar...ash=item3d4f416c58:g:~McAAOSwpvZZ6nIM&vxp=mtr

Wow that is real close to me. I have an 1988 with a black tank and white shrouds. Did not the four strokes change like the two strokes in that manner from 86 to 87. Hard to tell how much is true, a tractor will pull without touching throttle these things can cough and stall.

That is a real good deal compared to what I have bought years ago if indexed to silver or something like that.

Fran, those bikes listed on ebay are 1987 models. The four strokes usually got the updates a year later, another thing lagging on that model is the front brakes are still the single piston.

How about the shock linkage? is that the 85-86 type? I suppose I could look at the sheet and figure it out.

Single piston on each side of the rotor and floating disc.. If that is what you are talking about that is not generally liked.

All 86 components on the 87 4 strokes Fran.
I paid $1500 for a real nice 1 owner one i have and paid $1700 for a another that ran but looked rough.
I think i got lucky and the 1 is worth more like $2500+

The ebay listing one(for two) is ended Lasted perhaps 8 to 10 hours after this thread started.

The listing ended because I brought them home and they will be in NETRA Vintage land next season. I have some learning to do about this model. These are late 86 titled as 87. Round headlight. I need to get up to speed on the maintenance issues of the 4 strokes and tips for setup.

How do you like this bike? I am 5'4" 150lbs. Starting issues?

Do the boots fit? If those boots go with when the bikes were last used it is a good sign. The last two pair of the ones I have had have different clips, the first pair was like that.

The maintenance for me has been the timing chain. If it gets too loose it wipes out a thimble sized screen filter that cost like $70 and that was years ago. Eventually I got a 10 foot box of name brand chain (as opposed to husky part number) and have not had to do it again. Lots of races and bearings in that linkage and swingarm, the replacements kept getting farther from the originals'. Hopefully they are good enough for your purposes.

Stating is wonderful cold. A year of two and starts real easy. Re starting when hot is or can be another matter.

Fran

I found if you can, bump start it on a hill with a little help from the decomp lever to get it turning over is the best way if its hot...

I find them much lower than my other bikes, my wife is your height and handles it well.
I love the bikes, the front brake is garbage for the weight though.
upgrade the forks and the brake and you will love it.

This was the rough one got for 1700

shorten the kicker a smidge and if you cant get it to lite up in two or 3 kicks hot....do the decomp in, full throttle with 4 good kicks...it should fire up next kick...do this especially if you turf it into the scrub....

Peace of cake John, i use the decomp lever on the bars for a split second.

bumping is all about the decomp for sure. i had to find a depression or a lump to stand on to get a good kick at it.... thats why a mate who has ducks disease had shortened his kicker by an inch or so and it made it easier to get over and fire a solid kick first time. his was a good starter once we figured the how important that little lever on the bars was....(two stroke riders..we had no idea)

Am I kicking with the decompression lever pulled in to start or just use it to get past top dead center then kick full compression?

Use it to get past the compression stroke and to clear it out with many kicks and wide open throttle when its too hot.

you need to get as much of the kick happening "just after tdc" so the flywheel inertia can get the piston hitting the next comp stroke as hard and as fast as possible. there is lots of internal drag on these things so it takes a solid effort. i found that focusing on the first kick and having a good crack got it fired every time. if i hurried or waved the foot at in hope it usually failed and i would need to do a clear out session which tired me out just that bit more which then made the next kick weaker.....

Alright boys here goes. I know this will be interesting.
What engine oil. I want to just change and see if they run now then put the good stuff in Spring when we start racing.
Can I just run conventional 10/30 for now or go with conventional motorcycle specific. Temps in the mid 30 to 40 degrees. I plan to run Synthetic in Spring.