'86 wr400

Hi, a newbie here! Love the forum, very informative.I have a question. Been offered a '86 wr400 in bits. Engine rebuild with new piston,sleeve and clutch/waterpump casing about 10 yrs ago then put into storage (roof space/attic). Chassis and bodywork rough.No v5/ logbook but number plate there, frame and engine number prensent. What i'm struggling with is the value of it and what to do with it when i buy it. I'm tempted just to get it going scruffy as it to ride it around (want a rider, not a bike i'm afraid of getting dirty) What do people reckon? Thanks in advance.

That sounds like a good plan. You will want to do a leakdown test on the engine as the crank seals may be questionable after an engine has been out of service for that period of time. You should ensure that you only use premix coolant from a dealer or aluminum safe coolant mixed with deionized water. As far as current value if it is complete and suspension is in serviceable condition in America you could spend around $1000, Also if you need to purchase missing components you will see your investment into it rise dramatically.

What do you mean "in bits"? Is it apart? As in, not fully together? If it is really nice, but apart, I wouldn't spend more than $500. If it is rusty and in parts, geez, $200-$300ish. Seems like a decent running one is $1000-$1200.

I bought a "barn find" WR430 for $700 (complete, all bolted together, decent looking bike, not started for ~8 years) and I spent about $400 on parts to get it going, and that did not include any kind of engine work.

The main driver for price not discussed is location. He did not specify where he is located and did not post any pics showing condition of the parts. Having a fresh top end with piston kit and bored to fit ready to assemble is a major plus, the fact it was stored for 10 years and not prepped properly, that 'new' top end may longer viable. Again contingent on location. I do not assemble my engines until I know the are ready to run otherwise. Because here in the humid in summer Northeast a freshly bored cylinder will rust to a new piston sitting in a tarp shelter or an unheated shed over the winter

Bike has been stored in a nice and dry roof space of a modern house in the south of the uk. Top end of engine is not fitted and visually looks good. I've applied for the documentation, if that turns up, i'm going to buy it as they look a great bike to have.Thanks for your input,i'll keep you informed of developements.

he is in England guys.... sounds like a good buy at 2- 300 pounds as lots of variables there.

hey johnyl, get on to andy at HVA Factory he will have all the right info

Im UK south £400-1000 dependent on actual condition. They don't seem to go for a massive amount of money even when together.

Well, i paid a little more than that! Although i'm happy which is the main thing, but i'm not sure what it is? It has a torque arm for the rear brake, no stand,& no loop on subframe. It's registered as '86 wr400, frame numbers don't coresponde with anything i've found on the net, being CP149**, engine no 09810*** so would appreciate some feedback, cheers.

Sounds like a CR frame & swing arm/brake set up. Pics would help.

cp is cr frame..yup pics are key! thats about all we need around here!

So, a few key identifying features, CR VS WR:
Stock WR has a voltage regulator, headlight, taillight, rear sub-frame makes a loop at the back, no brake stay-arm.
Stock CR has none of the above electrical, rear sub frame ends with two tubes with plastic plugs in the end, rear brake stay arm

Of course, the ignition could have been replaced...

Years:
if your plastics have any, they change from year to year, so you can pick a year looking at the decals and then shopping for new ones on line.

Also, as otherwise stated, pics help.

Finally managed to be home whilst there's still daylight, here's some photos. Hopefully! (Bit new to all this technology! ) These were taken before I commenced battle with the yokes. Top seized to stem, had to give it some heat to remove. Speaking of which, I see that the stem is secured by a circlip. I'm going to get the yokes powder coated, is it straightforward to remove the stem from the bottom yoke? Or shall I just powdered coat straight over the top of circlip? Cheers!

It looks like a cr frame. Prob. have to press out the stem before powdercoat.

If you don't have proper press, tools and knowledge best to just have it coated over the cllip.
Later George

Powdercoater should have the knowledge to not apply powder to the stem. There is really no good reason to remove the stem unless you happen to be replacing a (gulp) broken bottom triple clamp

acck!...powdercoat over grease in the steering head?...maybe they are sealed bearings or some fancy Swedish high tech, but the powdercoat cookery oven is at 350ish degrees F iirc and grease will leak all over and the powdercoater will have a cow.
Then again, I have never had mine apart so whaddawino?...maybe no grease....but IF there is...

why you clean very very thouroughly or best yet...pop off and replace those real old bearings

Goes without saying that the headstock bearings are going to be replaced. I was referring to the circlip beneath the bottom yoke that secures the stem to the yoke,it's gonna stay and be coated over!

ok good!

....you think that's bad?
you should see me when I take my niece out to learn to drive by doing donuts and slides in the gravel , training for if she/when she nods off late one night coming home after college exams she can automatically correct before it hits the tree...or something like black ice, holy moly, that stuff!.
So eat right!...get your exercise!...anything else I should nag you about, just let me know.
No charge.

And post more pikkies about your restoration...

can I assume you will be taking the triple clamps out to have them powder coated black??
the frame needs to go alone with the triple clamps removed if that was the question
the triple clamps or yokes as you call them will not need the long stem removed, the powdercoater will mask that off to preserve the bearing landing area, but you will need to remove the lower bearing and seal