86 WR 400 clutch

So I rode the 400 today, snow was melting and it was 58F!
The clutch definitely was slipping so I want to get a Barnett setup.
They say: Models that use 7 or 8 plates usually will use 3mm. There are exceptions-CHECK SERVICE MANUAL FOR QUANTITY AND THICKNESS.
Parts manual says 8 fibers, 7 steel. Anyone know?
Thanks, Pete

That's true Pete, It was a nice day in NY today. I rode my 84 wr400 and my clutch slipped too. I'm going to watch this thread and see what to do.
I'm not sure that our clutches are the same, but I need to do something with mine.

The quote was from the Barnett website. they have everything we need

guys... what oil are your using? have you adjusted the inner adjuster to give good freeplay on the lever on the cases? I have worn plates sad springs but it still hooks up. it used to slip using a "light wt 2 -gear oil" but changing to 30wt briggs oil and readjusting to give plenty of freeplay its hanging in ok.

slipping is somewhat unusual unless you really have worn components or oil causing issues. slipping at higher speeds on pavement is a spring (holding pressure) issue where slipping at low speeds is usually a friction issue.
suprize raises a good point as to what oil you are running, unless you know the parts are bad. do you have the basket adjusted correctly?

when I picked up my bike, the PO had 7 small spring washers between the cable end and the clutch lever on the bars? keh? he obviously had no idea about the internal adjustment.

do you still have any play at the end of the actuator arm? is the basket adjusted?

the barnett/steel setup is a good one

I'm using type F automotive trans fluid. The arm on my bike was lengthened by the PO. He added an inch so I'm not sure how to adjust it. How much play should be in the arm?

id give it a few mm at a minimum if not 5. you can adjust the play at the cable once the cover is back on. atf f should be fine.
you want the clutch pack to be completely shut with no interference from the actuating arm so the springs are in full use. I adjust the arm right out till its loose then wind it in till ive got the right amount of play at the case lever and ive got my bar adjuster wound right in. then I can set the bar lever how I like it. there is a fiddle spot where the clutch can drag but not slip and a point where it doesn't drag but can slip. finding the best spot can be a fiddle around. sometimes.. I need to go the steel Barnett clutch soon as well.

So the 5mm is measured at the end of the arm?

Just read all the responses, Thank you all. Motorcycle specific oil, did not check the inner adjustment. I am suspicious of the clutch because it still has the aluminum plates in it. It will be a day or two before i can check the clutch itself. Got sick and home and business piled up.
So, 7 steels and 8 fibers?
Anyone have tolerance dimensions? Appreciate it Pete

86 wr400. 8fibre plates @3mm thick each. 7allu plates @1,2mm thick.
Total clutch pack thickness 32,4mm. Anything less than 31mm thick and with orig blue coded springs will be prone to slipping.
Barnett makes a kit with thicker 3,2mm fibre plates for the pre evo engines. You dont want these, above is what you want.
If pressure plate is very worn spring pressure will decrease can also contribute to slip.
You want an ordinary mineral oil without additives and friction modifiers. Ordinary sae30 works. There are others but im not going into that now.
Clutch pushrod and lever adjustment as per above.
Good luck

When I had problems with my 86 400 clutch,

All Husqvarna parts,

New fiber clutch plates, new aluminum friction discs, new springs, the clutch still felt weak!

The solution from Hans Applegren, Husky Imports in Australia, was to add one more aluminum friction disc to the stack.

Andy already has the solution to your clutch problems,

From his website,

"We have made these up with steel plain plates at either end of the clutch stack - so you do not wear out the pressure plate and hub. It may be necessary to skim the pressure plate - so it is completely flat before fitting. It is also vital that the first plate on to the hub sits flat against the back face."

http://www.hva-factory.com/bottom-e...t-6-spring-evo-type-upgraded-steel-plain-plat

the freeplay being set at a dime at the bar end is correct...but he needs to get it set down at the actuator arm first. then the lever.
5mm should be ok..its kind of a feel thing. long as you can feel distinct play, you are ok..but you dont want any more than whats needed as you are losing precious engagement..

as I said...there is a fiddle spot where the clutch can drag but not slip and a point where it doesn't drag but can slip. finding the best spot can be a fiddle around. sometimes

On the '86wr I got taught to chuck the pressure plate in a lathe and relieve the inside edge of the surface- the little taper there will prevent even plate contact and contribute to slip on those beauties

I know about the free play at the clutch lever.So what do I set the adjustment at on the actuator arm? I disconnected the cable and there is about 15mm of play at the arm.

It should be in the owners manual. You need take off the clutch cover, stick a rod or allen wrench in a hole near the clutch center and break loose the 10mm nut. Then use an allen wrench on the bolt thing in the center to get the play desired.

To be thorough remove a little bolt near the shaft the clutch arm on top of the engine attaches to then forcefully pull that shaft up pulling out the seal. Some of the time the end that pushes on the throw out rod wears severely.