86 500 xc

ill probly b hated for this but...i am making a boardtracker using an 86 500 xc for most of the donor parts. bike runs amd rides but aside from that it would need a lot to restore it... motor is floating in the frame, big crack in swingarm, multiple cracks in frame, all mounting tabs for the expantion chamber are riped loose/ out of pipe. im planing to build a complete new frame to transplant the heart and soul into.
my bigest question is if the rumor about 12v power from yellow wire being a high output 12v capiable of olperating a headlight? or charging a small batterie?
i will not b making any mods that would hinder from a rfestoration later, not even using husky forks or trees, simply the motor tranny and front and rear wheel/tire/brakes.
Any HELP is appreciated! if you dont like my idea, dont bother giving me a hard time, cuz i wouldnt let u ride it any how!!!

Welcome...

Thanks for the welcome. I am not a good speller, or writer for that matter (but I will make an effort). Sorry for making my first post on the defense. Just used to the other forums on the web, full of hate, this will be a new experiance for me.
So from the reserch I have done, it appears that i need a pre-1986 2-stroke dual sport neck or steerig tube with a clear title (non op or the like). I would like to find a complete frame, with triple trees but the trees are not nesicary as i plan to build a springer fork set, which will require a custom set of clamps to be machiend. Does anyone have such a frame they would be willing to part with??? Or can somebody steer me in the right direction???

So I'm having a hard time figuring out how to remove the rear axle...is there any special trick to remove them? Backed off tensioners, removed nut and tensioner plate. Won't budge. Can use the piece of round stock,welded to left side nut, to turn axle. Seams tight. I tried a couple blows with dead blow hammed but it still didn't budge. Stopped because I didn't want to ruin it. Any ideas? Thanks.

put down your purse and hit it, 35t years of rust won't move easy. you can apply some heat to it and that might help some. i mean real heat but remember the grease could catch on fire.

The axle should pull right out. Chances are the axle is rusted / froze to the bearing races or maybe the wheel spacer opposite the drum. Hose it down with some liquid wrench and leave it sit for a few days.

Thanks. Just wanted to make shure not to ruin it with the hammer as I have a tendancy to do that.

No amount of PB Blaster did any good for me. I hammered on it and mushroomed the end of the bolt. Ended up using an angle grinder with the thinnest cutting wheel I could find to cut the bolt on both sides of the engine between engine and swingarm. So now he engine is out and waiting for next steps to get the remainder of the bolt out which seems to be seized to the engine case inserts. The bike was my 82 twin shock parts bike.

Hopefully you will have an easier time of it than I did.

I think post 2 suggests you go back to post one and fix things like not using cell phone text abbreviations, Capitals at the beginning of the sentence, etc. I am not perfect but often paste into an email program and fix up stuff, probably you have an email program or something with spell checker or maybe even punctuation checker.

The yellow wire should be good for 35 watts most likely ac, the bike origionally had a little thing about half the size of a pack of a cigarettes which acts as a regulator. You still don't have a rectifier to get to dc and perhaps a cut out relay.

as I recall the early mags were 6v 35w, something to look into

Rear axle came out with big hamer and pb blaster.
This is the current status of the build. Fabed and bent all of frame except steering neck and forks... cutt off a 79 yamaha

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Looks quite dangerous (in an entertaining way), I like that in a motorcycle. I would consider another brace by the headstock to triangulate it (down tube to spine}, the spine looks very long, and its a surprisingly torquey motor.

Looks quite dangerous (in an entertaining way), I like that in a motorcycle. I would consider another brace by the headstock to triangulate it (down tube to spine}, the spine looks very long, and its a surprisingly torquey motor.[/quote]

It is sleeved with another piece of tube stuffed inside and plugwelded together. Also putting gussets at front and back of upright.
A more recent pic.

I probably should have check compression earlier. It's at roughly 45psi. Need to replace the piston and rings, which I have located. My question is what else should I do while replacing parts? Port and polish? What bearings should b replaced? Would it be money well spent to completely rebuild it(split cases)???

It wouldn't hurt to change the crank seals. My 86 and 87 430's and my '88 250 needed crank seals all 3 were leaking on the left side between crank and transmission. To do that you would have to split the cases. A new waterpump shaft seal in the primary cover, would also be a good idea.

I would match the transfer ports from crank case to barrel. My 430 was way out. I got some flow work on the inlet port and reed block but I don't know the 500 engine, worth a look though. For a 500 on the road I wouldn't touch the port timing, if anything I would try to detune it a touch. I wouldn't bother polishing anything. Squish band would be quite important but again for road use I would favour a gap on the larger side.

Husky Jim, I was wondering if mine were bad anyhow. I had it in the shop for a while, read week r two, when I was mounting seat it cycled the kick lever like I was trying to start it, to check that seat wouldn't bite the back of my leg. A little later I pulled the expansion chamber. About 4 cups of oiled down gas pored out. I check the gear case. Oil was low but no gas made its way in. Do they allow oil to be pulled in by engine vacuum when they go out?

Wildebeest, thanks for input. Planing on matching ports and knife edging as well. Probly won't change squish unless I wind up with a slightly thinner/ thicker head gasket. Will not be changing the port timing. Thanks again.

When the left crank seal is bad, the engine vacum sucks in tranny fluid from the transnission. There will not be any gas mixed in with the tranny fluid and there will be excess oil in the crank case. If the right seal is leaking it sucks in air from behind the stator which causes a high or fast idle, because it is running lean. Yes it sounds like you have a left crank seal that is leaking.