'74 WR250 Low Compression?

That link takes you to the later 250 piston Steve.

The earlier one is here http://www.husqvarnavintage.com/Husqvarna_250_piston_kit_1972_to_1974/p792576_3926767.aspx

Yes, that is the one. Available in the US at Vintage Husky.

let us know how it goes. hopefully different sizes are available so you dont have to bore than whats needed. good luck!

Have You gotten that 74 beauty up and running yet?

The piston was a special order so that took awhile to get here, now waiting for the cylinder to come back from the shop. I just brought the piston down there last week, expecting it done in the next couple of days. I brazed a band around the end of that nice pipe to cover the hole, it just wouldn't fill. I painted it with high temp header paint, it is hanging up in my garage waiting for the paint to cure. So as soon as everything is here I'll get it together and try again for a plate. Don't worry, I'll let you all know when its done and post some pics. Meanwhile, I've been practicing wheelies on the little trials bike.

ya, wheelies are cool.

The pipe looks great! when and where is the art show for the unveiling of the print, and i agree w/the wheelies on the kids bike its closer to the ground

Here is the info on the show where you can view " '74 Husky"

June 12 - Aug. 6

at Saugatuck Center for the Arts
http://www.sc4a.org/

I'm also working on getting it in ArtPrize this fall. I'll post that when I finalize something.

I'm picking up my cylinder today!

Wheelies? My '99 1200 Suzuki bandit would loft the front wheel in the air at will. The first time I rode with my son Joe and his buddies they said Joe your dad does wheelies !! LOL they were shocked to see an old man do wheelies.

Sounds like a well made plan is coming together, congrats. Remember to cure the heat paint on your pipe slowly. Warm it, shut it off, warm it a tad more, shut it off. Or it can peel if we heat it up and keep it running. We learned this lesson on the race car headers.

I see old men doing wheelies all the time, one time a guy passed me on trail riding a wheelie, I was thinking "darn kids!" saw him later at a stop without his helmet, looked like he was about old enough to be my grandpa.

This paint is not supposed to peel, at least that is what the can said...

Anyone have a link to a good video of a engine similar to mine being put back together? This is my first time doing this and I'm thinking it would be helpful. I have the manual, but a video would be nice too.

DONT KNOW ABOUT AN OLD AC HUSKY BUT RM ATV/MC HAS LOTS OF HOW TO VIDS ON YOUTUBE JUST DO A SEARCH THERE ITS THE THE DORK BOYZ GO TO PLACE WHEN THEIR LOST HOW TO FIX DAMN NEAR ANYTHING ON THERE

I was just looking for a recommendation of a good one, there are so many awful "how to" videos out there, more like "how NOT to" videos. But I guess that could be good too, knowing what mistakes to avoid. Some are so poorly done they are painful to watch... it would be really cool to peek over someone's shoulder, someone who knows what they are doing. Sometimes the guys at my local shop give me some tips and show me little tricks that make things easier, something like that.

One trick I have learned on the chainsaws is after the case is assembled check to see if the crankshaft is centered. If it's ok but feels snug. I put a chisel in the counter weights used as a wedge on opposite the crank pin and lightly tap it. This allows the counter weights to become parallel. Then the crank will turn freely. Even when I use the tools for assembling the case the crank can be snug. Just a little tap on the chisel. Now if I need to move the crank side to side to equal it out in the case I install the chisel so the crank won't bend and wrap the crank to center it tad with a dead blow hammer.
Centering the crank and removing the stresses that may occur during assembly is very important. Sometimes it occurs and sometimes it's ok I check it anyway. The crank being skewed in the case makes the engine harder to start, turn over. The little tricks during the assembly makes a happy long lasting engine down the road.

Debate maybe - please be aware that the hone process with adjustable gears unit may not be the best option. Nothing beats a fixed boring bar.

I lost two cylinders one on 430 and one on Maico 490. Both seized upon start up. I checked both bore jobs before assembly. sized checked well
but the they were not parallel to the center of bore. The fixed and locked down cylinder base on a boring bar jig once set up is square. You get
a proper bore. The cylinder set up for the other rig follows the old bore. I watched the whole process and asked questions, but the only way to check this is the fix
a dial bore gauge the base ( we did) and found the problem. This guy says he had 40 years experience. expensive lesson learned when i got back into bikes

I will only have a boring bar redo a cylinder.

The gear driven hone I use is the same as the honing machine only portable. I hold the bore round to .0000" I hold the taper down to .0000" it's dead nuts round with no taper if the operator does it right. You don't need a boring bar. It can be done with coarse, medium and fine honing stones. If your seizing on start up your piston clearance is off or a massive air leak can occur. I'm holding the cylinder bore on center too.
I only trust my own work. I have seen others screw this up before I trust no one.

When the boring bar is done there using my hone anyway. If the amount of material being removed is very little they hone it anyway. They don't use a boring bar.

You guys are scaring me. I have no idea what method they used. I think I'll put it all back together and take it on my truck back to the shop and start it up for the first time there. One more thing I was wondering about, am I supposed to put on the new gaskets dry or with some sort of treatment? I have everything cleaned up and ready to assemble.

Not all machinists are bad. I had bad experiences with one local guy before. Another local shop is good. I just prefer to do my own work. I bored more than my 15 restored bikes. I never had a problem.

dont worry about it, 99 percent of people use a machine shop. not all are created equal but one that does motorcycle work can handle a two stroke bore bore if they are any good.

If the joint faces are good I don't bother, I only use gasket goo(bath silicone) when the cases have been parted with screw drivers!.
Dont worry about the machine shop just ask for testimonials. We have a brilliant one in Bristol (England) Piston Bust, though you would not think so when you step through his door!

Don't forget to run it then let it cool and retorque the cylinder.
Even the new bikes need to be retorqued.

Its not my English it's my spell check it changes words at will.