• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

74 Mag Race Tech Fork Kit

The price is to high!

You can order the parts from Race Tech direct and save some money.

I will tell you, although the Race Tech set up works really well, you will spend a lot of time dialing it in, and it's an oily messy job. And the real problem is, you don't know when to quit tuning.
The set up possibilties are infinate.

Start with your spring rates and sag numbers. Then start tuning the emulators. Race Tech has a spring rate calculator on their web site.

(note: I bought Race Tech springs for my bike, 77 Husky 250CR with 35mm black leg forks, using their spring rate calculator and felt the springs were to stiff for me. I'm currently running stock Husky springs, no idea on the spring rate, but I am getting proper sag numbers. You might want to check your sag numbers before you buy new springs.)

With the emulators installed your oil weight is your only control on rebound damping, so do that first. The emulator does not effect rebound. However, if you change your oil weight later, it will effect your emulator settings.

When you start tuning the emulators you have to consider slow speed plushness over small bumps. This is controlled by the bleed holes in the emulator top plate. You can add holes or solder them shut.

Next is mid stroke like when you hit square edged bump. The emulator starts to open and allows oil to pass, this is adjusted by the preload you put on the emulator spring.

Then bottoming control. The spring rate of the emulator spring and your air spring control bottoming.
Raising the oil level in the forks increases your air spring pressure and changing the emulator spring rate can have a similar effect on bottoming.

If you find your using more than 4 or 5 turns of preload on the emulator spring to control bottoming, a higher rate spring with less preload will be required. Otherwise your mid stroke damping will start feeling harsh.

But again, what feels good to one person will be to soft or to stiff to another. Like I said, when is it as good as it gets?

BTW, Now that you have the front end working like you want it, the rear end will feel like crap and on it goes. LOL
 
Nost Suspension in Cal . They are great I have a friend that has a 74 250 mag done by them that rides great . They also do other years of Huskys as well . You can find the on there facebook page as well . The bike I am talking about is the bike that beat Micky Dymond at the Washougal race with
 
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