• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

630's, check those bolts.

XLEnduroMan

XLEnduroMan

Heroes Ride Huskys. The others follow.
On my TE 630 I found the socket head cap screw (allen) for the left side buddy peg/sub frame broke of at the frame. I replaced it with a 12.9 grade and replaced the other side with a 10.9 grade hex flange. (Only the allen bolts are available in 12.9) I didn't stop there. I replaced the foot peg bolts with 10.9 grade hex flange bolts. I replaced all of these, with loctite, on both of our TE 630's. I recommend people check and upgrade these critical bolts. A cheap $5-$10 insurance upgrade.
 
I actually have been slowly swapping out some of my bolts for stainless. After I lost one of the bolts that holds the ignition on, I really started to wonder. Also... Loctite everything!
 
The very first "issue" I had with my 630 was a lost ignition switch bolt. It happened within the first couple of weeks.
 
Practically every bolt on my bike got checked at the dealer (Upstate Cycle) and had a paint pen mark on it. So far, the only thing that's come loose is the longer bolt that holds on the sprocket cover. It worked loose in the first couple weeks and went missing. I stopped by a local bike shop and grabbed another similar bolt. Nothing else has worked loose, not even the stock sprocket bolts. I HAVE had one screw insert spin in the fuel tank and one in the airbox, silly design there... Neither one keeps me from getting to anything so I'm not too worried about it.
 
Stainless steel bolts are not as strong as grade 8.8. The allen bolt I found broke on my sub frame was an 8.8. I would not use stainless on any critical areas like motor mounts, sub frame, handlebar or foor peg bolts. And yes, loctite everything. :thumbsup:

If nothing else, make sure to loctite the sprocket (26 ft lb), foot peg and sub frame bolts (19 ft lb). Do these torque #'s look correct?
 
After discussion about broken footpeg mounting bolts I wanted to upgrade mine as well. So last Friday I stopped at the industrial supply and got Johngil via text because you can't buy a 'grade 8' in metric and he asked me if I could find 10.9 or 12.9. I was able to find 10.9 in hex head, they are black, and 12.9 in socket head, also black.

I got curious and asked the counter man about grade 8 in metric and he confirmed what John had said, but also that 12.9 was harder and therefore more brittle than 10.9. The harder bolt is better for compression strength but more brittle and thus not better for shear strength such as the footpeg mount so 10.9 it was. He also said SS was quite soft and not nearly as strong as any of them.

I'm used to seeing the cad-plate yellow looking grade 8 bolts so this was all new to me. I was glad I asked.

Doing a quick browse I also found this:

Caution is advised when considering the use of property class 12.9 products. The capabilities of the fastener manufacturer, as well as the anticipated service environment, should be carefully considered. Some environments may cause stress corrosion cracking of nonplated, as well as electroplated, products.​

There is a lot of info here about screw fasteners and bolts here: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/faq.htm

Also an indication that 12.9 should only be considered for specific application although they don't go into it here.
They also confirmed that 10.9 is the equivalent of grade 8 astm.

Here's another good site for info on metric bolts especially for motorcycles: http://www.specbolt.com/technical.html
Their chart indicates that SS is slightly less strong than grade 5, 8.8=grade 5, 10.9 = grade 8, and 12.9 = grade 9

I also found good information on proper torque values and that over-tightening can reduce the tensile strenght capacity of the bolt considerably, and they recommend using have the rated toque value for high strength applications. BTW, M8 = 25ft/lbs max, 17 working.

I have seen elsewhere that M8 should be torqued to 25ft pounds.

So there's today's lesson on metric bolts!!
 
Boy did I get a schooling!

So my next question would be is there a bolt out there with the strength of a grade 8 astm / 10.9 that won't rust? Part of my propencity to stainless is thinking the lack of rust will make the easier to remove and less likely to damage.
 
I'm not a nut and bolt guru, but I've been taught, and learned thru experience, that stainless bolts are not a replacement for good, high grade steel bolts. Stainless galls easily and can sieze, is usually more stretchy than steel and is generally considered equivalent to a grade 2, or maybe 5, steel bolt. I would definitely not use them for foot peg mounts. Grade 10.9 metric bolts should do the trick, and they should be readily available zinc plated. Stainless has it's place, but IMHO not for critical fasteners than need to be torqued and not loosen. Stainless galling can give false readings when tightening, needs lube or anti-sieze, and then you have to reduce the developed torque quite a bit from what your wrench sez. Good old steel for me!
 
This doesn't look good. Bike was at Tri-County.
I had the recalled bolts installed and the still loosened up. Guess these did too.

IMAG0768-1.jpg
 
I agree with Kenneth Webb. Stainless bolts, although pretty, are by no means and upgrade. They are very brittle and do not stretch as regular bolts do. Proper torque is determined by the amount the bolt stretches to provide the correct clamping force. Granted for most things they will be fine but personally I wouldn't trust them for footpegs, sprockets, rotors or anything where safety comes into question. Normal preventative maintenance and loctite should cure all loose bolt issues. Big singles are subject to very high vibrations and fastener torque needs to be checked regularly. There is no "fix" for that.
 
My 2011 SMS630 must have been built on a low air pressure day at the factory. Every bolt on the thing was 1/2 torque. Bolts like my ignition switch bolt were 1/2 out from my test lap around the block. Luckily I did a pre-first ride go through of the whole bike. In my philosophy, all bolts get blue loctite. Motor mounts get red locktite and bolts into brass or aluminum get anti-seize and proper torque. Cam.
 
Old thread bump but any one know the size of the 60ND 02555 (the ignition bolt)? My Husky dealer is hours away and since it's not load bearing or super critical, I'd rather go the lazy route and just grab a generic bolt.
 
Yep, common stuff. On my 630 SMS '11:
- Subframe left got bolt broken, right bolt found loose. I keep checking my tail part a couple of time a week now to see if its shaking.
- Ignition bolts got loose also, lost one.
 
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