449 comments

Do all the 449's from 2011 to 20134 spew oil in the air box
do all 449s flame out. is it imperative to remove the second butterfly to cure the flame out.
Does the ingear with clutch activated creep diminish over time

Spew oil, yes for the most part, switch to mobil 1 0w-40 full synthetic, run oil level about half way in sight glass or look at a oil recirculation kit.
Flame out, yes, adjust the large brass screw about 4 turns out from fully closed, should be better and remove smog junk. No on second butterfly....your choice, adjusting brass screw should make it a lot better. Also have ecu re-flashed and get rid of stock exhaust can, they came lean from factory for emission reasons so fattening them up really helps
Creep, some do some don't, could be an oil issue, try above and see if its better........

Oh yeah, if your gonna adjust the brass screw do the tps reset as well...I had both 2013 te 449 and 511 both had about 7000 miles on them when I sold them. I did all the above and the 449 ran great but still had flameout issues with the 511...The bigger bore made them more finicky than the 449

thanks heaps Teambowless, appreciate your input.

My '13 doesn't never had a flame out issue. I did the race map 2 mod for a little more power but it never flamed out. No butterfly mod.

I did experience a little bit of oil in the air box but not a lot I was very careful not to over fill at all. I recently installed the Zip Ty oil recovery thing for the bling factor. The good thing is I can literally over fill the oil while tipping it over to add even more oil and it never spits oil.

I think I got one of the last ones made and the bugs were pretty much worked out.

My 14 449 never flamed out with map 2. I'm running map 3 now

The clutch creep in gear can be caused by a heavy grade oil. There are also shims which can adjust the clutch clearance of the plate stack (if incorrect)
Some 449s flame out, some don't. Using Map2 will richen the mixture & help.
All ride better without the second butterfly installed
The throttle response is much improved. If you like to blip the throttle before opening it up, or want to be able to control a decent wheelstand on the throttle, removing the butterfly will assist.

Hi Dangermouse, first off, let me congratulate you on the quality how too videos you have undertaken. They are excellent reference material, thank you for the effort.
I have just put in 5/40 this evening and will ride it on the weekend and see how she goes. I am interested in following up on the clutch shims/spacers you mentioned earlier if the lighter oil does not materially improve the clutch drag/creep.
I have also extended my breather hose and taken it higher around the stem head and evacuating behind the motor, sump guard. I will keep an eye on this and oil usage. It this does not work will follow you up on the breather stuff.

Cheers and thanks for the help.

Is there any way that these breather mods can be responsible for the shifting issue? I made my own setup that breathes off the valve cover and goes through a condenser thing but the hose is smaller and the original hose is now plugged.

I removed my clutch pack, measured and sanded and tried up all plates and reassembled. Made no difference in performance.

These bikes have notchy gearbox. False natural is common if your not careful. Friend has a 511 no breather same nothynes

Well I can't really be more "careful". Not sure how one would even be more careful. You pull and push on the lever and I'm pulling it hard and it will only click into second about 2/3 the time. It's super frustrating and I don't know how anyone that raced them could accept that characteristic. If I can't get it sorted I may change to an auto clutch. Then again that might make it even worse unless I just quit using first.

Read this post about burnishing your clutch plates. It might help you. Read the whole post

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1191748-430rr-clutch-drag-is-there-a-solution/page-1

I'll give it a try.

Push up harder with your foot.

I'm pulling so hard. Doesn't matter. Today at a light I sat and pulled first second back and forth over and over. Bike lurching fwd with each change. When I hold the lever down it will eventually notch into gear. But it takes a sec and it's not predictable. When I got home I nosed against the garage and gave that clutch hell. Will see what did tomorrow.

I think you might want to try that when the oil is cold. I thought that's what I read. I could be wrong.

So how did it go norman stitz

ummm.... I think you better google "Norma Stitz" (Enormous Tits).

Well after two burnishing sessions and some fresh 0-40 initial impressions are that it might be better. I want to test more, at full temp and after some oil aging to really say however. I also backed out my brass air screw thing a little and it makes the engines revs hang just a tad, not desirable for riding but it might make shifting a bit more reliable possibly. More on that to come.

Spoke too soon. Banged neutral several times today. Burnished clutch again while riding and seemed to improve at times but not at others. Starting to think there is an oiling problem or something in that case now. Could it be filling with oil and not able to relieve out fast enough?