449/511 Neutral Switch

Does the switch actually perform any function?

On my TE449 it doesn't seem to do anything. There's no neutral light, no starting interlock as there's no clutch switch, no sidestand switch. So I just can't see what the point of it is, unless the engine does something different when it thinks it's in neutral?

I took my switch out to test it, and it seems to have failed in an open position, which I think would be a non-neutral state. The bike runs fine, I'm just wondering if there any point in replacing the switch so that the ecu can at least see when I'm in neutral. I can (try to) start my bike in gear clutch out and itll lurch fowards, so my other thought was that there should be a start interlock and my broken switch makes the ecu think that is in neutral, but if that's the case then i don't see how you could ever start the bike in gear, clutch in, as there no clutch switch...

Any thoughts?

I just took a fast look at my son's 2012 TE511- it has a hydraulically-actuated switch on the clutch lever. I gotta assume that's a clutch safety switch. My 310r has the same setup.

I'd guess (like you) that the neutral switch is for the ECU; maybe it leans it out, à la VW, for exhaust pollution testing.

on my smr 449, neutral light found on speedo meter, but now gone........

I was looking at the parts Fiche and there does appear to be a pressure switch on the clutch lever - that doesn't exist on my bike - I assume a previous owner removed it and shorted the connection so the bike thinks the clutch is always pulled in - perhaps when the neutral switch crapped out they did this so that they could avoid a start-in-gear interlock that the ECU was permanently occurring? Can anyone confirm if the neutral switch is a ground-in-neutral, or an open-in-neutral operation? Mine is permanently open circuit.

The Wiring diagrams also show a clutch switch connection coming into the 9-pin connector behind the light - so there must be some intelligence around that - my suspicion is that the bike shouldn't start in gear without the clutch pulled in. I will have to dig into that and see what they've done. First of all I'll see if I can restore a won't-start-in-gear-unless-clutch-pulled-in interlock, I can do that by finding the clutch switch connectors and also grounding or not grounding the neutral switch.

I also have a thought that perhaps the bike isn't running right as the ECU is thinking that the bike is always in neutral (or always in gear with the clutch pulled in) and perhaps that it altering the mapping/fueling which might impact the running, especially low down. I do feel that the bike doesn't like chugging low revs, if the bike is running in some kind of super-lean idle mode when it's wrongly thinking that there shouldn't be any load (ie either in neutral or with the clutch pulled in) that might give the behavior that I see.

The 2011 models don't have any of the safety interlocks, clutch, side stand, neutral. The side stand auto retract springy thing counts as the side stand as per older ducati's. The 2012 models added a clutch switch into the equation.

The ECU on most bikes is pretty dumb when it comes to interlocks, they're literally all just open/closed switches in series.

That's good info, mine is a 2011 white frame model, so presumably no interlocks then. I'm still interested if my bike thinks is either permanently in neutral, or permanently in gear, can someone confirm in the neutral switch is a neutral=grounded or neutral =open type operation?

Since it's one wire only, I'd *guess* that neutral is indicated when the switch is grounded; meaning it has an internal pull-up resistor probably. IOW, I agree with you.

stick a switch (to ground) on the wire and flick it back and forth to see if you detect a difference maybe. Otherwise, I'd would just leave it alone- basically what you were suggesting in your first post.

clutch safety switch: it's weird that the TC and the TXC have this... but the TE/SMR does not. I'm not sure how a key makes that big of a difference to the safety nazi's.

On the 2011 model, the neutral switch is connected to Pin 10 from the ecu and goes to ground.
For what reason, not entirely sure, but most likely to be for the auto idle system. The ecu might use the signal to maintain a steady idle in neutral....could also be to disregard the O2 sensor in Map 1 while in neutral, also for a better idle...

Only guessing here of course, as mentioned above, the ECUs are pretty basic

2012 model neutral switch is wired to the same pin.
The start interlock is separate to the ecu wiring.
There is just a junction added in the start button wire to the start relay, via the clutch switch.

Danger mouse would you recommend linking the clutch switch out on the 2012 model for abit more reliability confidence or have you not heard them to fail?

You need some way to stop the kids accidentally starting the bike pressing buttons...
Haven't had anyone mention getting stranded by the switch on our page.
Could certainly happen, but would be easy to strip and twist the wires to get home.
Lots of other more important things to be worried about
Like checking the flywheel screws so they don't eat the stator, etc.

What else do you recommend for reliability danger mouse?
I have done the flywheel screws
Taken the second butterfly valve out
Serviced rear linkage
Regular oil and filter changes
All from your you tube vids (top man)
I am just running map 2 and the bike is running very well so happy with that
Thanks

Well, I'm not DM but if you have replaced the flywheel screws you got the major item covered.

The torque limiter- outside of oil changes and crankcase venting, there's not much you can do and it really isn't a huge problem. Check the gear shifter bolt a lot. Put a brake snake on the brake pedal. The one-way valve (2-way actually) on the fuel tank vent has been know to fail... but it's not the end of the earth. I recommend re-routing the venting up to the steering stem like a normal bike, but that hasn't really caught on (and loosen your gas cap to make home if it fails).

enjoy. it's a great bike.

Cheers trench coat

Trenchcoat pretty much covered it there.
Only other thing I'd say is frequent oil changes.
I did my oil every 5hrs (or about 200km ish) & oil filter every 20hrs. (big long filter, plenty of surface area)
I have a replacement engine breather available if you are interested in it.
Stops the engine spitting the oil into the air filter when you fill to the correct oil level (1150ml oil and filter change)
Search 'DMD Engine Breather' on Ebay for the current add. (There is a 449-511 version and a BMW / CCM version)
I ship worldwide.

I’m looking to purchase the DMD engine breather. I’m located in America and can’t seem anyone locally selling it on EBay or any other outlet...Would anyone know where I might look? Many thank in advance.