TE/TC 2x 3 hundo 14 and 17

TX300 and TE300
TE will be for sale asap. I burned through 1 tank today carefully with no skid plate

going again tomorrow to carefully burn another tank--carefully (no skid plate with revised OEM chart jetting set up.

Congrats on a sweet ride! I'm really aching to get my hands on one of them tx3hundos but only time will tell. At this point it's a need more than a want ( at least I think so anyway). The cafe needs a full ride report!

2 days of riding. day 1 100% OEM, ran but was rich and with quite abit of spooge. day 2 went up 1 row and over on box 2.505k alt setting and 60-79 degree f setting. thing did not run for crap....I remebered my 2014 was similar and I noted the float height OEM was spec for mikuni pretty much parallel to the base of the carb I eyballed and dropped th float heigh @ 4 maybe 5mm thing runs good in some regimes great in otheres but for sure good overall.
This makes me believe that most of the internet chatter about how messed up jetting is has to do with the float height being at the max height spec. anyway those who are struggling may want to do this. Also note when I tipped the bike to 45 deg the fuel was pouring out the overflow vent line......after the adjustment nothing. The AER forks are so freaking good from the box, My confidence is rightthere to slam and get over stuff with no worries unlike my initial 4CS dealing

Congrats on the new bike! Do you remember what you went to? Did you change out the needle too? Or is that the next step up on the flow chart?
I was leaning toward the tx for the air forks. Went with the te instead... I know everyone ive talked to is happy with the aer forks...

First hour of riding. This is such a nice bike. EE hand guards, skid plate, pipe guard, cyrca hand guards and trail tech endurance. One of these days the EE rad braces and try and figure out how to get the linkage guard sorted out. Runs alright. Cut the airbox and tomorrow I'll see how it runs. I'd like to hear more on how to change the float level, if can give a guy a lesson.

Fyi, rockymtn sells the ktm/ husky frame guards that go up higher on the frame. I like the acerbis ones ....

I rode mine for the first time today. I had already set the jetting for my area according to the owner's manual + I had to move the clip up one position on the needle. That's it. Ran great. No need to cut the air box. Absolutely no need. Just spend the time to jet it right and its amazing. Note that the mikunis really seem to require you to get the air screw just right -- after getting the idle just up to what to me seems high. But it works. My friend, who knows the mikunis well, was saying "your idle is too low". And once I brought the idle up, then started to adjust the air screw, every thing fell into place. And the air screw seems to really have an impact on the overall responsiveness.
I have the stock yellow spring in it and there is a hit, but it's progressive and controllable. Lugs so low, in fact, it's hard to call it lugging. It's kind of hard to explain, but even when you are in a way wrong gear it pulls through and you never get the feeling that it's going to go the other way and stall. I'll probably end up with the green spring for my area and my preference of trails which are mostly tight twisty single track.
Still vibes a little but I guess it's not as bad as my WR300. Hard to say really.
And I agree with Robert, the forks are freeking good.
I did nothing to this bike other than adjust my levers at a slightly down angle, rotated the bar mounts to the forward position for more reach, and the ergos are near perfect.
I put a moose carbon pipe guard on it, and a SXS slide plate. The SXS is some top-of-the-line stuff. Especially if you compare it to the hydes I've been using on my other bikes. The SXS mounting hardware is top notch.
One thing that was bugging me today, however was that I kept missing the rear brake lever. The tip is tiny, and the lever itself seems kinda long. And me being fan footed doesn't help.

Im sticking with the manual chart so from the original spec I went up one altitude setting and went up one temp setting (leaner). by the book. but like I said I eyeballed the float which closed the valve when its parallel to the carb body and dropped so the valve closes earlier /lower fuel in the bowl.

I'm also exactly by the book, but at my altitude. But I was still getting a mid range burble which raising the clip one position from the book got rid of.
I also sent my 38mm lectron from my WR in to lectron to get the High Velocity mod done. It's still in the mail, but I'm not even sure it's worth it. Though I'm sure that any change of weather conditions will trip the mikuni up and have me singing a different tune about the lectron. At least that was my experience with the mikuni TMX on my WR.

That was my problem on the TE150, once I got the carb dialed the weather would change a little & I was back to square one... No regrets on my lectron!

I dropped my float to close just slightly earlier. I'm gonna try
440 mj
73-43 2nd clip
40pj
adj a/s as needed
I'm at 2200-5000'. Temps 70's - 90's

James Dean AKA JD Jetting has documented this with photos and data. Yes they come high and with the fwd tilt of the carb the height is right at the level of the overflow standoff pipe. Go to JD Jetting and look at his photos. PS my 2014 TE300 with the Keihin was very high as well.