2014 TE449 Still Stalling, Surging and not Running Right

Well guys I am about at my wits end with this bike. I seem to have tried everything to get it to run right and it still is just a nightmare. Here is a little history on my plight thus far.

1. Purchased brand new in California and shipped to Hawaii in December, out of the crate with Map II otherwise all stock runs like a moped with very weak power and flame outs at stop lights and on trail.

2. February, FMF Powercore installed, much better throttle response and more power but still weak for a 450. Flame outs and engine bucking after about 30 minutes of riding. Hard to restart after stalling from flame out

3. March, Map III reflash by zip ty done. More power but still not impressed. Even worse bucking and stalling after motor is fully warmed up. Motor response just feels off and rough at times like a carbed bike that is not jetted correctly. Have tried TPS reset as well.

4. April, JD Jetting Power Surge Controller installed, No difference in power and no change in stalling and hard starting and surging problems.

The bike is completely unreliable, does not run right and the final straw was when out riding yesterday the bike stalled right in the middle of the trail at high speed for no reason and caused my girlfriend to lock up her brakes behind me and crash hard on her head almost knocking her unconscious and bending the whole front end of her bike.

I am not really sure where to go from here. I have $9000 into this bike and its basically a paper weight and not safe to ride. Any advice on a next step would be appreciated. Are there lemon laws for this type of thing? Being out in the middle of the ocean I have no dealers or any support within 3000 miles. Thanks

Chris

I know the feeling. Had the same problem with my 511. As far as flameouts, the FMF made it worse. Race map 3 did NOT help. The solution is Power Commander 5 and an a dyno tune. But, even without the dyno, a PC5 is the way to go.
Don't give up. You're just a few hundred away from a really great bike.

My 511 is bone stock. It ran like crap for the first 300-400 miles which was ridden easy and mostly around town. Somewhere around the 400 mile mark I put it into race map II and haven't had any issues with flame outs since. I'm certainly no expert and don't know why a bike would have such a break in period but I think the more people try to fight it with new pipes, JDT, PC5, RM3 the more they complicate it and make it harder to diagnose. Not sure how many miles you have on it but if you haven't hit 500 yet just wait it out. Once it settles in you will likely love it.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/20...y-efi-system-finally.41069/page-2#post-401697


you may take interest in this thread.

Let me help you in the mean time. You need to unscrew the brass screw on the throttle body to let more air bypass. Unscrew it until the idle is around 2000 rpm. Even stock with race map II this took out 90% of the stalling off idle and when coming to a stop pulling the clutch in.

This is likely your problem. Unfortunately it also reduces engine braking.

If you follow the instructions in that thread it will likely take care of the problem 100%.


Here is what I did to solve my not enough power problem. Race map II>FMF POWERCORE with the loud insert> power commander V with auto tune welded in the stock header> Vented the airbox lid a ton> Zipty nick burson flaming missle fuel AND IGNITION!!! MAP. This bike RIPS! Seriously the ignition map was HUGE difference with the vented airbox lid. I bought this bike KNOWING it was restricted to no end from the factory, and knowing that some easy modifications will make it a beast.

With the above setting, and the brass screw turned out a turn or so over stock. I get ZERO flameouts. Idle is around 1900-2000rpm steady, and there is reduced engine braking. The only way to cause a flameout is to hit the throttle in neutral 4 times in a row quickly.

My next step is to remove the fly by wire throttle plate, as per the thread and add a pod filter instead of a airbox (to make cleaning easier as my factory filter leaks and what not, and get more airflow into the engine)


My bike feels TWICE as powerful as stock. Not even exaggerating.

I feel your pain dude!!!

I love my bike again after the mods on my bike. I was at the point of getting rid of mine after 18 months of trouble.

It's very hard for anyone to know a fault on a bike thousands of miles away is, but this may help.


http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/20...y-efi-system-finally.41069/page-2#post-401697


Also simple things like checking & cleaning earths, battery leads, relay connections etc. would be advised.

Chris,

Have you had any luck tracking down a fix?

Try this zero cost fix. Remove the aftermarket EFI gizmos. Leave FMF on, leave Map Set 3 on. Do a TPS reset. I am not 100% certain the DIY TPS resets are working correctly. If you have access to a dealer (maybe a BMW dealer can???), see if they can do a tool initiated TPS reset. Reset air screw to OEM spec and add (out) 1/4 turn.

Now see what you have.

Sorry, but in my opinion, the JD tuner is a bad investment. The powercomander 5 will completely eliminate your flameouts and restore power to 450 levels.

If you decide to run the power commander, here is the link to our maps:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/zi...powercommander-5-race-maps.33459/#post-315951

Hi Chris, in the photo you posted you still have the O2 Sensor plugged in. When the RACE MAP II was set on my bike the O2 sensor was removed. Maybe this is causing some problems?

For others, re TPS and air bypass, how do you tell what RPM the bike is idling at to accurate adjust the screw?

Interesting. I didn't remove mine when I put it into RM II and it runs fine. Maybe I should remove it.

No not yet, I fractured my foot after a flame out at less than 1mph on a sidehill and I fell over because I was expecting the bike to go forward, the bike crushed my foot between the ground and bike so I have not been able to ride for the past month and have pretty much lost all motivation on the bike for now.

Thank you for the continued advice everyone, I think my next step is to get a power commander and try the butterfly mod. There is still a part of me that wants to love this bike and be able to enjoy it. My friend here who has the same bike is always out riding his with no problems and its making me jealous haha.

Sad to hear, and something that was in the back of my mind with my own bike.
I thought it would be the hanging idle that 'got' me though, as I had several high-speed trips into the bush when it didn't return to idle as expected.
The flame-outs just made my angry, the engine has seen the limiter a few times on restart.....

All the best with healing up, stick with the bike though, hiding behind the efi faults is an awesome bike!!

For what it's worth, I would try the butterfly mod first, it's free & reversible. The PCV is a good unit, but you already have the JD.

It's interesting to read all the trials and tribulations that so many people have had with these bikes. In hindsight when I think back to the very first couple of
rides on my bone stock 2011 TE511, it actually ran pretty well and impressed the hell out of me, I mean aside from the oil spewing all over the motor because it was
grossly over filled from factory. I experienced a couple minor flame outs but I was in love with the responsive FI motor. I put the FMF Powercore 4 on about a month after
purchase and noticed a significant increase of power in the low to mid range but also had an increase in flame outs. So my next add-on was the JD Tuner. Now I've stated
this before and I'll say it again, The single most significant, instantanious power increase that I have felt was after adding the JD Tuner. I mean it wasn't like " wow... you know
I think it feels different"??? It was more like "WOW......that's what I'm talkin' about". It was just more instant power, for me anyways. The only problem was I couldn't shake those
deadly flame-outs and for me, it always did it at the worst possible time like on a steep hill or rocky step-up. I had too many get offs/spills that were directly caused by flame-outs.
So after reading a lot of useful info on this very site mostly from Tinken about the PCV's, I decided to just suck it up and get one. Bottom line is the PCV cured all the FI related issues
and made the bike run as it supposed to run. I later added the Auto Tune and the was a sound investment as well. BTW, Thanks Tinken/ZipTy for your helpful contributions.
Now, what the @#@#@ is this butterfly removal stuff all about? Anything that will make it run even better than it does now (which is pretty damn good) I'm all for...

The PCV is a known good fix for nearly all the problem bikes, I just set out to try & fix mine without any outlay.
Bottom line, I did & found it more responsive down the bottom as a result.

As always, you are welcome.

@Jerbear610 -Removing the secondary butterfly will give TC like throttle response with the obvious trade off of electric smooth progressive throttle response which comes from the secondary design.This design emulates the old XR600 primary and secondary carburetor systems, but with efi.

TE's are purposely leaned for emission control, they are not problem bikes.

Your engine is still dangerously lean across the power band, there is no getting around that without either new mapping or piggy back mapping. Stock output for a MY11 449 is about 31bhp, 20% less than a typical 310R, this is due to the extreme lean condition and will not change until more fuel is added. Your secondary butterfly is probably making matters worse, but doesn't mean that all bikes should have them removed as if it is some "miracle cure". Eventually owners will realize this through experimentation and either leave the TC throttle or replace the butterfly.

I would call 'dangerously lean fueling' a problem bike!
If my standard bike using the standard supplied slip on & running Map made for that part is dangerously lean it will be a concern for Husqvarna, not me.
I have no surging, not flat spots, certainly no pinging & good plug colour, I reckon I'm pretty safe.
Surely you are not suggesting that every TE series bike need a PCV, why don't Husqvarna supply one when sold?
Also, if my bike only had 10 more HP than a good pit bike I would not have bought it, 2011TE 449 is listed as 46 HP in the dealer release.

46hp, no, that is incorrect.

I believe if you look at a stock 511 and JD tuned 511 you will see that it produces close 34hp stock and 45hp tuned. The 511 also produces a few more hp than the 449 which would account for the 31hp dyno. Also as you can see, the stock mapping on a 2011 drops off near 7000 rpm which is something that is cured by adding additional fuel. My point being that the TE versions do not run anywhere near their true potential until properly fueled.


http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/jd-efi-6x-fuelers-now-available-at-motosportz.20353/#post-177891