2014 TE310 backfiring and bogging when hot

Not sure if this is related but my fan has been working since replacing the OEM one but doesn't seem to be coming on at a lower temp like my other buddies OEM's do on their 310's....also bike is starting up ok and running well until it gets hot. I have 1200 miles on it and was wondering if the valves need shimmed if this could be causing this to happen...when blipping the throttle its backfiring and bogging in all gears except 1st...this just started happening just my last two rides.....any troubleshooting tips?

probably too lean? when my ibeat settings were low on my 2012 it would pop on decel really loud when the bike was warm. I know yours is a 2014 with a different efi, but maybe richen it up.

injector clog is another potential to put into your trouble shooting book

What he said^^^

if that was this issue wouldn't it act the same way when it was cold too? I'm going to change the ignition coil as well....ordered one today...thanks! I'm frustrated!![/quote]

i leaned and richened it up and no luck

Replace your temperature sensor first. We also had issues with this year model. The intake valves stretched and then bent over. It is worse when it is hot. Our fix was to re-machine the head and manufacture new intake valves.

Ok, I have that sensor on order too...I fried my fan and fuse and since replacing both its been working but doesn't seem to be turning on at the right temperature...thanks

Just to be clear, on your bike the fan is controlled by a simple thermal switch, in a fitting in the coolant hose, and which doesn't appear in the main schematic. OTOH, the ECU gets the engine temperature from the CTS in the cylinder; this sensor directly affects how the bike runs.

If your fan is coming on late, take a look at your thermostat too- maybe your bike is overheating.
edit: change "look at your thermostat" to "check for coolant flow"... because you might have a bad impeller or some other blockage. The fan isn't gonna come on until hot water is getting to your radiator. Just pop your radiator cap (cold), start the bike... and wait & watch. You should see strong-flowing coolant in a couple of minutes (not just fizzy bubbles).

Ok so changed the thermostat and temp control sensor and bike still bogging and backfiring just as it was when it warms up. Going to try a new ignition coil today....wish me luck

Clean your injector, like was suggested.

Confirm your coolant flow; then forget about the fan... it's distracting you.

Think about a vacuum leak. or maybe a head gasket. Something that is increasingly worse with warm up time. In-tank fuel hose. bad CDI or pickup/trigger. (sorry for the stream-of-thought... it's 5am local, and I'm slightly drunk)

It could be your coil, I suppose. Back in the day, a bad coil could get intermittent when it was hot. But it seems to me that coil reliability has increased in the last couple of decades. So: I dunno.

good luck. (oops... you replied while i was editing)

Yep done with the fan for now. Will check coolant flow this am as well, wouldn't it be a consistent problem if it was a dirty injector? Wouldn't it do it when bike was cool as well?

sorry... I was editing my post above when you replied (I added a few weird thoughts)...

injector- not necessarily: during a cold start the ecu may be giving your bike extra fuel, and enough is atomized to make the bike run normally. The closer you get to stoichiometric levels of fuel (meaning just enough for normal combustion) the more the droplets of fuel would screw things up. or fuel line idea might come into play (your fuel psi drops)
(edit: >hic< sheesh, I'll fix this tomorrow)

....(can't stop: MAP or air temp sensor? TPS going bad?)

BTW, I am not a FI expert by a long shot. I like carbs much better... even though I'm good with electronics. Hopefully one of the FI guys will chime in.

Check the TPS voltage. Richen it up, i.e., move it to increase the voltage.

I would hesitate to start changing otherwise set settings that have worked just fine until this point. As some others have noted certain things can change and affect running. Wiring/short in ignition circuit and fuel injector. Easy enough to check for air leaks... manifold, air filter not seated, etc... Any short can reduce spark and loss of fuel will make it run worse. Did you do anything to the bike before this? Any crashes and potentially chafed wires. Another guy had wires from stator shorting after melting up against back side of header.

Nope did nothing and changed no settings..bike was running completely fine up until now? Hopefully I get it sorted out soon!

So ran the bike down to local Husky shop....bike is stalling at 212 degrees and throwing a code for temp sensor control and I just put a new one on yesterday? I'm stumped....could it have something to do with the stater plug? They switched out the ECU's and still threw the same code??

Strange since you replaced the sensor. Hard to imagine a bad new sensor but if it's throwing a code for it. But maybe 212 is where it should die so it doesn't exceed it and is normal operation for the sensor. At that point I would start looking at your coolant flow. Pull the cap and once the engine is warm you should see it flow. If not maybe the thermostat is sticking. If the thermostat was sticking and not flowing that may be a reason your coollant temp sensor is not sensing the heat and requesting the ECU switch on the fan.

I replaced the thermostat as well yesterday with the temp sensor? I also put a new ignition coil on today and that didn't work either. Looks like I'm not going to church tomorrow lol

Bummer..... Maybe the injector or really bad fuel? Wonder if the fuel pump is flaky. Just throwing out possible things though never had those issues myself as of yet. If ran well up to 212 and then quit I'd think not necessarily fuel related but maybe as it leans out it spikes hot and craps out.