2012 txc310 wont start

My husky stalled out on the trail and I cant get it to start again. It this to me once before and the spark plug was bad. replaced it work like a champ for a few hours. So I replaced it again. With no luck. It has spark (might be on the weak side). It was running perfect till It stalled gassing out of a turn. Ant ideas where to start.
thanks,

If you have a spark then your problem is most likely fuel. Check to see if you have fuel pressure. If not, start with the tank - make sure you have enough fuel, then the battery to see if it is fully charged, then check fuel pump fuse, then fuel lines, then wires to the fuel pump (look for loose/dirty connections or shorting out wires. If everything else checks out, test the fuel pump. I've heard of fuel lines coming off the fuel pump. A dirty injector is also a possibility. If the fuel circuit is good you may have a timing issue. Check for a sheared off cotter key on the flywheel. Good luck.

Thanks, fuel pump runs, And I'm getting fuel out of the injector. It back fires now. But still wont run or even attempt it. So I am going to check the valves and the Key next. I have a funny feeling it may be a timing issue.

it is a little weird that '12 310 has a "bad" plug or plugs. was the plug itself defective or was it carbon fouled? If fouled, something is probably wrong with your fuel system (bad mapping, injector, pump, sensors etc) or timing/coil... ....OR- maybe you're burning oil (guides/seals, rings).

if the plug itself was bad (eg broken insulator) the newer plug should be giving you a fat blue spark (it is easier to tell a blue or white spark from a yellow spark when you're in the dark).

good luck.

if you truly think it's a timing issue, check to make sure you have not sheared your rotor key.

Plug cap, is it a resistor type, 5k ohms?
They break down and cause weak spark as the resistors resist more.

Try it as they're cheap.
I've had several go bad so don't rule it out.

The spark isn't very strong. I have a new cap and and coil one the way. I know the plug is resistive. Didn't think the cap would be too. Picture of the plug

I believe he has a "stick coil" which sits on top of the plug.

edit: I did not see where Buchshot1 had already ordered the coil & cap above (Either I forgot to refresh my screen before I responded hours later; or else he is still on probation) and indicated that the '12 TXC 310 has a separate coil/cap. oops.

Well have we ruled that out? It is a 4 year old dirt bike.

it's very possible that there is some kind of RF noise-suppressing resistor in there, and it could be bad I suppose- but I doubt there's a plug cap.

We have not ruled anything out at all though. ...and I'm not even sure if it's a stick coil (aka coil-over-plug)

Well that would be my first port of call with the information given.

It isn't a coil over plug(stick coil). I'll have a new a new coil, wire, and boot tomorrow.

Fingers crossed.

Well the coil, wire, cap, and new plug. Didn't fix it. Next I'm checking the flywheel and auto decompression

So the flywheel key sheared

well, the sheared key is a symptom probably, not the cause.

I believe there is a taper on the shaft (and the key is for alignment)- so lightly lap it with a fine polishing compound or maybe valve grinding compound. And tighten that nut good.

Search for a thread on this, because I've never done it.

good luck.

If key sheared. Clean the shaft off good and inside taper of flywheel with carb/parts cleaner or lacquer thinner.

Use a blue, red or black sharpy. Color the shaft and inside of flywheel.

Use fine lapping compound and make sure no blue, red or black left on either.

Clean everything with carb and parts cleaner.

Install new key.

Use permatex green high temp sleeve retainer adhesive.

Take deep well socket to tap flywheel on to shaft to kinda seat it first. But don't get carried away.

Torque nut to specs.

Let sit overnight with no oil contact.

Last time I did this, puller wouldn't release fly wheel till I heated it up some.

Nother trick I do. Is ignition cover. I use hose clamp and tighten around whole cover so it works as like a handle. Especially removing and installing when the stator magnet keeps pulling it.

Here is an old cover just to show how I use a hose clamp to remove and install covers.

Comes in super handy if you have the end bearing on crank.

Yup, what he said!

Loctite 609 is the same stuff. it is green. Do not use Red loctite.

Zip Ty sells a nice flywheel holder. Get it.

Do not use an impact gun.

Hey, get back to us when you can and let everybody know how things are going.

Sorry I have been deployed, I'll try this this week and let yall know