• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE449 Owner Observations

gillies

Husqvarna
AA Class
New here. Bought a TE449 about a month back and thought I'd post up my experience with and impressions of it. Got the bike at Motocity in Avondale, AZ for $6,900 OTD. Felt good about the price - maybe others have done better.

I consider myself an experienced "B" level rider. Been riding dirt off and on since 1982. Never competitive, just trail riding for fun. Past bikes that have been in the dirt include an XL185, XR200, KTM125, YZ125, F650GS, R1200GSA. This is my first new dirtbike and certainly the most capable.

Me this weekend after spending the day on light MX track and desert trails to set up the suspension:
IMG_0649.jpg


I have been interested in the TE model Husky for several years. Always liked the idea of a dirt bike that came ready to plate. A true dirt bike with street credentials, as opposed to a street bike trying to play in the dirt. I have found, however, the bike to be more trail/fun oriented than expected.

My first day out on the bike proved a disappointment for me. It was delivered in stock trim with the O2 sensor and standard mapping. The dealer had removed the vapor recovery system. I took it to a location north of Phoenix called the Mile Markers and rode two track, sand wash, and single track. There were many rugged hills, relatively steep, with lots of rocks - typical AZ desert stuff, if you know the area. Anyway my main disappointment was with the engine performance. The power was sluggish and the engine tended to stall at the worst times. I would be picking my way up a steep single track hill in a bunch of rocks and the engine would flame out - crud!!! That aint no fun! This happened several times and the recovery efforts simply wore me out. I also burned up a good set of riding pants on the unprotected header pipe and ripped one of the truely worthless stock hand guards completely off in a minor spill. The first two fixes were easy:

Cycra Pro Bend hand guards. Not the cheapest or the most expensive. I found them easy to install and solid:
IMG_0648.jpg

IMG_0633.jpg


Wrapped the header. It's wearing okay so far, but I think I'll go the P3 carbon route when replacement comes:
IMG_0646.jpg


A trip to Motocity and I learned that a little electronic plug came with the bike that would set it to "race map II". I was given the plug to install and told to remove the O2 sensor. With that accomplished, I did a 70 mile desert trail ride around the town of Wickenburg, AZ with a group of guys from ADV. Boy, what a difference! The engine ran much better - way stronger and no more flame outs. Had a good ride but noticed that I was slip sliding all over the place now that I had a little power/speed. I asked all the guys on the ride what kind of tire they recommended, and the answer was Dunlap Geomax MX71. Ordered tires online at Rocky Mountain, along with some Dunlap ultra heavy tubes.

While I waited for the tires to arrive, I got in another ride at Bryant Park in Cottonwood, AZ. This day was with my little brother, who is a far more accomplished dirt rider than I. He used to race ADRA and some moto-x, so his skills are in another league from mine. He was on his YZ250 this particular day, as he said he needed to get the two-stroke out and running. We got in some good single track, fast desert trails, and played on a little mx track with good whoops and berms. The TE ran fine but, again, I was losing traction all the time. On top of that, we traded bikes, and that was when I realized just how poorly set up my bike really was.

My brother's YZ did EVERYTHING better. It danced over rock gardens, tracked well through sand, and remained level over whoops. Not the TE. My bike dropped into the rock gardens and wallowed around as it struggled to find its way out. Lines in sand were vague and imprecise. And whoops, well it was just plain freightening as the bike lurched front to back as though I were going eight seconds on some kind of wild bronco. My brother did a few laps on the TE as well. I rode up to him impressed with the YZ and asked what he thought of my bike. All he did was laugh. No comment; just laughter. Dang, that hurt. Some work was in order.

I got home and placed an order for bar risers to improve the ergos. I got on this and other forums to begin my study of suspension setup. I reviewed the TE owner's and shop manuals for sag and clicker settings. When the tires came, I spooned them on. When the risers came, those got installed. Called my Bro, and arranged another trip up the hill to Cottonwood.

New MX71 tires - great improvement:
IMG_0638.jpg


Touratech bar risers - much more comfortable standing:
IMG_0637.jpg


The objective of this day was to set the suspension. I'll get right to it and say that the bike, as valved, is meant for relatively light trail riding, IMO. I spent the day constantly looking for more compression and rebound out of both fork and shock. With my brother's help, and a couple well-tuned bikes for comparison, we got started.

I was looking for three things from the suspension:

1. The ability to dance over rock gardens, instead of getting trapped in them. This ultimately required a significant increase in compression damping on both ends. Now, instead of a soft stroke through the rocks that let the bike settle in, the firm ride keeps the bike up on top and eases the way through.
2. The need for stability in deep sand. I'll say that without a doubt the new tires made a huge difference here. Comparing the Dunlap MX71 to the Metzler Karoo is like apples and oranges. Frankly, I cannot in any way take the Karoo seriously. It is a bad tire. In addition to the tires, increased compression damping combined with dropping the forks one notch down in the clamps did wonders for the bike in sand.
3. It has got to ride level through whoops. This required playing with rebound damping more than anything. More and more rebound damping in the shock, and a bit less than expected in the fork. Initially, the bike would stink bug through whoops badly and practically launch me over the bars through whoops, even when on the gas. Progressively increasing rebound damping on the shock began to solve this problem, but something was still missing. I rode my brother's YZ and 450X and discovered the answer - the TE fork rebound was set too tight. The fork was simply not extending fast enough off the top of a whoop to hold the front of the bike up as the rear tire moved into the whoop. Easing up on the fork rebound settings did the trick and the bike can now attack a set of whoops with relative ease.

Here are my settings. Obviously this is a very individual thing, but I found that the bike probably should be revalved for my taste and riding style, as I am certainly on the firm end of all the settings. Note that the "clicks" designated below represent back, counter clockwise from the fully closed, clockwise position:

Rear Race/Rider Sag: 4 1/4 inches

Shock High Speed Compression: -1/2 turn

Shock Low Speed Compression: -2 clicks

Shock Rebound: -1 click

Fork Compression: -3 clicks

Fork Rebound: -5 clicks

With the mods mentioned, I am far more happy with the bike. I can now "attack" the trail, as my brother puts it. The setup allows me to ride through obstacles with confidence; whereas before, I was tentative on a bike that felt tentative.

More improvements are in my future. The bike is fast. In drags with the 450X it pulls right along with it, but I feel the power delivery could be improved. Specifically, I need a more immediate hit off idle and low RPM in order to lift the front over whoops and other obstacles. The current power delivery off idle/low/mid RPM is very linear and electric. I need a bit of punch. The hope is an FMF Power Core will do the trick. If not, maybe the JD will be in order. As I have not experienced either, it is only hopeful speculation on my part based on what I read here and elsewhere that these parts will help.

I like my bike. Best of all, I like getting out and riding. It has been a while. Too much road riding, and not enough dirt. That has changed, and I'm sure the Husky will serve me well.

All tuned, and only a broken blinker and scratched Cycra to show for it!
IMG_0645.jpg
 
New here. Bought a TE449 about a month back and thought I'd post up my experience with and impressions of it. Got the bike at Motocity in Avondale, AZ for $6,900 OTD. Felt good about the price - maybe others have done better.

I consider myself an experienced "B" level rider. Been riding dirt off and on since 1982. Never competitive, just trail riding for fun. Past bikes that have been in the dirt include an XL185, XR200, KTM125, YZ125, F650GS, R1200GSA. This is my first new dirtbike and certainly the most capable.

Me this weekend after spending the day on light MX track and desert trails to set up the suspension:
IMG_0649.jpg


I have been interested in the TE model Husky for several years. Always liked the idea of a dirt bike that came ready to plate. A true dirt bike with street credentials, as opposed to a street bike trying to play in the dirt. I have found, however, the bike to be more trail/fun oriented than expected.

My first day out on the bike proved a disappointment for me. It was delivered in stock trim with the O2 sensor and standard mapping. The dealer had removed the vapor recovery system. I took it to a location north of Phoenix called the Mile Markers and rode two track, sand wash, and single track. There were many rugged hills, relatively steep, with lots of rocks - typical AZ desert stuff, if you know the area. Anyway my main disappointment was with the engine performance. The power was sluggish and the engine tended to stall at the worst times. I would be picking my way up a steep single track hill in a bunch of rocks and the engine would flame out - crud!!! That aint no fun! This happened several times and the recovery efforts simply wore me out. I also burned up a good set of riding pants on the unprotected header pipe and ripped one of the truely worthless stock hand guards completely off in a minor spill. The first two fixes were easy:

Cycra Pro Bend hand guards. Not the cheapest or the most expensive. I found them easy to install and solid:
IMG_0648.jpg

IMG_0633.jpg


Wrapped the header. It's wearing okay so far, but I think I'll go the P3 carbon route when replacement comes:
IMG_0646.jpg


A trip to Motocity and I learned that a little electronic plug came with the bike that would set it to "race map II". I was given the plug to install and told to remove the O2 sensor. With that accomplished, I did a 70 mile desert trail ride around the town of Wickenburg, AZ with a group of guys from ADV. Boy, what a difference! The engine ran much better - way stronger and no more flame outs. Had a good ride but noticed that I was slip sliding all over the place now that I had a little power/speed. I asked all the guys on the ride what kind of tire they recommended, and the answer was Dunlap Geomax MX71. Ordered tires online at Rocky Mountain, along with some Dunlap ultra heavy tubes.

While I waited for the tires to arrive, I got in another ride at Bryant Park in Cottonwood, AZ. This day was with my little brother, who is a far more accomplished dirt rider than I. He used to race ADRA and some moto-x, so his skills are in another league from mine. He was on his YZ250 this particular day, as he said he needed to get the two-stroke out and running. We got in some good single track, fast desert trails, and played on a little mx track with good whoops and berms. The TE ran fine but, again, I was losing traction all the time. On top of that, we traded bikes, and that was when I realized just how poorly set up my bike really was.

My brother's YZ did EVERYTHING better. It danced over rock gardens, tracked well through sand, and remained level over whoops. Not the TE. My bike dropped into the rock gardens and wallowed around as it struggled to find its way out. Lines in sand were vague and imprecise. And whoops, well it was just plain freightening as the bike lurched front to back as though I were going eight seconds on some kind of wild bronco. My brother did a few laps on the TE as well. I rode up to him impressed with the YZ and asked what he thought of my bike. All he did was laugh. No comment; just laughter. Dang, that hurt. Some work was in order.

I got home and placed an order for bar risers to improve the ergos. I got on this and other forums to begin my study of suspension setup. I reviewed the TE owner's and shop manuals for sag and clicker settings. When the tires came, I spooned them on. When the risers came, those got installed. Called my Bro, and arranged another trip up the hill to Cottonwood.

New MX71 tires - great improvement:
IMG_0638.jpg


Touratech bar risers - much more comfortable standing:
IMG_0637.jpg


The objective of this day was to set the suspension. I'll get right to it and say that the bike, as valved, is meant for relatively light trail riding, IMO. I spent the day constantly looking for more compression and rebound out of both fork and shock. With my brother's help, and a couple well-tuned bikes for comparison, we got started.

I was looking for three things from the suspension:

1. The ability to dance over rock gardens, instead of getting trapped in them. This ultimately required a significant increase in compression damping on both ends. Now, instead of a soft stroke through the rocks that let the bike settle in, the firm ride keeps the bike up on top and eases the way through.
2. The need for stability in deep sand. I'll say that without a doubt the new tires made a huge difference here. Comparing the Dunlap MX71 to the Metzler Karoo is like apples and oranges. Frankly, I cannot in any way take the Karoo seriously. It is a bad tire. In addition to the tires, increased compression damping combined with dropping the forks one notch down in the clamps did wonders for the bike in sand.
3. It has got to ride level through whoops. This required playing with rebound damping more than anything. More and more rebound damping in the shock, and a bit less than expected in the fork. Initially, the bike would stink bug through whoops badly and practically launch me over the bars through whoops, even when on the gas. Progressively increasing rebound damping on the shock began to solve this problem, but something was still missing. I rode my brother's YZ and 450X and discovered the answer - the TE fork rebound was set too tight. The fork was simply not extending fast enough off the top of a whoop to hold the front of the bike up as the rear tire moved into the whoop. Easing up on the fork rebound settings did the trick and the bike can now attack a set of whoops with relative ease.

Here are my settings. Obviously this is a very individual thing, but I found that the bike probably should be revalved for my taste and riding style, as I am certainly on the firm end of all the settings. Note that the "clicks" designated below represent back, counter clockwise from the fully closed, clockwise position:

Rear Race/Rider Sag: 4 1/4 inches

Shock High Speed Compression: -1/2 turn

Shock Low Speed Compression: -2 clicks

Shock Rebound: -1 click

Fork Compression: -3 clicks

Fork Rebound: -5 clicks

With the mods mentioned, I am far more happy with the bike. I can now "attack" the trail, as my brother puts it. The setup allows me to ride through obstacles with confidence; whereas before, I was tentative on a bike that felt tentative.

More improvements are in my future. The bike is fast. In drags with the 450X it pulls right along with it, but I feel the power delivery could be improved. Specifically, I need a more immediate hit off idle and low RPM in order to lift the front over whoops and other obstacles. The current power delivery off idle/low/mid RPM is very linear and electric. I need a bit of punch. The hope is an FMF Power Core will do the trick. If not, maybe the JD will be in order. As I have not experienced either, it is only hopeful speculation on my part based on what I read here and elsewhere that these parts will help.

I like my bike. Best of all, I like getting out and riding. It has been a while. Too much road riding, and not enough dirt. That has changed, and I'm sure the Husky will serve me well.

All tuned, and only a broken blinker and scratched Cycra to show for it!
IMG_0645.jpg

Hi Gilles,

You have done well to get where you are with the bike.

A couple of comments.

1. Rider Sag works better at higher levels around 120mm due to the CTS having the effect of not squatting the rear end under power.
2. An FMF Q Core Muffler and JD 6X Tuner combo will knock your socks off with the difference it will make.
3. The P3 Pipe Guard is definitely the go.
4. You need revalved suspension judging by where you like your clickers. The taps are nearly fully closed !

A few pics of my TE511.

Good luck with the bike.

SAM511

TE511 007.JPG

TE511 001.JPG

TE511 011.JPG
 
Excellent post, thanks. I bought one of the first TE511 in the NW. I have since put over 2200 mainly off road miles on it and flat love the bike. Putting muffler and JD kit on it will completely transform the bike power wise. Also you do not need to remove the o2 sensor on this model when running the power up plug. I found the stock suspension very good. Yes, it is on the soft and almost loose side but works very well when set up right. That said mine is off tot he suspension tuner as i want it 100% and it needed stiffer springs for me anyway. Looks like you are well on your way to getting it sorted. As for your brothers YZ is is an off road bike, minus everything your bike has for street and e-start and, and, and so it really is apples to oranges. But with a little work you can get your Te to be everything you hoped. It is a great platform. Enjoy. :ride:

Tips:

- Make sire the air box seals well and inspect for leaks, it is possible to get the corner of the foam to not line up right on the far side.

- Set your sag longer than normal. or better yet get the 2012 progressive spring

- Get the JD tuner, makes a HUGE difference in performance

- Different bars made my bike feel a lot better. I like the Trailtech woods bend ones. Cheap, look great excellent euros and STRONG.

- Do not overfill with oil, check hot. if you do over fill it will blow out the breather into your airbox and make a mess.

- "Bag" filters (screens) need almost no attention. Check them every once in a while just to make sure nothing is in there. I have seen nothing on them.

- Valves seem rock solid on this bike and I tend to hammer my bikes some.

- Never had it over heat or even get hot, you will be testing that more than me but seem very cool running for a modern 4st.

- EZ to reset the TPS but simply unplugging your battery for a few minutes, seems to be worth doing once in a while. (Thanks for the tip "Some dude")

- if you ride long trips or real remote a light weight battery in your pack makes sense. Also build some little jumper cables to tuck under your seat. Never had a problem but not asking for one ether.
 
good report.

My TE i've fitted a set of 2011 TC449 forks had them resprung and revalved. The rear shock has been shortened by 4mm like the 2012 bike and has been resprung and revalved. I've got the JD tuner and like you i wanted a bit more hit out of the corners to lift the front a little easier. I've changed my spark plug to an iridium this did make a difference to my former TXC449 making it a little crisper off low revs. I've also adjusted my JD tuner from stock and am yet to ride the bike.
 
Hey Gillies, How much do you weigh? The risers seem like a good idea possibly and I like the touratech pipe guard for sure. Luckily I tuck in the pants, so no meltings just yet.
 
Sam511, Can you share where you have your suspension setting at? Also, what tires are you running in those pictures? Motoz?
Just installed the Touratech risers like Gillies did, very easy and nice fit.
 
Sam511, Can you share where you have your suspension setting at? Also, what tires are you running in those pictures? Motoz?
Just installed the Touratech risers like Gillies did, very easy and nice fit.
Sam511, Can you share where you have your suspension setting at? Also, what tires are you running in those pictures? Motoz?
Just installed the Touratech risers like Gillies did, very easy and nice fit.
Sam511, Can you share where you have your suspension setting at? Also, what tires are you running in those pictures? Motoz?
Just installed the Touratech risers like Gillies did, very easy and nice fit.

Rear Tire is (as always these days) a Pirelli MX Extra 110/100X18
Front Tire in the photo is also a Pirelli MX Extra, but I have changed preference lately to a Pirelli MX32 Mid Soft Front.
It seems a better all rounder where the MX Extra (Front) seem to be more hard terrain oriented.

Suspension for my 100Kgs is as follows.

I am only a 53 year old trail rider these days but I do get up to speed OK and plenty of it with my 2 sons.
I am still loving my sport and my TE511. :)

FRONT FORKS
Spring Rate Racetech 0.48 (standard is 0.46)
Fork Fluid Motul Factory Line 5 WT
Fork Fluid Volume 660 ml
Fork Fluid Height 120 mm
LS Compression 11 clicks
Rebound 12 clicks - 2 clicks slower

REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
Spring Rate Kayaba 5.3 - 260mm (standard is 5.1 - 260mm)
Static Sag (with full tanks) 50 mm
Rider Sag (with full tanks but no gear) 120 mm
HS Compression 1 1/3 turns
LS Compression 11 clicks
Rebound 13 clicks - 5 clicks slower
 
Nice looking bike and good reporting ... And you're certainty at the right place for help with getting that bike dialed in even more ... Engine and suspension ...

How does the CTS feel to you?
 
Sam,

Your bike looks great! Total porn! I'm digging the Scotts damper and bar clamps big time! I will take the advice of some more sag in the rear, as that is where I still need some work. Otherwise, I agree a revalve may be in order. The FMF and JD will also happen - it's just a matter of $$$ at present.

Hi Gilles,
You have done well to get where you are with the bike.

A couple of comments.

1. Rider Sag works better at higher levels around 120mm due to the CTS having the effect of not squatting the rear end under power.
2. An FMF Q Core Muffler and JD 6X Tuner combo will knock your socks off with the difference it will make.
3. The P3 Pipe Guard is definitely the go.
4. You need revalved suspension judging by where you like your clickers. The taps are nearly fully closed !

Good luck with the bike.
 
Thanks for all the tips! I agree, the YZ is not a true, entirely fair comparison. It did, however, give me a bike to compare with, along with my brother's 450x. The YZ suspension has been professionally tuned, the X has not. My brother actually complains about the YZ being too harsh for long trail rides, as it tends to beat him up after a while. His X is more compliant and really the bike I was trying to emulate - it had the YZ characterisitcs without being so stiff. I really, really hope the FMF slip on and JD tuner do all that's claimed because I definately see them in my future. Hopefully no one got the idea I was slamming the bike. My intent was only to give an honest assessment of it, based on my taste and riding experience. I really like the TE. I better - I've got $6,900 invested in it. But to love it, I've got to sort it out with more time in the saddle and a few more $$$.

Excellent post, thanks. I bought one of the first TE511 in the NW. I have since put over 2200 mainly off road miles on it and flat love the bike. Putting muffler and JD kit on it will completely transform the bike power wise. Also you do not need to remove the o2 sensor on this model when running the power up plug. I found the stock suspension very good. Yes, it is on the soft and almost loose side but works very well when set up right. That said mine is off tot he suspension tuner as i want it 100% and it needed stiffer springs for me anyway. Looks like you are well on your way to getting it sorted. As for your brothers YZ is is an off road bike, minus everything your bike has for street and e-start and, and, and so it really is apples to oranges. But with a little work you can get your Te to be everything you hoped. It is a great platform. Enjoy. :ride:

Tips:

- Make sire the air box seals well and inspect for leaks, it is possible to get the corner of the foam to not line up right on the far side.

- Set your sag longer than normal. or better yet get the 2012 progressive spring

- Get the JD tuner, makes a HUGE difference in performance

- Different bars made my bike feel a lot better. I like the Trailtech woods bend ones. Cheap, look great excellent euros and STRONG.

- Do not overfill with oil, check hot. if you do over fill it will blow out the breather into your airbox and make a mess.

- "Bag" filters (screens) need almost no attention. Check them every once in a while just to make sure nothing is in there. I have seen nothing on them.

- Valves seem rock solid on this bike and I tend to hammer my bikes some.

- Never had it over heat or even get hot, you will be testing that more than me but seem very cool running for a modern 4st.

- EZ to reset the TPS but simply unplugging your battery for a few minutes, seems to be worth doing once in a while. (Thanks for the tip "Some dude")

- if you ride long trips or real remote a light weight battery in your pack makes sense. Also build some little jumper cables to tuck under your seat. Never had a problem but not asking for one ether.
 
In all honesty, I can't tell.

I do have a question, though. The owner's manual says to keep the chain tightened to 5mm play. I spin the rear tie to find the tight spot in the chain and adjust from there. Is it really acceptable to keep the chain so tight? It's just SO different than any other bike I've had before.

Nice looking bike and good reporting ... And you're certainty at the right place for help with getting that bike dialed in even more ... Engine and suspension ...

How does the CTS feel to you?
 
In all honesty, I can't tell.

I do have a question, though. The owner's manual says to keep the chain tightened to 5mm play. I spin the rear tie to find the tight spot in the chain and adjust from there. Is it really acceptable to keep the chain so tight? It's just SO different than any other bike I've had before.

Yes, the CTS keeps the chain constant, no way to screw up a main shaft or hub. Also I seem to be getting better chain and sprocket life than any bike i have ever had. Might be a nice side benefit.
 
Hi This is my first post on here,im frustrated sitting in front of the computer awaiting delivery of my new te449 ,this is the longest any 7 days of my life orderd last fri 48 hours to go!
 
Just browsing to get a heads up on some of the issues and tip to hit the trails reving .i have'nt ridden a bike for a couple of years had a little issue with prostate cancer(anyone guy over 45 get the test its painless) cant wait to get back on the bike and back on a husky after a 25 year abstenance in the company of kawasaki and ktm
 
In all honesty, I can't tell.

I do have a question, though. The owner's manual says to keep the chain tightened to 5mm play. I spin the rear tie to find the tight spot in the chain and adjust from there. Is it really acceptable to keep the chain so tight? It's just SO different than any other bike I've had before.

Gilles,

IMO the stated 5mm is unobtainable in the real world.
10mm-12mm is closer to the mark.
SAM511
 
Here's a question: what other options do I have for rear blinkers on the TE449? I crashed and broke the lense on my left rear blinker. Called the dealer and was told Husky only sells the entire blinker assembly for $27 but not just the lense. Okay... I want my blinkers. Can't say why. I just want 'em. But $27 a pop for lenses has got me thinking there might be a better replacement option. Anyone got a suggestion?
 
Hi This is my first post on here,im frustrated sitting in front of the computer awaiting delivery of my new te449 ,this is the longest any 7 days of my life orderd last fri 48 hours to go!

Howdy. Looking forward to your thoughts and tweaks on the bike.
 
Just browsing to get a heads up on some of the issues and tip to hit the trails reving .i have'nt ridden a bike for a couple of years had a little issue with prostate cancer(anyone guy over 45 get the test its painless) cant wait to get back on the bike and back on a husky after a 25 year abstenance in the company of kawasaki and ktm

Welcome to the group of TE449's! We are all learning and sharing as we go, more each day. Let us know when you pick it up.
 
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