2011 TE310 issue

Hey all,

I have a bit of an unusual one. Once the bike is warm and I've been riding for a while, it will die. But it is only if I ride down a long incline. It will fly up a big long hill but when I roll down the other side and get to the bottom and give it some throttle it is like someone has turned off the key..nothing. Sometimes a splutter but doesn't back fire.
If I turn off the key, give it 30 seconds turn back on, kick in the guts it fires up and away I go....
The first time this happened I found the hot start plunger in the throttle body had jammed on a bit, so cleaned it up, put a smear of grease on and reassembled it.
Next ride same problem. Oh yes this is with a full tank of juice

Ok here are my thoughts

Maybe temp sensor- but why only while coasting downhill?
Is there a lean angle sensor- don't think husky has one?
TPS way out so on a long downhill the ECU freaks out?
Injector issue- leaking or dribbling while coasting downhill?

Before I throw money at this to try and fix
Anyone seen this before?
Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks Evan

Something moves. Install fuel pressure gauge and ride with it a bit. Play with electrical harness try to duplicate stall.

Your fuel pump inside the tank may have popped out of its holder, preventing fuel pickup when the fuel "level" changes on an incline.

My 2011 was doing the same thing recently. Zip tied that pump to the holder and all is well so far.

Also- is the fuel pump the original one that came with the bike? As in-has it ever been replaced? Many 2011 bikes had wonky fuel pumps whose internals will swell and seize when hot, only to shrink back down after some rest. Mine did this also-I replaced it with a California Cycleworks unit.

Thanks for the replies.

I haven't checked the fuel pump. I have had issues with after market fuel pumps before so replaced with an original item. The zip tie mod is for an earlier model but will check to see if the fuel lines etc have popped off etc...

I hear you. When I was experiencing the problem, my buddy said "check the fuel pump holder" and I said, "that was for an earlier model". I had to eat crow and tell him he was right lol.

To put a finer point on it, the same day it happened I had a tip over onto a sold rock surface. Bent the shift lever and everything. I'm pretty sure that's when it happened.

Mine's an '11 as well.

Quick question-

While the bike is running,is the fuel pump constantly running or does it switch on and off as fuel pressure is required?

Runs constantly

It runs when the engine is running....all the time.
It bleeds off excess pressure through the regulator.

If your pump is shutting off, that is your problem!

The pump in my 2010 TE250 used to shut off when I hit logs or big whoops when it was new.

I replaced it 5 yrs ago and it has been fine since.

Not sure if it is shutting off, obviously hard to hear while kitted up on the trail,
I checked the fuel pump last night, it looks fine , all the line etc look good, it might be getting hot and slowing down but don't see how rolling down a hill would cause this?????
This is the problem and throwing parts at it until it's fixed could get a bit expensive.

Still think that it's a sensor problem will the engine revving faster than the throttle input. ie engine braking....

Might have it sorted....

I was checking fuses near the battery and the 20amp fuse has a bit of white corrosion, so I pulled it out a few times and turned the key on....nothing
Gave it a jiggle and the dash lights came on. Pulled it out and tried to give it a clean up and it basically crumpled. The corrosion was obviously pretty bad...
I'll buy a new one tomorrow and give a test ride this weekend
Woohoo

Still not sure why this would only surface while ride downhill... still fingers cross as this would be a cheap fix

let us know

That is why I suggested you to install fuel pressure gauge. Install and temporary attach in location that you can see while driving. It is easy with quick connector fuel lines bike has....

Evanandlee, I'm working on a 2013 TE310 that shows the same symptoms such as stalling when hot. I pulled the spark plug and found it fouled from a rich mixture. I also noticed it is the standard plug installed at the factory, and not the iridium version as indicated in the shop manual. I'm going to change the plug out with the iridium unit and see if this clears up the hot/rich condition that makes it stall.

Update

Finally got to take the bike out for a ride and it is no better, actually it came to a dead stop and now won't restart...
Looks like the fuel pump might have totally shit itself as now it won't cycle on when you turn on the key.
Not sure if it has been the problem all the time and would just surface while riding downhill and not drawing fuel to the injector so maybe putting pressure on the fuel pump...
Going to order a new one tomorrow
Another question, will the bike still run properly if the wires connected to the fuel tap and disconnected? One has broken off so not sure if the ecu will see this as a issue thinking it has an empty tank???

Thanks Evan

Update 2

Pulled one of the 15amp fuse out and same as the main 20 amp it was corroded and fell apart. Replace it as well as the other 15amp fuse and fired up the bike... fuel pump back to life... got to try test with a big ride this weekend

I have to check my fuses!

Put silicone grease on the connections to prevent this.

Still stuffed.
Did hear the fuel pump struggling and making a weird noise so I think it binds up when it gets hot so ordered a new fuel pump today.
On another note, electric starter jammed on and won't disengage, hopefully not a hard or expensive fix....

It will be an easy fix if you can unjam it once you remove it.

I have one stuck together to this day on my workbench. I cannot get it apart. had to replace flywheel gear and sprag.

You can always pull the starter and put a cap on it and kick start it if it is too expensive.

Why and how could it jam? Could you still safely use the bike while the one way (sprug) is stuck?