2011 Te250 Fuel Failure

Hi guys. I have a 2011 TE 250 and the fuel pump died in it. I replaced it with an aftermarket pump that was supposedly for that model. When I went to start it, it run but a bit rough. Now it won’t turn over at all and the display reads fuel failure. I can’t afford the $1200 for an official fuel pump. Does anybody have any suggestions please?

Well, I'm about to put a CA cycleworks pump in my 2010 TE250.

I will let you know how it goes.

When you turn on the key does the pump prime? Can you hear it run?
Also, take it out and make sure the neither the wires nor the fuel hoses popped off.

The CA cycleworks pup seems to work fine.

I swapped to a different pump housing and it seems like this one has a slightly higher fuel pressure regulator because the bike seems to run a little richer on the bottom.
????

Anyway, bike starts easier than ever now. halfhearted kick gets it going when warm. Nice trade off.

The pump wouldn’t prime. Sounds like it wanted to but wouldn’t. I ended up buying another aftermarket pump, fitted it and it runs like a dream. I’m still shocked at the failure rate of the factory pumps though. Random unrelated question now I’ve got it running again. What oil does it take? I’ve pretty much never ridden it and someone else has done all its oil changes and I can’t find anywhere on the internet what oil I need to buy to change it.

10w50 100% synthetic. think also about changing the oil filter (hf116). check air filter also...

after a few oil-related failures on the (original Italian xlite) race team bikes here in the US, they switched to Mobil 1 zero-40 euro car oil (yeah, 0W-40; btw- not the japanese car stuff) for increased oil flow. They weren't having oil pressure problems, but flow problems.

CH user Tinken (ex-ZipTy engineer/machinist) convinced me and a bunch of us here. I've have 7700miles on my xlite with zero problems now. Not absolute proof but there you go. (btw, I'm not at race speeds very often though).

many threads around here about this too.

good luck.

ps- your bike is an xlite.

Make sure you get intimate with the oil change procedure as the bike only takes .8 qts and needs a lot of oil changes.

well, i agree with that- but are you sure about the oil amount?

I've been putting in 46ml more than what i *thought* was the recommended amount (900ml) for a total of 1qt or 946ml. shit, if I was only supposed to put in 0.8qts (25-26oz) than I've been overfilling by 6 or 7 ounces (euro: 200ml).

That's a bit more substantial than my 1+ oz overfill I've been adding- just because my graduated cylinder has ounces.

I'm gonna hafta check the manual I guess.

.8 ltrs or 800ccs actually. My bad. Also, i leave the filter in for 3-4 changes. Add a touch more if you change the filter.

Anyway, whatever puts the oil level at midway on the sight glass.

But not 900cc? Shit... now I gotta look.

I get confused between my xlite and my son's 511 (1100cc IIRC). Getting old sux.

900cc for me puts it over the top of the sight glass.

yeah... I go for just under the top of the sight glass. Half way down is my min. (and then if I add ~4oz/120ml of oil- it brings it up to just under the top).

I looked at the service manual; the recommended fill is 900ml with a filter change, and 850ml without. Since I always change the filter, I go big. In addition, the 310r has that weird oil return system which takes 1oz more at least. The top of my graduated cylinder is 946ml (1qt) so I just go with that (and being the engineer that I was... I am auto-magically suspicious of round numbers like 900cc).

I feel slightly better with a bit over 900ml than less, on these engines with a tiny crankcase. Sight glasses rule, 'cause that's where some engineer wanted the oil level- regardless of oil volume.