• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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250-500cc 2010 husqvarna wr 300 pushrod breaking Clutch Problems

LBBKserg

LBBKserg

Husqvarna
A Class
So I purchased a 2010 husky wr300 and it keeps having breaking the adjustable pushrod that goes through the middle of the clutch. It appears it gets grind down near where the rod meets the actuator arm and then eventually it snaps. It's hollow where the rod goes not sure how it gets shaved down.
I cannot find anywhere or anyone knowledgeable on why this happens. I've replaced the rod and the arm 3 times it runs good for about 2/3 solid rides before it breaks. Change the oil every ride and there is heaps of metal shavings on the drain magnetic plug/oil.
image4.jpeg
number 19 is the rod 20 is the armimage2.jpeg
when new its a solid rodimage3.jpeg
exact same spot it breaks eveytime
image1.jpegwhere the rod meets the arm gets chipped everytime it breaks
 
I have a 2011 WR300. I have been riding it since I bought in February of 2012. I have a different clutch cable, a Motion Pro Terminator. The rest is all stock. The nut on the end of the rod should be adjusted so that there is a tiny bit of free play. I tightened mine down, then when it touched the rod, I backed it off about a quarter of a turn. Then I adjusted my clutch cable after that. Never had any problem like that. Over 500 hours of riding on the same clutch actuator parts. Also make sure that your clutch actuator arm is just a tiny bit over a 90 degree angle from your clutch cable in the resting position.
 
e="Dirtdame, post: 628265, member: 518"]I have a 2011 WR300. I have been riding it since I bought in February of 2012. I have a different clutch cable, a Motion Pro Terminator. The rest is all stock. The nut on the end of the rod should be adjusted so that there is a tiny bit of free play. I tightened mine down, then when it touched the rod, I backed it off about a quarter of a turn. Then I adjusted my clutch cable after that. Never had any problem like that. Over 500 hours of riding on the same clutch actuator parts. Also make sure that your clutch actuator arm is just a tiny bit over a 90 degree angle from your clutch cable in the resting position.[/quote]

my first time ever seeing a adjustment on the clutch like that i used the stock cable and tried a motion pro replacement cable that came with the bike
I thought it had something too do with the free play of how i ended adjusted it (fairly new on doing maintenance/riding dirtbikes) i figured out to back it off about a quarter and eye the arm to be at 90 degrees after the second rod broke
then I feel like I dialed in the freeplay at clutch lever and at the rod adjustment (did not know how to at first) when u rev it its at around 1/8inch when in neutral, and it felt better than the last time it broke thought i figured out (i did not replace the arm on the third actuator arm new rod though ) as they are spendy and take a couple weeks too get and i didn't really know if a little chip in the actuator where the rod touches it actually affected it ( can anyone clarify if something like that would affect my situation)
so thats pretty much on whats going on I'm waiting for a new rod and arm to come in and try it one last time its getting quite annoying i spent the whole summer waiting on parts as i sold all my other bikes is it just my installing errors or is there a bigger problem in the clutch part of the engine where id need to split the case? thank you!
 
I can't imagine what the problem might be, unless it's misalignment due to either the case being worn where the actuator rod sits, or a worn bearing...:excuseme:
 
I Just replaced the rod and arm in my 04 250. Doesn't even look like the same part! Mine was just a bit worn on a 04 that was raced pretty hard for years. The new arm is a few mm longer (like the clutch arm mod) and there is a pin where the flat spot is on the old one.

The rod I received from Halls was a solid piece - no section on the end with a smaller OD.

should be 8000A0610 for the rod and 8000A0336 for the new shaft.
The only thing I can think of is the shaft bearings are worn?? Any slop in the shaft without the cable hooked up?

Just a note - When you do the push rod adjustment with the new arm there is no "free play" at the clutch arm. It just rotates CCW freely. I adjusted it so it crosses 90 degrees as others have said.
 
CCP said:
I Just replaced the rod and arm in my 04 250. Doesn't even look like the same part! Mine was just a bit worn on a 04 that was raced pretty hard for years. The new arm is a few mm longer (like the clutch arm mod) and there is a pin where the flat spot is on the old one.

The rod I received from Halls was a solid piece - no section on the end with a smaller OD.

should be 8000A0610 for the rod and 8000A0336 for the new shaft.
The only thing I can think of is the shaft bearings are worn?? Any slop in the shaft without the cable hooked up?

Just a note - When you do the push rod adjustment with the new arm there is no "free play" at the clutch arm. It just rotates CCW freely. I adjusted it so it crosses 90 degrees as others have said.
Click to expand...

yeah those are the exact # im ordering, yeah i dont understand how its grinding in there, is the shaft bearing need the case to be split? not really sure what you mean by "slop in the shaft" I have been having this problem since i bought the bike and have no more contact with the seller.
 
I cant seem to find any bearing that would be located where the rod goes through it feels quite hollow when i poke around in there
 
There are 2 roller bearings and a seal which hold the shaft. (#27,28 and 29 on the crankcase drawing) The seal and bearing on top, and a smaller roller at the bottom which the lower end of the shaft fits into.
So, If you install the shaft without the cable hooked to the arm, it should feel solid in the case. (no movement other than rotation)

IMG_0412.JPG

This is the way it should line up when installed in the case, so it's hard to figure how the pushrod could be worn where it is. Did the pushrod look like the one in the pic when new?
 
CCP said:
There are 2 roller bearings and a seal which hold the shaft. (#27,28 and 29 on the crankcase drawing) The seal and bearing on top, and a smaller roller at the bottom which the lower end of the shaft fits into.
So, If you install the shaft without the cable hooked to the arm, it should feel solid in the case. (no movement other than rotation)

View attachment 83456

This is the way it should line up when installed in the case, so it's hard to figure how the pushrod could be worn where it is. Did the pushrod look like the one in the pic when new?
Click to expand...

i believe thats on the other side of the case? I took off the basket did not see those(i'll check and take it apart again when i can do not believe I will have time until the weekend pretty Strict schedule right now) yes its a solid piece when freshly installed and i take the cable off when installed it last timeIMG_6455.JPG
this is what an oil change after a couple of hours looks like its grinding every single rod the exact same way as the picture the other ones ended up fully snapping in the exact location the crack is in the picture above
 
Yeah - the bearings are on the other side. You have to split the case to see them but you should be able "feel" if somethings wrong by rotating the clutch arm.

looks ugly - These motors are usually bulletproof.
 
CCP said:
Yeah - the bearings are on the other side. You have to split the case to see them but you should be able "feel" if somethings wrong by rotating the clutch arm.

looks ugly - These motors are usually bulletproof.
Click to expand...

ah okay any recommendations on tools I would need to purchase to split the case?
 
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