2009 SMR Exhaust modification

Firstly, great new site!

I've re-worked the dual exhausts on my 2009 SMR510 and thought I would post up a few pics to show it's pretty straightforward if you're thinking of doing this..

Firstly, all the rivets were drilled out and the centre section was tapped out at the exit end using length of wood. The centres were then chopped with grinder at the entry end exposing the cats, which are welded solidly into the entry end section.


The cats were then cut from the entry end. You can see the mesh is really fine and very restrictive..

View attachment 7299
Your engine is trying to breathe through these..


Next I sourced some stainless 1 1/2" baffle tube and it was welded into the entry side of the cans folding the existing material to form a path for the gases into the baffle..
opened up the other end to fit neat and snugly into the end caps, packed with baffle packing, re-anodised the outers and re-assembled using 4.8mm x 6.4mm alloy rivets. I likey!

Yes, I’m actually thinking about doing it to my 610

I think it'll be night and day once the bike is reassembled. Aside from the cat there is a multi-chamber and also under 1" exit dia. I'd read a few posts re gutting them and was a bit reluctant etc but once the grinder started spinning...

Hi Eric. for some reason didn't get your reply notification?? Results are excellent, saved a bunch of weight, noise is certainly acceptable. Flows a hell of a lot better and really wakes the bike up. I found it was def lean afterwards so went for a PCV and a custom map at the dyno shop. LOADS more go! If you have ibeat or a dyno dealer that does you can get it adjusted without the PCV cost. My only regret is that I didn't seal the ends where the rivets go with some heat resisting sealant. Otherwise perfect

Yes on SMJ! Real sorry but again not getting your reply in alerts? ibeat will be fine for the 09 bike. You can do seat of pants adjustments or find a dyno that has that software. Your bike will def run lean and pop off throttle after gutting the cans. I couldn't find a dyno shop with ibeat that so went for the PCV custom map on dyno. It goes SO much better now, you'll love it The rear fender is a 2010 with the 2010 LED tailight, it bolts straight on with some work on the indicator supports. I fitted the 2010 headlight with the halo bulb. Again, a simple fit.

Hi what gearing are you using , my 2010 has 15 -42 as std , done the exhaust strip out mods, can you run them on the std setting or will they run too lean

I'm on 15/43. I think 44 would be better. I did buy a 14t front but it was revving too high fro street use over any distance. You'll def need to get the air/fuel checked. You might be lucky but I'd suggest lean. Didn't find a dyno shop with ibeat - to allow them to adjust the 3 points of mixture with the stock ECU - so got the PCV.

hi moto 66 i am in kendal cumbria , motosupplies is 10 miles from me and says i will need to buy a power commander to map it correctly as the std ecu is just a basic fuel adjustment ecu, is this wrong or is he correct with his info. Ta, Where abouts in the uk are you, have you a contact phone no. i can ring you on if thats ok. jules, kendal

hi where did you get your pc from and whats the cost of the unit , does it come with every thing in cluding disc for home remapping

Hello mate.

Still no notification in alerts?? annoying. IF, big if, you can find a dealer with ibeat software then you can get it tuned on a dyno there. It'll only tune 3 ranges of your map. PCV does something like 200. I tried extensively where I am in Southampton and around but nobody had it. Not even a place that tuned supermoto bikes specifically. So you can either.. a. Buy the ibeat software package and play with it, tuning by a seat of the pants ride after ride type adjustment or b. Get a PCV and get a custom map done on the dyno. Don't bother with Auto Tune, if you have the bike as you intend to leave it re pipes/engine state etc a custom map is by far your best bet.

I paid around £500.00 for the PCV, fitting and one hours dyno time with a custom map. I'm a busy bloke away from bikes and just don't have the time to fart about. Plus I wanted to know it was right. The dyno guys were cool and said bring it back as many times as you like until you're happy. I went back once for a bit more fuel added bottom end. Used it a lot since and SO happy. Grin factor you know? If I were you and you trust the dyno shop, get the PCV and a custom map. Paying out hurts yes but riding time's better than pissing about with a laptop in the garage.

Best advice I can give you mate. Any other questions let me know

Hey moto66, I don't understand one step in the process. After removing the cataytic converter, what prevented you from simply reinstalling the sliencer as it was before? Why is the baffle tube necessary?

So no aluminum welding is needed for the process? Because i can only weld iron/steel.

Is it leaking gases or sucking air through the cracks?

And I really can't justify buying a PCV, when a complete Arrow slip-on setup is only a few euros more... Is it really lean, like: if you don't change the A/F mixture, you can't feel your cats are gone?

No, aluminum welding at all, the only welding should be on stainless. I did this mod on my SMR, the lean spot shows itself off idle in the form of hesitation seems to run fine everywhere else prior to a tune.

By the way I have 2 gutted stock 2010 cans shortened bout 3in each and they look real good if someone is interested in buying them cause its no easy task gutting them and shortning them just the stockers being shortened makes the bike look so much better. They was run on my new bike maybe a month before I went single fmf. I'm fixin to list them on ebay I guess they just been sittin around in a box so might as well sellem .

And what exactly needs to be cut out/through? Only the cats?

And is a baffle necessary, or is a straight tube just as good?

Mine are completely gutted. There just a pain in the ass to get them apart and cut. My single fmf is still way louder than when I had the gutted cans on . No you dont need a baffle in there some people are welding a straight tube in there or baffle tube. More the flow the better

So i guess a baffle just helps dampen the sound more than a straight tube does? Because I have no idea where I could buy a baffle ?
I guess a normal straight tube will just be as good then? (if it isn't too loud for society that is )

Hi any idea where can I get these 2010 Led TailLights replacements?

at the husqvarna dealer?

By the way,Moto66: how much did that 2010 rear fender cost? To mount the 2010 led taillight on my 21009 (i already bought the led taillight, cost me 95€)

You can get the baffle tube off ebay . I forget the diameter but yeah you can leave it hollow like I did trust me its not to loud at all. Theres totally diffent sound and loudness when using the fmf single. The single is lot louder than the twin cans but I like it loud sounds mean the single has a very deep tone. I didnt want to bother with putting a lot of money back into the stock cans after cutting them cause I knew eventually I was gonna buy an aftermarket can. The stock smr head pipe is very good in size so you wont gain anything from buying a full exhuast .When going aftermarket all you need is the can and the fmf fit the bill perfect.
I was looking at the husqvarna cans with ecu at first and they were gonna cost bout a grand and the ecu I dont think does much if anything its a gimmick part as far as better performance goes I think. I think I paid like $360 for the fmf ti 4.1 and think you can get the powercore one for bout $100 cheaper. Good thing bout the fmf is it comes with 2 inserts so you can have quiet to semi loud to loud loud with nothing in there like mine is