• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2008wr250 Clutch Noise

MR54L

Husqvarna
A Class
2008WR250 CLUTCH NOISE, sound like the bottom end is going to fail, I pull the clutch in and the noise drops off by 80%, let the clutch out and its back. the bike has not been started for ten months. on first start up the clutch made this horrible noise like the big end is shot. Bike goes ok, went for a ride and this noise is driving me insane. I change the oil in the box and the noise will not go away. WTF HELP ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
 
I'd start by removing the clutch cover and having look ... Guessing it is the clutch ... Sure it's not a bearing?

Also, standby for more ideas as I'm sure as there are many more riders here who can help ...
 
Thanks Ray-Ray, I have never had anything like this in 30 years of dirt bikes. The bike was fine prior to parking up, and now I'm lost with this one?
 
Thanks Ray-Ray, I have never had anything like this in 30 years of dirt bikes. The bike was fine prior to parking up, and now I'm lost with this one?

I've parked a perfectly good running bike before also and let it set too long and would have some issue with it after it was started ...

Did the clutch action feel weird or anything when you rode it?
--

We're in a different time zone from the west and they will be waking up before too long ;)
 
everything feels fine, everything works fine, just this noise that sounds really bad ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
 
I am with Ray, start with taking the clutch cover off and maybe pull apart the clutch just to inspect everything.
 
With the clutch cover off, rock the clutch basket side to side to determine if the main clutch basket bearing is bad. If you say the noise partially goes away when the cluch is pulled in or disengaged and the bike is static. Is it as loud with clutch out while riding?
 
It is as loud with clutch out while riding and at idle, pull the clutch in and the sound drops off
 
Is it a squealing noise like a bearing?

I'd look at the throw out bearing. It could be trying to spin and having needles not rotate while it doesn't have the pressure of pushing out on the pressure plate against the springs. Then when you pull in the clutch, it would have a lot more pressure on it, which might free up the bearings a bit. That's really the only thing I can think of that could be making a noise that would change depending on clutch being engaged or not.

Maybe it was leaned to the right against a wall (lowering the oil level against the throwout bearing)? Or sitting on a stand with slightly low oil? Or maybe a bit of water had gotten in there from the breather? And the bearing rusted as the oil dripped off it over time?


If that's the problem you can fix the whole thing for about $10, and only need one tool (an 8mm t-tool)...just lay the bike on the right hand side and you won't even have to change oil again.
 
did you sort the issue? im after a clutch basket for my 360 as its notched and the bearings were bad, did the wiggle test.
so talon have 2007 250 baskets now as far as i can tell it should be the same basket as on the 2002 wich will fit the 360... but halls quote a different number for 07 8000 A6185 and 02 800086860 but the hubs are the same numbers and so are the clutch plates.

soo if the plates are the same that means the fingers are the same and there are 8 flexible couplings should fit right?... CONFUSED.com

sorry to bump an old thread but reluctant to start yet another new one.
 
did you sort the issue? im after a clutch basket for my 360 as its notched and the bearings were bad, did the wiggle test.
so talon have 2007 250 baskets now as far as i can tell it should be the same basket as on the 2002 wich will fit the 360... but halls quote a different number for 07 8000 A6185 and 02 800086860 but the hubs are the same numbers and so are the clutch plates.

soo if the plates are the same that means the fingers are the same and there are 8 flexible couplings should fit right?... CONFUSED.com

sorry to bump an old thread but reluctant to start yet another new one.

Hello,

am just also on the subject and looking for replacement for the clutch hub CR250 1999.
On your topic I found out the following.
8000 86862 Clutch Basket cpl has been replaced by 8000 a6185 and fits CR250 2000-2004 WR250 2000-2013 WR300 2009-2013
8000 86860 Clutch basket cpl gear pair (z 27/69) is inclusive of primary ratio and fits CR250 2000-2004 WR250 2000-2005

friction discs and clutch plates are the same after 2000 for 2-strokes

On my 1999 CR250 the only difference is the amount of friction discs and clutch plates, they are thinner but the overall thickness should be 35mm
 
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