• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2008-2010 Husky SMR 450/510 Cheap Axle Sliders Guide (Fabricate Spacers)

Holland

Husqvarna
A Class
Hello Everyone,

I've been working on getting some axle sliders. Since I'm a cheap cunt (after all, I'm Dutch) I'm doing that the cheapest way possible. So I ordered myself some skateboard wheels from China for €7, got some a threaded M8 bar, and selected some of my M8 nuts.
I quickly came to realise it wasn't plug and play. Of-course you can just more or less assemble them, but since everything about this bike is done right, I didn't want to make it look like a monkey wrenched those things on there. Since I'm a 4th year mechanical engineering student and have access to engineering software like Autodesk Inventor I came up with the following designs for spacers. My measurements of the bike's specifications and such are 100%, but ofcourse that doesn't mean it's 100% the same as your bike.

so what's important:
-fabrication at your own risk
-should fit on 2008-2010 Husqvarna 450/510 SMR
-you're free to use anything I post here, but please don't spread without my consent (or serial produce, the obvious stuff)
-If you'd want I can send the drawings / 3D models
-you'll need access to a lathe and lathing skills, or know someone who has/can
-units are metric.
-made to fit skateboard wheels with the following specs: outer diameter: 53mm, thickness: 30mm, axle inner diameter: 14mm, nut area inner diameter: 21.5mm, deepness of nut area inner diameter: 10mm
-any questions feel free to ask
-orientation in photo's is like you're riding it. braking side is right side, shifting side is left side, front tyre is front side.

tools and materials needed:
-2x hexagonal socket 13mm
-a lathe with aluminium blades for cutting, grinding and chamfering, and a drill-bit preferably exactly the diameter of your treaded bar (M8, 8mm-ish, mine was 7.9mm)
-a grinder with cutting plates for aluminium, or a milling machine, or basicly anything you can get your hands on to clean away excess metal of the Front Right Spacer.
-4x 40mm long Aluminium cilinders with a diameter of 30mm
-2x M8 locking nut, eg. DIN 934 (make sure they're not too "high"! DIN 934 or similar height will fit nicely!)
-2x normal M8 nuts, not too high but in general you'll have to worry about that with normal M8 nuts
-4x washer outer diameter 21mm, inner diameter 8mm, thickness: 1mm. Or make them yourself while lathing the Spacers like I did.
-4x skateboard wheels, axle inner diameter between 8 and 14mm, nut area inner diameter 21.5mm, deepness of nut area inner diameter: 10mm
-2x treaded M8 bar, approx. 400mm long
-a metal saw to saw the Bar to the correct length
-a calliper or other necessary measurement tools
-Locktite, very strong permanent one like Loktite 601


reference photos:


11059293_10203900458511651_5966194544765041591_o.jpg


12359856_10203900458471650_2528986815730418053_n.jpg


12391013_10203900458551652_1971833400281164317_n.jpg


12249859_10203900459071665_559803360738801236_n.jpg



Assembly photo's

right front side
12375276_10203900459911686_8508252148555523065_o.jpg


left front side
12374905_10203900459951687_3373247123252916043_o.jpg


left rear side
12339558_10203900460031689_1675096963742380382_o.jpg


right rear side
12339213_10203900460271695_5734498114558433001_o.jpg



Specific pictures of spacers


right front side
12374905_10203900459591678_4416590819654037640_o.jpg


left rear side
12362891_10203900459671680_2446267637038749757_o.jpg



working sheets
complete with tolerances and everything you or your lathe-engineer will need to make you the thingies. Note that the inner diameter of 8mm is a reference to whatever real diameter YOUR M8 tread is. The given dimensions are optimal and tolerances indicate how you can derive from them.

washers

11051751_10203915988339887_2782679098309792473_o.jpg


front right spacer
12363217_10203915988019879_6474312854880864002_o.jpg


front left spacer
12371188_10203915987939877_8481043680509771926_o.jpg


rear right spacer
12378124_10203915988299886_1659180159649243696_o.jpg


rear left spacer
12357076_10203915987979878_7511578533365433544_o.jpg


Continued in next post
 
Machined Products
Using the drawing I gave your result should look like these. I found that none of the chamfers were really necessary, I'll leave it up to you whether you make them or not.

washers
1455893_10203915991939977_8300841627262664546_n.jpg

washers in the wheels
12390940_10203915991299961_4926021405953175201_n.jpg


front right spacer
12341595_10203915991259960_1861771649082291919_n.jpg

12342750_10203915991419964_1336386673895303863_n.jpg


front left spacer
12342862_10203915991859975_553855145751517899_n.jpg

12347889_10203915991899976_3785272162325283135_n.jpg


rear right spacer
1546208_10203915990819949_2383353222206015307_n.jpg

12376053_10203915990859950_6804613970176071097_n.jpg


rear left spacer
12241609_10203915990779948_302941572526393142_n.jpg

12390972_10203915990419939_2256644011889603368_n.jpg


together they should look like the ones down below
12342334_10203915990339937_385025357552374874_n.jpg

12376027_10203915990379938_4228218453997545484_n.jpg

12347889_10203915992619994_8761029458690700685_n.jpg

12341427_10203915992659995_4318970546371769770_n.jpg



Finalising

Next, apply locktite to one end of the treaded M8 bars, and put the M8 nut (nomal one) on it. Do the same for the other bar. Let them dry, alternatively you could just weld them together.
After you're done, assemble everything to this bar in this order: Washer-Skateboard wheel-Left Spacer-motorcycle-Right Spacer-skateboard wheel-washer-M8 locking nut.
When done with both axles count the amount of "treads" that are excess beyond the edge of the M8 locking nut. Then take everything apart again and saw the threaded M8 from the point it became too long.
If your M8 locking nut or threaded bar is not at least 2mm shorter than the edge of the skateboard wheel, it could grind the pavement in a crash resulting in breaking the parts.
Once your done assemble everything back together and it should look like the following

front right spacer
10308874_10203915993140007_2707916608041558694_n.jpg


front left spacer
12391439_10203915993220009_4482693265047375297_n.jpg


rear right spacer
12390861_10203915992699996_1925060863434604803_n.jpg


rear left spacer
12341256_10203915993180008_615476291897975865_n.jpg



Endresult
12374739_10203916087462365_325319565941731073_o.jpg

12348033_10203916087422364_4204961967831423972_n.jpg


I finished them, they work like a charm!

The fitment is perfect and I updated all worksheets and so forth accordingly. Luckily I haven't crash-tested them yet :cheers:

Anyone is free to copy them for their own bike, questions are always welcome, just ask.

disclaimer: I'm not responsible for any faults, injury, damage ect. acquired during the fabrication/use of these axle sliders. Make them at your own risk, if you don't think you can, let someone else do it. As a old Dutch saying: "use your farmer's wit" which means always use common sense, basic knowledge and logic. If your make these too, enjoy, hope they prove good to you! :banana:
 
I made some for my son's 125 after he crashed on a slippery road. No machining needed here ( except for the skate wheels I had to drill to fit in the big nuts ) , I have the M8 bars and nuts ready but... he does not want them , he told me he does not plan to crash anymore, sait they don't have them on race bike, the bike looks like crap with that on, etc... So here they are on the workbench lol

Nice tutorial by the way Holland
 
I made some for my son's 125 after he crashed on a slippery road. No machining needed here ( except for the skate wheels I had to drill to fit in the big nuts ) , I have the M8 bars and nuts ready but... he does not want them , he told me he does not plan to crash anymore, sait they don't have them on race bike, the bike looks like crap with that on, etc... So here they are on the workbench lol

Nice tutorial by the way Holland

Ah! Stubborn teenagers! :D
I don't plan on chrashing either but yeah, better be safe than sorry. Laying the bike down on the asphalt is a part of the learning process I'd say. Personally I think they look neat, but maybe your son will come around. ;)

Thanks!
 
I went down today and can conform these axle sliders did their job. All the parts they're supposed to protect were undamaged while making a lowsider on the right side at 60km/h. The axle sliders themselves are still fine as well, only the rear skateboard wheel is considerably slimmer.
 
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