250-500cc 1st oil change. A few questions....

I've done a few easy break in rides and it's time to change the oil.

Does anyone know the oil drain bolt torque spec? 09' wr300.

Is the capacity 800ml? I believe this to be true.
Would like some clarification as I cannot figure out how to convert .7 Imp Qts to ML/CC's.

Thx!

According to Google

.7 Imperial quarts = 795.566079 milliliters

Thank you! Google was not kind to me today.

I'm all done.
I torqued it to.... when it felt tight.
I dont like that.
Is there an actual torque value for the drain bolt? Anyone? Bueller?

I've got the service manual on CD for the '08 WR250,...(because Hall's didn't have the '09 CDs yet, and I had to have something to go by)

Oil Drain Plug (M20 X 1.5) 19.6-23.5 Nm 14.5-17.3 ft/lbs.


Which just serves to prove HuskyDude right,.................

Not that much difference.

I was just gonna take out the little phillips head level check screw in the clutch cover, just above the shifter,...and just pour slowly until it started to seep out the check hole, with the bike verticle on a stand.
Is that no good?

I did that the first time. After that I knew how much oil to use and never removed the oil check bolt again.

I dont like using check bolts for whatever reason. Creature of habit, I suppose
I like to drain, pour in the correct amount and repeat every 10hrs.

Thanks for the info!

14.5-17.3 ft/lb (174 - 207in/lb) <----- info for the next uneducated sap

That is especially understandable if you have ever owned a pre-'04 KTM 300 EXC. Up thru '03 the oil check bolts were notorious for stripping the threads out of the clutch cover.

I don't particularly like the oil check screw in my new WR300 either.
Why the heck did it have to be a stupid phillips head screw? A nice little 8mm head bolt would've been much more durable. Anybody ever changed over to a bolt? I'm thinking of taking my screw down to FastenAll and trying to match something up. Eventually I will inevitably booger up that phillips head!

My Yamaha takes 750ML's of trans oil, but using the check hole only nets around 600ML. Great engineering job there Yami :bonk:
That's the real reason I dont bother with check holes.


I hear you on the philips head deal. It's just a matter of time before it starts stripping. Matching it up with a bolt should be easy.

While we're griping..... I cannot stand the philips screws they use on carb bowls & carb boots. I always replace them with stainless allen head bolts. Much easier to live with!

Absolutely,...agreed 100%.
Thanks for the reminder,...I need to pick up some of those too!
I've got a feeling I'm gonna have to do some jetting tinkering on this thing before long. The warmer it gets outside the more this puppy wants to burble and sputter right off idle. I'd say I'm gonna have that float bowl off soon changing pilots. I hope this thing doesn't drive me nuts with that Mikuni.

BTW, when you do have to deal with a philips I've got a pretty neat little tip for ya,...if you don't already know about it.
Dip the tip of your screwdriver in some valve grinding compound first. The abrasives in the compound will give the screwdriver unreal cohesion and "traction" in the philips head of the screw, and it won't slip out and ream the head nearly as easy.
Try it next time you need to top off your front brake master cylinder, you'll like it I promise.

Since Italy uses the metric system the best way to do conversions is to convert the metric number to a US number via Google conversion. Forget about converting the UK Imperial numbers to US numbers since the Imperial numbers are sometimes wrong and it's just better to not do a double conversion. Europe uses a "," where we use a "." so l0,80 is .8 liters or 800 ml which equals 27.05 US ounces.

BTW, my Owner's Guide says the fuel capacity is 2.9 Imperial gallons which would equal 3.48 US gallons. Unless the tank is different for the US and UK it really holds l 9,5 or 9.5 liters which equals 2.5 US gallons.

Go here and download convert. The thing rocks, converts anything you want and is accurate.