I have a 1996 WXC 610, which I have only ridden twice in the two years I have owned it, most recently this past weekend. Both times I have ridden it, it blows an alarming amount of oil out the vent hose on the cylinder head valve cover, with oil running down the frame, engine, smoking on the exhaust headers. I was thinking it had too much oil, but the oil level appears to be right where the manual recommends. I have read that this is not uncommon on these Husky/Husaberg style motors of the 90's, but was wondering if there is any fixes, or ways to reduce the issue.
There should be a plastic collector bottle that the vent hose runs into and it should be vented into the frame at the top above the cylinder. The oil can collect in the bottle at high rpms and then return to the motor when it slows down. The bottle would be clamped to the frame with a hose clamp.
Not sure of the exact quantity of oil I put it. My manual (actually a 94 610 manual) says the proper oil level is adjacent to where the bottom of filler hole casting, meets the flush part of the side case - which appears to be roughly the centerline of the crankshaft, when looking into the filler hole (which is also the proper oil level for my VOR and Husaberg).
I just looked at the 95 manual and its says 1.6 lts, Page 10, I know it is a German manual but it clearly says 1.6 lts. http://docs.wavenetworks.us/manuals//1995 TE 350-410 TE-TC 610 Repair.pdf I would change the oil and put in exactly 1.6lts and see if there is any difference. If it is blowing oil out the breather it could be a blown head gasket or maybe the reed valve. Cheers, Dave.
I am planning on inspecting the reed valve, and installing the 1.6L per manual specs - however, does anyone have experience installing a one-way check valve in the vent hose? Researching on other sites, I have found that Husabergs have a common problem blowing oil out the vent hose as well, but with more catastrophic consequences given their small 1L oil capacity. The Husaberg guys run a check valve which prevents the oil from blowing out (NAPA #2-29000). Although I have not made much progress concerning my oiling issue - I do believe I have made some progress in curing other issues. My bike has had problems with intermittent dying, ever since I have owned it. I have posted on this forum before, concerning the issue. After completely going through the fuel system, I started on the electrical. I ohm tested the stator last week and it is within spec. But while inspecting the wiring, I discovered my spark plug wire had a spot where the insulation was worn pretty bad, from rubbing in between the frame and fuel tank. I also discovered the jumper ground wire (Ducati ignition) had a spot completely worn through, with the copper wire rubbing on the the steering head of the frame. I replaced the jumper ground wire with new 10 gauge wire (original appeared to be around 16ga) with much larger mounting eyes (probably 200-300% more contact area). I also replaced the original spark plug wire with an NGK racing wire. I am now getting a very healthy spark. I hope to get around to the oiling issues within the next week or so, then test ride.
Hi, Sounds like you are getting on top of it. Don't forget this 4 stroke engine has been around a long time, a very good design, I have never heard of the problem you have, so there has to be something not right.
Last night I drained the oil and inspected the reed valve. My catch funnel fell over and some oil ran onto the floor, so I was not able to measure exactly how much oil came out of it - but it very well may have been slightly overfilled. I did not remove the clutch, but was able to get a visual on the reed valve with an LED light, by looking behind the clutch basket- I did not observe any cracks/fraying around the edges. New problem: When removing/reinstalling the clutch cover, the shifter spring became dislodged - now the shifter does not work. The spring in question is shown below (not my bike, just a pic I found online to demonstrate) - it is the spring with 2 legs, and goes around the male end of the shifter mechanism. After installing/reinstalling the clutch covers 7-8 times and the shifter not working, I noted the above spring was loose and free, with both legs to the left of the position shown above. I am not sure how it became dislodged, especially since I did not remove the clutch. The manuals do not show how to reinstall - simply state that assembly is the reverse of disassembly.... One of the legs on my spring is about a 1/4 inch shorter than the other - looking at the pic of the spring on the parts fiche, it looks like the legs should be equal length. (1) Does anyone know for sure, whether the legs are different lengths - or the same? Perhaps the tip of the leg broke? That would likely cause the dislodging... I have not been able to find any pics online to verify. (2) Does anyone know how to install this spring properly?
Well, I found a pic online of a new spring with the applicable part # 1611692-01: Looks like one of my legs may have broke, if this is what it should look like.
The legs are crossed over the round end of the selector, then a pin on the side cover goes between them and that is how the selector returns to a centered location.
Well, got home this evening and after measuring the legs on my spring, it does not appear to be broken, just bent. Shifter worked perfectly fine before I removed the cover. Not sure what happened to cause it to bend, but I will be ordering a new one from Hall's.
Hi, It has been a long time since I have had to remove the cover on my bike. I do know it is easy to muck it up. Hopefully someone will chime in to help you.
I believe the info Rancher provided answered my question as far as how it is set up - thanks. Halls shows the spring is only $3.50, so it was not a costly error luckily.
Ha ha, you guessed right. Said $3.50 on the website, but when I checked this morning it is $22 - but, they do have it in stock.
Well, on Saturday I finally got the bike all back together. I installed the new shifter spring, and I went ahead and pulled the clutch and installed a new reed valve as well. The old reed valve had no visible damage, but once the new one was installed, it did seem like it created more vacuum than the old one did - perhaps the old one was fatigued. I filled the motor with 1.6 liters of oil - based on the oil level with 1.6L, I am certain I had previously overfilled it. It started 2nd kick, and felt like it was running stronger than it ever has, just riding in the back yard. It was consistently starting in 1-2 kicks and just running great in general. It was not blowing oil, in the 40 minutes or so of running it. So I took it with me yesterday to the local track, to put some time on it. Started 2nd kick. I took it out on the track, and made it one corner shy of completing the first lap - and it died. 200 kicks later, never even acted like it wanted to start. After getting the bike home, it has no spark. So I guess now I am going to begin inspecting the electrical components. This bike really has me baffled.
Pull the flywheel and check the magnet ring set, it has probably moved. Very common issue on ducati ignitions.
Hi, The trouble is the windings have poor quality wire and age doesn't help. The magnet belt on the flywheel can slip, the glue is failing. Unless you know what you are looking for you won't be able to tell if the belt has slipped. Both need to be checked and repaired.
My flywheel has quite a bit of corrosion. I hit the nut lightly with an impact, but no movement. I'm soaking it with PB Blaster. Does the nut have normal threads? Righty tighty, lefty loosey? I tested the stator again, measured 4.3 ohms on the white and green wires and 5.1 on the red and black. The only manual I could find with specs is a 99/00, which shows 4.5 and 5.7. So my readings are slightly low, but I am also not sure if the 99/00 would be the same as my 96 with the Ducati ignition.
No, It could be a left hand thread, I haven't had one apart for a while, my 82 WR250 definitely left hand thread. Hopefully someone else will chime in!
