1987 430 barn find. Need some help.

Ok so this is my second husky project. Fist of all I need help identifying what model cr or xc exct.... The title says 87 tr? I picked this bike up for 600.00. Could not start the bike. it was not getting fuel but has spark. I am rebuilding the carb. The kicker was not catching and the water pump leaking. The oil was mildly milky. Hoping its just the water pump seal. but I know these covers can go bad and leak into the case. I got the cover off to reveal the problem. The mechanism that pushes out to catch the gear is chewed up, along with the gear. also the bolts to the clutch were loose and rubing on the case. I am going to start hunting these down tomorrow. Also a few of the screws that hold the cover on to the main case are striped. Does anyone have any experience on tapping to a bigger size screw to the main case? I am ordering, water pump, seal and gasket, case gasket, clutch set, the gear and kick starter mechanism, Carb kit, and air filter. Any info or advice would help

the kicker is a black magic work of art till you figure it out. 1. you don't need to pull it apart to get the clutch case off, it and the gear lever / water pump stay in the case. the po has probably pulled the kick lever off the spline unwinding the spring etc etc. he probably got it back together but on the wrong spline (1 too many) which causes all sorts of carnage, catching the clutch gear etc and grabbing the pawl as the motor stops. sounds like he has just slapped it back together when he saw what happened!! ill also guess he has damaged the gasket and then over tightened the screws trying to stop it leaking.
2. your cover should be ok and a new seal "should" fix it but you will need to pull it apart and check the seal surfaces and replace the two bearings and seal. cheap as...huqvarnaparts.com has everything you need as well as a model identifier from the frame number and the engine no.

3. replace the two needle rollers in the kicker and the idler while its in bits....

there are a number of thread fixes, and better qualified people should advise than me ...(glue it and sell on is NOT an option ..)

check the exhaust for blockages, the inlet manifold or splits and cracks...

check the swingarm for cracks around the pivots, also the rear engine mount can wear the inserts that go in the engine cases.

great bike, will impress when you get her going, well worth the effort...

Guy at my local (former) husky shop talks about Time Sert for thread repair. The set is expensive, but the repair is very stable. I've personally never ponied up to get a set, so can't say much for how the case takes them.

Also, just so it's out there, make sure you're getting M6 bolts for the cover. Who knows if you're (ehhh...) lucky (??), maybe they had the cover on there with 1/4 inch and when they stripped out, they left enough thread behind for an M6 to still catch. I pulled a fair bit of SAE off of my last project.

The clutch bolts sure left a pretty pattern on the inside of your clutch cover, PO definitely did you a favor there

Subframe looks like WR (or maybe XC), Headlight would also point you in that direction. If there's a voltage regulator on the bike, we could definitely say it's either XC or WR. Maybe just look at the frame #, based on one of the aforementioned sources, CP means CR, WP means WR, XP means XC.

Overall bike looks good, hopefully the guy who was in your clutch cover stayed away from the rest of the engine.

I would recommend getting an M6 x 1.00 helicoil repair kit and do the case mounting holes correctly. It is not expensive and you can get engine sets of case bolts even from www.dcvmx.com as well as a few eBay stores. Check your engine number at www.husqvarna-parts.com

I agree, the bike looks pretty good over all. It is definitely worth fixing. The frame & rear shock spring look "clean". You will love this bike when it's done. Great bikes that are stable & very forgiving.

-if the kicker "tab" is beat up like that, need to inspect the idler gear it engages. likely it is also all bitched up.
-some major water contamination going on there..hopefully its just the seal..
-need to inspect linkage and swingarm pivot. these get dried out and the swinger bearings being dry WILL crack the swingarm if it isnt already. if these are kept greased and moving ok, i dont think they ever crack.

as others have said, these are great bikes, and super solid if you know how to treat them..we can help with whatever questions you have.

do yourself a favor before you get it running and are tempted to ride it
pull the swingarm bolt and check the bearings and races
if they are damaged they will destroy the swingarm
good find cool bike

I second the motion to repair the case screws with m6 helicoil. They're reasonably priced and I've had excellent luck repairing many stripped fastener holes in aluminum cases and fork tubes. However, if you ever run into an application that requires a lot of torque then I would go with the time-sert repair as Eric The Leg pointed out. Years ago I used a Time-sert to repair a damaged head bolt hole in a big block Chevy V-8 and had no problem reaching 75 ft. lbs. of torque on the bolt, plus the head never developed any problems afterwards.

At one time long ago I owned a couple of late 80's big bore Husky's and loved riding them. Great bikes.

Thanks for all the advice, I will put the put the swing arm bearings on order also, I dont like taking chances. Also will get that m6 x1.00 helicoil pack, the exhaust defiantly needs some work though yes. The gear that it engages I do want to replace, I cant find it online. Though. Going to try halls tomorrow. Hopefully they can help. From the research Im doing it looks like it will be the hard part to find. Appreciate the info guys. Thank you.

I vote for time certs if you plan on removing and tightenting multiple times, like a clutch cover. You can buy just the M6 time serts don't have to buy the whole array. Mine came with the proper drill bit, tap and a stabilizer tube that helps you keep the bits perpendicular to the hole. Pretty cool system. As with most tools you will use it more than you think.

Regarding fixing the stripped case screw holes, these are generally not surrounded by much case material for the first 10 threads give or take. So whatever method you use to fix it be sure to allow enough material surrounding the hole to retain integrity or get very long inserts that will extend into the heart of the case.

http://www.hva-factory.com/bottom-e...start-coarse-pitch-new-161127001-16-11-270-01

http://www.ktm-parts.com/AOMC/product/161127001

Thanks for the links, Got it all ordered. Going to pull top end off, Guess I should while it is in pieces, and check to see if it is standard bore. Does anyone have any experience with adding updated reeds to these machines? V-force?

mate its a 430....how much more power do you need?

and while your gettin parts get at least one extra little finger thingy for the starter i think Justin called it a tab 430s like to snack on those from time to time

yeah,,, but,,,,
MOOOORE
if you want to wake up the full potential knife port and work on the transfer ports, better transition to a VERY powerful midrange

MOOOORE ....

what was I thinking .....

i guess it would be a "pawl"?

Yeah, and there's no "r" in pawl. Nobody ever called me on that in another thread, but I'm sure they were all laughing at me in their heads (also it's a lot easier to find if you spell it right).

Part #161168001, $22.50 at halls-cycles.com last time I priced them out. <- Note - 1985/86 part #, you may want to verify to be sure, but I think that's what fits your 87 too.

get the spring as well, they can get caught in the system and then hold the pawl in.