1981 430XC kick start, idler and clutch question

I just had my clutch cover welded today due to a crack and will be in the process of re-installing it as soon as the gasket gets here. But some new questions have come up.
First question is, with the clutch cover off, even though I hold the short shaft of the kick start gear solid, I can still wiggle (rock) the gear back and forth. I can do the same with the idler gear, the one that sits partially behind the clutch basket. Is this normal? I plan on replacing the needle bearings for peace of mind.
Second question is how can I tell if I have the 1983 upgraded cases that were mentioned in another thread? The reason I ask is because this motor seems to be a mix of parts. Bike is titled as an 1981. It has a 1982 head and cylinder. Motor appears to have been stroked with a now welded crank. The shifter shaft has the later style (1983) two o-rings instead of one. Numbers on the motor are 2087 1545. I've included a picture of the shaft/bearing behind the clutch.
Third question. Does anyone know the actual size of the o-rings for the shift shaft and kick starter? The size is not listed in the parts manual.

Thank you for any advice.

The earlier case half does not have tapped holes that help mount the intermediate shaft.

The little gear on the back of the clutch has next to no teeth on it ? Well it looks that way to me . Looks like it's gone past the rooted stage where the teeth look pointed to the stage where all the pointed bits have broken off and it's just nubby .
It's the 886 gear . Common problem .
One theory is the long plastic needle bearing inside the clutch lets it wobble too much and to replace it with two shorter needle bearings

gear on back of basket goes because Husky never heat treated them well///thats the bottom line

I've seen this wear on the gear on the rear of the clutch basket before. Finding a good clutch basket with little wear is rare. Doing the heat treating is a double edge sword too little it wears too much it's more brittle. It's a fine line to get it right. I wonder if using a light weight oil makes it wear more. A thicker weight oil has more cushion. The loose bearing fit can add to the problem. I wish I was working now to do a Rockwell test on the hardness.

Everytime I see a case opened up I get impressed on how much engineering goes into these engines and transmissions. All the manufacturing to make it too.

I went ahead and ordered both needle bearings and new o-rings for both the shift shaft and kick start shaft from husqvarna-parts. I also ordered a new bearing for the clutch because it was the plastic cage type. Hopefully the new bearings will "stiffen" the assembly up. I also ordered the replacement aluminum clutch cover from hva-factory as well. The teeth on the clutch basket appear ok to me and it is the 886 gear. I included a better picture now that I have things apart.

Oh yea they are fine . Now I see it . The first picture they looked rounded right off . But yea you're on the right track to doing everything to look after that gear

the one thing that gets overlooked is the level
if not full the bearings run dry and do a bunch of damage
it is to the bottom of the fill hole angle where it meets the flat surface of the cover
1 quart is not enough by the way

Right. It's close to 1500cc. A good feature of this engine.

Are you guys using the steel cage clutch bearing from Suzuki?

i have some husky steel one piece bearings..i got one from husqvarnaparts but i guess the supply is getting pretty dry on those..

I bought 5 last month