1973 Husqvarna 250WR

In a moment of weakness I bought this 250WR out of the Lehigh Valley PA. It is pretty cooked. Missing the pipe,carb, rear axle and brake plate, petcock and I'm sure other things. I got the motor on the bench and pulled the head, the cylinder don't look good. Took about 10 tons to push the piston all the way down and then was able to remove the cylinder, pretty crusty. The crank is worse!!. Got the cases split and pulled the crank, OH BOY!! I bought a used crank from ebay that has a good right stub and got a new Vintco rod kit. Looks like I got to the case in time to stop the rot, it's not too bad. The trans and clutch look to be in good condition and she has her 6 speed. So the motor should be done soon and on to the frame and fixin's of which there are alot. It came with a plastic mid 70s tank, kinda cool and not damaged that I can see. Some pics. Chris

More pics!

Save it!!!

So I bought a rod kit from Vintco for a 1973Wr and it arrived today. It's too short for my cylinder. Here's a quick measurement page. Could this have a 250 mag cylinder? Was there a difference in the length of the rod between the 73 250wr and the 74 250 mag motor. Not sure what I should do, although I'll need the longer rod to make my setup work. Mayby the pistons are a different length, i do not know. Looking for a little HELP!!! Chris

Call Forest Stahl. He will have your answer. (765) 284-7653 or (765) 212-8427.

I just spoke to him about month ago.

He knows those years bikes blindfolded.

On side note! Gees I thought I got some toughy's! Here you go again and when are you gonna stop with more Husky's? Teasin!

So I called Forrest today and he said the short 117.5 rod is for the 250Wr, the piston is taller from wrist pin center to crown. For more bottom end! The longer rod 125mm has a shorter piston wrist pin center to crown and is for the 250Cr. For higher revs! Both in 1973. I HOPE I GOT THAT RIGHT. And thanks to Forrest Stahl. He says he's 79 but sounds very strong. I sent the short rod and my origjnal rusted pile back to Richard at Vintco, he said they will make it right. Hope so, cause the rest of the bike is a mess!

Good deal!

So I got a message to call, Vintco and got a hold of Richard. He said my rod is for a 250 mag. I have to measure the piston height to see which to buy. Why would someone put a mag rod and probably piston in this motor? Is there a power gain is the cylinder the same height as the 73 250wr, or was it a this is what i got situation? I thought the 74 mag had a completly different motor? Looks like you can swap things around,but arnt the mag parts harder to find and again what about power gains. Sorry for all the questions. I'll deal with it when I get back home. Chris

For what it's worth Forrest is the best around. He was a huge help to me on my 73 WR250. He's the best, and when he decides to hang it up, I don't know who will be able to take over. He was always there for me, for parts and advice. I'm pretty sure the 73 WR was a one year jug. Luckily Forrest had one, cuz mine was toast. Good luck with yours!! I love mine!!
Although mine looks more like a CR, it started as a WR with a CR tank.
Here's my 'before' pic.

I am rebuilding a 1971 cr 250 engine, it needed a rod and piston. What I have found out is that on the 1973 cr they put in a longer rod and moved the pin up in the piston to accommodate that longer rod while keeping the boost port. In 1974 the cr went to a reed valve. According to the specs in the Vintco catalog the wr was a year later in some of those changes. Being that short rod pistons are hard to find and that the 1973 pistons are almost impossible to find I am going to use the long Husky rod and a 1973 1974 Honda cr/mt piston. I will have to machine my own boost port hole and machine the inside of the piston bosses so that I can use the husky thrust washers and have the correct clearance. You can find very good dimensional drawings of the pistons and rods in the online Vintco catalog.

You can also find some info here. https://www.facebook.com/groups/488495707863731/permalink/3374403455939594

Please be sure to open the comments as there are photos of different pistons that illustrate the pin heights in the different pistons.

I got both high and low pistons with the long and short rods, now I'm looking for a right stub for the early femsa!! Anyone got one to sell I'm interested!! Chris

So I have been getting things together for this bike and got a tank on ebay for151$ Super cheap since everyone else is selling husky tanks for a hell of a lot. Said it was a 70s steel tank then it shows and is an 75 aluminum tank with the burgandy color under red and orange. Winning!!! The cylinder has been bored and I am going to finish the frame disassembly this weekend and weld on the frame where it is f...ed up. This will get the full Treatment to be as nice as I can make It. SO stay tuned!! Chris

Nice ding in the tank.

Got her torn down, only a couple of things of note. Has an aftermarket chain tensioner, the rear shock got hammered and I think the frame shouldn't have horns. Chris

More on the tensioner. Also it has DID rims, I don't think that is right?

So I got the wheels ready for disassembly and found the rear rim is spoked ok but the front was the wrong rim and the spokes used were 4 clover but look wrong for the hub. I'll try to find some original Akronts for the rebuild. But the manual is not clear on the brand of rim used for this bike so I will default to Akronts. Any advice is welcome!!Chris

Chris the 73 250WR should have the Akront hi ridge "mud catcher" aluminum rims.

Marty

Thanks Marty , that's what I thought after looking at pics on the interweb. Chris

Due to the Husky spoke pattern, it might be easier to purchase a complete wheel to ensure you are getting the correct rim that will lace up properly - i.e. conical hub vs full width hub rim and spoke angle. Also important to note, there is a right and left side of the rim for Husky Akronts. Seen too many bikes laced the wrong way and people wonder why spokes are loosening and/or breaking.



Since you already have the MK manual, you probably are already aware - pages WC-8 though WC-13 are great for a proper lacing guide.

Thanks Vinskord, I have a set from my 73 360rt. They are the alum as someone changed them from the original steel. I'll compare the hubs before disassembly. Looks like you've seen the rodeo before. You would think it would make the installer scratch his head when they look like that!! Chris